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Buyers' Guide - Mountain Trousers

Pants, trousers or legwear, we help you choose the best leg coverings :-)


Posted: 6 September 2007
by Jon

Of course you can wear shorts all year round, if that's your thing, but most mountain walkers and scramblers will be back to long trousers non-summer months and strangely, they're hard things to get right. Here are our tips to help you sort out the pants from the pantaloons...


First Principles

Just as with your upper half, you can layer on your legs using water or windproof overtrousers to cover your basic legwear, however because your legs are constantly moving, many walkers and climbers find overtrousers restrictive so are looking for a day-long solution that combines ease of movement, breathability and basic weather protection.

Does such a thing exist? The good news is that softshell fabrics arguably work better for legwear than anywhere else making the 21st Century the golden age of mountain trousers :-)


Cut

Cut's always going to be a personal issue, but what you're after is something that's snug enough not to billow around irritatingly, but also designed to allow freedom of movement for high steps and those dramatic bridging moves on easy scrambles.

With a stretch fabric, that's not an issue, but elsewhere look for articulated knees, perhaps with stretch panels and crotch areas cut to allow movement. It may look odd, but when buying, try stretching, moving, lifting your knees high and make sure there's no obstruction to mobility.

Also make sure the waist is snug enough to stay put - belts or adjusters can help here - and that there's nothing that's going to rub unpleasantly under a hip-belt or harness.

Articulated knees and stretch fabrics are great for mobility.
Poor cut can rub and impede movement, especially on scrambles.


Features First...

There are plenty of extras out there in pants land. Some are genuinely useful, others are really just gimmicks.

Vents can be really good for cooling off and increase the range of useability. We like easy to use zip vents in the thigh area which make a real difference to comfort when things get hot.

Fastenings at the waist come in different shapes and sizes. Press studs sometimes pop open and even rip out, simply buttons work well, but can also come unstitched, Velcro tends to eat things. All are viable, but arguably best backed up with a belt.

Ankle adjustment can be handy, particularly if you're someone who like a snig fit around your boots for minimal flapping and stone ingress. Drawcords and velcro tab adjustment can both work fine. Zip-out stone gaiters are a fave with some US brands.

Vents are great for extending the temperature range of mountain pants.
More features add weight and complexity.


Fabric Choice

A few years back, everyone simply wore Ronhill Tracksters with overtrousers when things got messy. Fortunately things have moved on both aesthetically and functionally.

Stretchy tracksuits Tracksters and similar are still out there, they're simple and good for mobility but have very limited wind and water resistance or thermal value and tend to bag badly when wet. A better cold weather alternative is Powerstretch fleece, but for most things, there are better options.

Microfibres Classic trekking pants generally made from a Nylon or similar microfibre, or perhaps polycotton are great in fine weather. The close weave ups wind resistance, they breathe acceptably and can be hardwearing. Water resistance isn't great however and many are cut in a disconcerting 'dad pants' manner.

Stretch Softshell Schoeller-type stretch softshell fabrics make brilliant all-round mountain pants. Built-in stretch tends to give good mobility and the closely woven fabric gives good weather protection, but without spoililng breathability. With a decent DWR they'll also shrug off anything short of really heavy rain.

Windproof Softshell If you want total windproofing and even more water resistance, fabrics like Windstopper softshell and eVent windproof are close to be watertight and should mean you can live happily without overtrousers virtually all year round - thought the seams will leak eventually. The downside is reduced breathability. PowerShield is a good compromise offering 98 per-cent windproofing but with better breathability than the 100 per-cent windproof fabrics. Vents make a lot of sense with trousers made from these fabrics.

Softshell fabrics have revolutionised legwear.
More protection tends to mean reduced breathability.


The Perfect Pant

Pants, or trousers, call them what you want, but the good news is that there's now far more choice than ever before. For all-year, all-round use for an averagely hot sort of mountain walker and scrambler, we like Schoeller-type fabrics.

The stretch allows a closer cut without compromising mobility, they offer good weather protection, which means you rarely need overtrousers, but still breathe really well, so you tend not to overheat.

