What is scrambling? What do the grades mean? Where to go and a guide to what the guide-book jargon really means...
Scrambling - what is it and some tips on how to do it...
Funny really, 'scrambling' is only two letters away from rambling,
but potentially a load more serious. So what is it? It's pretty much
the grey area where walking and climbing meet. Easy scrambles are
little more than walks, hard ones are effectively easy climbs.
If you want a simple definition, scrambling starts at the point
where you need to start using your hands to make progress. Simple eh?
One definition you sometimes hear is that scrambling is 'climbing
without ropes'. No, no, no... You won't need a rope on most easy
scrambles, but depending on how experienced and competent you are, on
a lot of the stuff at the harder end of the spectrum and on easier
conditions on easier, but exposed routes, some people will definitely
want a rope.
Why
do it then?
Often the best and most inspirational routes up a mountain are
scrambles - narrow ridges, dank chimneys (what? Ed.) blocky,
interesting buttresses. A lot of the classic UK hill days are
scramble based, with the best known being stuff like the Snowdon
Horseshoe. Easy scrambling is a taste of climbing, but without
needing the technical knowledge and equipment. I hate the word, but
it's 'fun'.
Grades
There are a number of dedicated scrambling guides on the market -
see
some examples at amazon - which generally grade routes on a scale
of 1 to 3 with an optional 3(S) to denote really serious stuff. Don't
get too hung up on grades and remember that they're only a guide.
Striding Edge on Helvellyn and Crib Goch on Snowdon are both classic
grade ones, but the latter is much more exposed and potentially
serious. Anyway, here's our guide to what they mean:
Grade 1 Don't need any specialist mountaineering skills so
technically easy and can usually be done without a rope. This doesn't
mean they're not dangerous, but they're the best starting point. In
winter generally much more serious.
Grade 2 More serious. You'll need technical skills and
probably a rope in anything other than ideal conditions - smaller
holds and steeper ground are the norm. Not a good place for a
novice.
Grade 3 Like grade 2, but with pitches of proper rock
climbing where you'll need to know about technical ropework and how
to protect yourself. Best done in dry conditions unless you're a
confident, experienced climber. If you're a novice, don't even think
about these. 3(S) used in some guides, denotes particularly serious
3s.
The
Jargon
Scrambling guides, like climbing ones, have developed a range of
descriptive phrases which don't necessarily mean what they appear
to:
'Exposed' - huge, eff-off drops beneath your feet.
'Airy' - the drops are not just beneath your feet but all around
as well.
'Interesting' - desperate and frightening.
'Committing' - your chances of being able to downclimb this
section are nil.
'Polished' - the holds are like banana skins, particularly when
wet
'A Classic' - insanely busy, especially in summer.
'Somewhat loose' - a pile of loose, semo-vertical choss, with
loads of loose holds.
'Desperate' - go home now.
'Slightly damp' - you will be climbing a waterfall.
'Insecure' - pant wetting.
'Choice of routes' - there is no obvious line.
Where
to go?
Most UK mountain areas have scrambles and guide books to match -
see above and some of the articles on the site. Real scrambling
freaks will want to head for Scotland and its big alpine ridges like
the Aonach Eagach in Glencoe, Curved Ridge on the Buchaille, the
Torridonian peaks, An Teallach in the far north and, most epic of
all, the Velcro-like gabbro of the Cuillin Ridge in Skye. To get an
idea of which scrambles other OM users like, check out this
forum thread for detailed suggestions.
How
to survive...
Scrambling is potentially dangerous, particularly because most
easy scrambles are done unroped and without a helmet. It's very
important not to fall off... No, really. That's why on harder
scrambles and in bad conditions a rope and knowing how to use it are
essential. This isn't the place to explain ropework, but if you want
to learn, check our your local climbing club or climbing wall - see
the BMC web site -
or take a course at a reputable outdoor centre like Plas y Brenin or
Glenmore Lodge. See our links section for more
details.
Rock
Skills
See our separate article on scrambling skills, which we're about
to write now, honest. Ditto for gear choice. Coming soon.
