Climbing Helmets Get Lighter For 2013

New climbing helmets from Black Diamond and Petzl set new standards of lightweight head protection.


Posted: 30 July 2012
by Jon

Light: Black Diamond's new Vapor - around 180g thanks to a Kevlar/carbon fibre composite shell. Not only light, but low profile too.
Lighhter: Petzl's Sirocco uses a monobloc construction made totally from expanded polypropylene (EPP),
Magnetic-fastening buckles makes for one-handed simplicity.
Not the prettiest helmet out there though...

One notable development at this year's OutDoor European trade show was the launch of not just one, but two improbably lightweight climbing helmets for 2013, one from US brand Black Diamond - more about their other new kit shortly - and one from French hardware specialist, Petzl.

New Black Diamond Vapor - 180g

The Vapor was one of the first stand-out products we spotted in Germany. It's a super high-tec, super-lightweight climbing helmet which Black Diamond dubs: 'the helmet for people who don't want to wear a helmet'.

Aimed primarily at rock climbers and having passed all UIAA safety standards, the helmet is a minimalist take on the hard-shell/shock absorbing liner concept, an injection-moulded EPS foam liner covered by a load-spreading Kevlar/carbon composite hard outer shell layer.

The use of high tech materials means that while it's still strong enough to meet industry standards, the liner and and shell are both incredibly thin, with the result that not only does the helmet weigh something in the 180g region, it's also very low profile making it unobtrusive in use and also more accommodating when worn under a hood.

Once it's available in early 2013, the Vapor will retail for around £120 in the UK.

New Petzl Sirocco

And just when you thought the Vapor was pretty light, along come French brand Petzl with their new climbing helmet, the Sirocco, which takes an even more radical approach to head protection and weighs in at a ridiculously light 145g...

That's just insane and to achieve that figure, Petzl has taken a radical new approach to helmet construction. Instead of using conventional ABS (most mountaineering helmets, like the Ecrin for example) or bike-style expanded polystyrene with a polycarbonate shell like Petzl's popular Meteor design, the new helmet simple uses expanded polypropylene (EPP) on its own in what the brand calls a 'monobloc construction' with vents moulded into the shell.

That in itself saves weight, but Petzl has shaved further grammage by using special narrow webbing for cradle and adjustment straps. Finally, the design also uses a new, patented magnetic buckle which allows the chin-strap to be attached with one hand. 

The helmet will be available in two sizes and one colour, the orange hue pictured. It also has fittings to accept headtorches and Petzl's VIZION visor. And of course it meets all CE/UIAA standards.

Sub-200g helmets, like buses eh? None at all, then two of them come along all at once...


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Discuss this story

A real Beauty and the Beast there - I quite fancy the new Black Diamond helment, especially if it sits around your head, rather than 'on' it like most current climbing lids. The Petzl looks like a ghastly, modern take on those old 80's bike helmets that are happily consigned to the same dustbin as paintsplash lycra cycling outfits.

Posted: 01/08/2012 at 15:24

On looks, I agree. However, the Black Diamond helmet is mostly holes... the ones in the side are somewhat alarming and if you were, say, climbing slate and wiggling in some gear with your head tilted sideways, you could get a bit of slate big enough to cause some serious damage to go through the gaps! Okay, so it sounds unlikely, but when I saw that helmet it felt like they'd perhaps chopped the bits away where they aren't needed to pass the safety standards. In reality, I'm sure it's safe, but the Petzl one is a lot more innovative.

Posted: 01/08/2012 at 20:14

Talkback: Climbing Helmets Get Lighter For 2013


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