Richard Gear has a head to toe look at winter clothing and adds his top tips for effectively winterising the summer mountaineer
The weather's rolling in again so, if you haven't done it already,
it's time to winterise yourself and your kit before it all gets
horribly uncomfortable. We asked that nice man Richard Gear to put
together his top tips for surviving off UK winter conditions from top
to toe. Here's what the old loon came up with.
Oh, don't forget that different people run at different
temperatures, so what works for one person may be too warm or too
cold for another, so don't blame us if your sombrero's out of its
depth in a Cairngorm blizzard...
Headwear
You lose loads of heat through your nut - don't worry about
percentages, lots of them include exhaled breath as well so 'loads'
will do. Like other parts of your body, windproofing is a must as is
covering your ears. A hood over a simple fleece beenie works for
some, but leaves you vulnerable if you choose not to wear a
shell.
If you run cold, a mountain cap-style insulated cap with peak and
ear pieces works well and the peak will stop rain running down your
face. They are very warm though and may be too hot for fast movers,
plus the ear flaps make it hard to hear anything that's said to
you.
For faster, hotter movers, a thin windproof fleece beenie is a
good compromise between protection and cooling and those, or similar
Powerstretch items, can also be worn under a climbing helmet.
In really extreme conditions, balaclavas either fleece or
windproof, or Neoprene masks all work well under a hood, but bear in
mind that hearing may be compromised - and you need some sort of vent
for breathing or rapid condensation will be the order of the day.
Top tip In serious winter conditions, always carry a spare
hat. It could save your life. Fleeces with integral hoods save you
carrying a spare.
Waterproof Shells
At a pinch most breathable summer waterproofs will also do the job
in winter, but remember you may need more space to layer underneath,
particularly if you run cool. Hoods, and particularly peaks, get a
winter battering though.
Make sure you can batten everything down securely and the neck
fastening will still work when the hood opening's tightened down as
far as it'll go. Look for a design that will protect the side of your
face from icy side winds and driven sleet as much as possible - if
you have a big nose, it may be time for a rinoplasty - and check out
the peak for stiffness or it will simply distort in high winds.
Top tip The best hoods - Mountain Equipment and Arcteryx
are both good - will move with your head improving visibility.
Waterproof Pants
Winter legwear takes a battering, particularly where crampons get
involved. You'll be using it more than in summer, so look for tougher
fabrics. Key points to watch out for are knee articulation (stretch
panels can work well), a waist fastening that will stop the pants
from slipping down or braces and tough crampon patch reinforcements
on the lower legs to minimise gashing from the spiky metal things.
Bibs / salopettes work well, but be aware that the extra layer of
fabric over the trunk can compromise breathability.
Top tip Ankle fastenings can be a pain, look for adjustable
closures that seal well but without too much bulk. If you climb, a
fly will make your life easier, trust us.
Baselayers
The main function of the layer next to your skin is to wick
moisure away rather than to keep you warm, that's down to your fleece
or insulating kit, so don't feel you need special winter weight base
kit. We like Lowe's Dry Flo and Polartec Powerdry, but there are
other good options out there and we've recently discovered the joys
of Smartwool. Long-sleeved tops with a deep zip for cooling is our
design of choice.
Top tip In our experience, thinner base layers generally
wick more effectively than thick ones, though they aren't quite as
warm.
Insulation Layers
The insulating layer provides warmth by trapping warm air close to
your body. If you run hot, a 100-weight microfleece may be all you
need when on the move, if you run cooler, you may need a warmer,
200-weight fleece. Ultrafleece or Karisma is a good compromise being
about halfway between the two in warmth, but more wind resistant so
you can wear it for longer before you need a wind- or waterproof
layer over the top.
The new, lightweight, synthetically insulated tops like TNF's
Redpoint are also effective and have the advantage of being
windproof. They can also be layered over the top of other garments for
stops, which is handy.
Top tip Fleeces insulate more effectively when they're
close fitting, so don't be tempted by a baggy fashion cut which will
waste heat through convection.
Down
One word, 'don't'. Down jackets don't like the wet, UK winter
conditions are damp. The combination is a soggy mess. If you need a
big, insulating duvet jacket, think synthetic.
Top tip Just say no (except in the pub) a spare fleece makes
more sense.
Legwear
We've already covered overtrousers, but getting winter legwear
right is a bit of an enigma. You're looking for warm, but not too
warm, combined with wind and water resistance, good breathability and
freedom of movement. We particularly like the Schoeller stretch
fabrics, Powerstretch leggings, ME's G2 and, in really cold
conditions, Ultrafleece Salopettes - the current version has a neat
stretch knee that allows high stepping moves if needed. Normal fleece
is warm, but not really wind resistant enough for us.
Top tip Ankle closures are top for keeping draughts off
your calves...
Soft Shell
You could write whole books about soft shells from traditional
Buffalo pile-pertex tops through to the latest, whizz bang offerings
from the likes of Patagonia and Gore. Many of them work really
well in British winter conditions, particularly quick-drying
pile-Pertex combinations. A really good softshell will shed enough
water to be wearable in all but the worst rain and breathe much more
effectively than even the most breathable waterproofs. The sheer
number of types on the market is confusing though, so read the
reviews and choose carefully.
Top tip You'll still need a waterproof shell for deluge
days, but you should be able to make do with a lightweight version,
which will save you weight and bulk.
On Your Feet
As far as mountain footwear goes, most boots suitable for
three-season mountain walking in the UK will also do the job in
winter until that is, it starts snowing, or rather until you get the
sort of compacted snow on the ground that calls for crampons. As a
rule 3/4-season boots are okay for occasional crampon use and their
greater sole flex makes them better for walking, while dedicated
four-season boots are better for sustained cramponing, where they
give a more stable platform for the spiky metal things.
Top tip Socks? Thick, warm and woolly work best when the
going gets cold, but don't cram extra-thick ones on then find that
they're too tight and restrict your circulation, your feet will
actually feel colder and in extreme cases you increase the risk of
frostbite.
Hands
Ultimately mittens are warmer than gloves because they make your
hands into a plate and reduce the surface area available to radiate
heat. However you'll lose a lot of dexterity, which isn't a problem
when you're just walking along, but is more of a hassle when you need
to read a map, tie a knot, open a zip or what have you.
Gloves are less warm, but with practice you can master most easy
movements. In either case, some sort of windproof and water-resistant
shell over a fleece-type inner glove works well for most people. For
less extreme weather, windproof fleece is great until it gets really
damp and soggy. If you do go for a lined glove, choose one with a
removable liner - permanently fixed inners take ages to dry out
properly.
Top tip Don't underestimate shrunken matted wool
Dachstein-type mitts. In seriously cold conditions they form a
carapace of ice and become virtually windproof plus they're very warm
and relatively cheap.
Winter Day Sacs
We wrote a whole feature on how to choose a winter day sac just
the other month, click
here to read it.