Choose cut and features carefully and your legwear dilemmas could be over, just fit and forget until the end of the day.

At last, breathability, cut and protection in one.
More expensive than the good old Trackster days...


More Help And Advice

This article should have given you some basic pointers. The good news is that there's a load more advice on OUTDOORSmagic:

Ask on the gear forum about general issues or specific items.

Check the member reviews section for user experiences of kit.

See OM editorial reviews on the front of the site for our impressions.

Ask Richard Gear if you have a specific question you need answering.


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While I heartily endorse your suggestion of Schoeller Dryskin and similar (earlier this year had a fortnight wandering around high bits of Norway in some ME Liskamms, and I ski-tour in MEC Powershield salopettes), I think Tracksters still have their place, and I still wear mine more on the hill than the soft-shells because on many days all I'll get from the "better" alternative is more weight and more heat than I need.

While it's easy to form the impression that it always rains, actually the case that it often doesn't, or doesn't rain much, in which case the speed of drying one gets from Tracksters is as much rain protection as you need, and if it isn't that cold then there's typically enough wind proofing too. Especially for those of us that tend to overheat rather than freeze, outside of winter conditions there is still much to recommend Tracksters, and it's not just the cheapness. I wear them by preference of finding them best for the job on many days, especially fast moving days or ones where it's warm but not warm enough for shorts, and I have tried and have access to plenty of options.

On to hiking legwear generally, what is it about pockets? Why are we expected to need so many of them? One of the few things I marked the Liskamms down for in my OM review was the completely pointless thigh pocket. Good for you for pointing out more "features" is not necessarily better, though a shame you couldn't point out pockets are a bit over-valued by the marketing departments!

Pete.


Posted: 06/09/2007 at 13:51

With respect to thigh pockets, I like them, especially on hill trousers.  I tend to mainly navigate with a printed A4 map (either Memory Map or a scan of my OS map).  This I fold in to a reasonable size and keep in the thigh pocket of my trousers.  I find this has several advantages over other systems:

1) I use the map a lot more than if it is in my pack.  Important as I now take a lot more interest in navigation since taking my ML.  I very rarely now get "locationally challenged", even in very poor vis on unfamilar ground.

2) It doesn't flap around like most map cases when worn on the body or take up a hand most of the time, which is my issue with most map cases.

3) I scribble notes appropriate to the walk on the print out, but do not damage my map.

4) I always know exactly where my map is - right thigh pocket.

5) I can keep a 50K and 25K print of my walk in a very small and light package - each has their advantages.

 Similarly I keep a hankie in my left hand normal trouser pocket (I wear glasses, so having a cloth to hand is a Good Thing in British weather).  Right hand pocket is for when I have temporarily taken my headband off on days when I suffer cold ears now and again.

 Sounds a bit regimented, but if I always keep things like this in the same place I can find them without thinking - important when I am cold, exhausted and not wanting to concentrate 100% at the end of a long day.  And it never does to be hunting around looking for something in your pockets or sack when you're out with clients - they'll start to think you're only human and wonder why they are paying you!

Now if you were talking about rear pockets, I would agree.  They are either too high to use with a pack or low enough to get everything squashed when you sit down (or both!).

Have fun,

Paul


Posted: 10/09/2007 at 15:50

While I can appreciate your scheme for maps, why would it work inherently differently if you kept your folded A4 a little less folded up in a chest pocket, maybe right next to your compass and/or GPS?

If you put on overtrousers you'll lose easy access to it , and if it rains hard and you don't then (a) your map will get soaked and (b) your trousers will take longer to dry out from all the pocket material.  Anything much more than a single sheet of paper will start reducing freedom of movement: maybe not much, but why reduce it at all?

 I like a hanky in a "normal" pocket too, and some form of handwarmer is good if it's at all chilly, but I don't see much use for mucjh beyond a couple of "normal" pockets.

 I like thigh pockets on combats for DIY/gardening etc. as places to keep tools handy, but that's uncomfy walking much.  I like extra security pockets for day to day wear, but on the hill my money and cards and keys can just go in the bottom of the sack as I can't see me needing them there...

 Pete.


Posted: 10/09/2007 at 16:08

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