Scramble Like A Pro

Scrambling's a pretty natural activity, really it's just easy climbing and most of the same general rules apply, but there are still a few tricks and tips you can use to make things easier for yourself on the steeper stuff. So hold on tight, don't look down and here's the OUTDOORSmagic scrambling guide. Oh...

Disclaimer If you trash yourself, it isn't our fault. It just means you haven't followed the instructions properly. Orright?

The Basics

Route Finding

Most of the best lines are natural - most people can follow a knife-edge ridge for example, but every so often things get complicated and indistinct. So how do you decide which way to go? First, don't assume that what looks easiest actually is. On Crib Goch for example, the paths round the Pinnacles are loose and dangerous, it's much better to go direct.

Don't just head up willy nilly, follow the line up and estimate whether it's still do-able higher up. Have a look round corners, sometimes there are easier ways tucked around the corner. On the North Ridge of Tryfan for example, there's almost always a better alternative. On popular scrambles, worn rock will often give the game away.

Oh, one more thing. Don't be put off by the look of a section before you're on it. Often scrambles viewed from a distance look harder due to foreshortening, which makes the rock seem steeper.

The Mental Side - Don't Panic!!!

Yeah, yeah. You're looking for a balance between knowing that you're in a potentially dangerous situation and consequently being prudent and turning into an anxiety-racked gibbering wreck. Try to relax and focus on what you're doing rather than worry about what might, but probably won't happen. Concentrate, get absorbed in the moves and the holds, stay smooth.

If you do start to panic, stop and take some deep breaths, focus. Sometimes squeezing your handholds really hard, then relaxing consciously can help. If exposure is getting to you - ie: there are big drops - it sometimes helps to imagine that the drop simply isn't there. Sounds mad, but if you could do the moves easily four foot off the ground, why can't you do them now?

Other People

Don't get tricked into thinking that because another party is having problems on a route, you will to. Let's be brutal, they might simply be rubbish or on the wrong line. Or inexperienced. Conversely, they might be really good, so don't assume that you can follow their line. Make your own decisions based on your own judgement and ability.

The Scrambling Process

The more you scramble, the better you'll get. If you climb, even if it's just on an indoor wall, scrambling moves will seem straightforward, but these few basic tips could make your life easier...

Three Points of Contact

The oldest one in the book, but a goody. Always move one limb at a time and make sure the others are securely planted or 'fastened' to the rock. It's sometimes tempting to rush, but better to be slightly slower but smoother and more secure.

Trust Your Feet

Even on hard scrambles, most of your weight should be on your feet, you shouldn't need to pull yourself up with your hands and arms. There are good reasons for this - your legs are designed to lift your bodyweight, your arms aren't.

Don't Use Your Knees

It's tempting, but standing up onto a knee is a bad move. Anywhere you can reach with a knee, you can place a foot, which is better. Why? Apart from not wearing out your pants, you can't stand up on a knee without throwing yourself into off-balance hell. Don't do it kids.

Test The Holds

On popular scrambles, most rock should be sound, if only because someone else will have knocked the loose bits off, but don't count on it. Before trusting a hold, make sure it's sound. You'lll get a sixth sense for it eventually, but give footholds a quick kick or weight them gently before trusting them and similarly give handholds a gentle tug too. Sometimes you'll encounter spikes and flakes that are loose, but will still take a pull in one direction. You can use them, but be aware of their limitations.

Don't panic and grab for holds. They're not always as good as they look from below.

Ghylls...

Scrambling on Lake District waterfalls - 'ghylls' - is highly entertaining, but watch out for green, slimey rock. Often rock which is permanently underwater and washed by strong flow is the cleanest and grippiest, even though it's wet. Strange but true.

Use Handrails

On knife-edge ridges, you can often use footholds below the crest and use the very top of the ridge as a secure handrail. The higher the foot holds, the more awkward this gets with the ultimate being an inelegant crouching crawl along the top of the ridge.

Look For Intermediate Holds

If you find yourself struggling to take an awkward huge high step at the very limit of your mobility, have a closer look for an intermediate foothold that will let you move up more easily onto the bigger hold above. It's easy to get distracted by the really big, obvious holds and ignore smaller, but just as useful ones. They may even be blocked out of view by your own feet.

Use The Outside of Your Foot

If you're square on to the rock and can't step high enough to reach the next hold, use the outside edge of your foot on the lower foot hold. You'll gain a little more distance which can be the difference between reaching the upper hold and not. You'll also find your body is more balanced in this position.

Bridge Out

If you find youself in a small corner or open chimney, it's tempting to get pulled into the corner where things feel steep, constricted and off balance. It's often more secure to look for holds to the side or even behind you that'll let you get into a stable, safe, bridging position where your weight is over your feet and not trying to pull you over backwards. It's also an ideal stance for a rest, though it can feel exposed...

Slabs

If you have to make a slabby move, look closely at the rock for small ripples or nicks you can use then stand on them. Keep your feet flat so there's as much rubber in contact with the rock as possible, unless there's a defined edge you can stand on. Keep your palms flat on the rock and pad on up.

Downclimbing

Getting down is always less natural than climbing up. On easy-ish terrain you can often see better by facing outwards, but if it's steep, twist round so you can face into the rock. Look for positive holds to use and don't be tempted to drop onto holds just out of your reach - look for intermediate holds and move your hands down first. Look for handholds out to the side. And don't jump, it'll end in tears.

It's often hard to pick out holds from above, so if your mate is already below you, ask them to point out less obvious one that you may have missed. They can even guide your foot onto them.

Cracks

We're not about to get into talking about jamming techniques, but cracks can often make good footholds, just jam your boot in, preferably above a point where the crack narrows and wedge it in there. Make sure you can get it out afterwards though...

Got any more top tips?

Why not post them on the forum thread linked below?