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When It All Goes Pear Shaped...

How to cope when good days go bad and how to stop it happening in the first place.


Posted: 12 February 2009
by Jon

In the current winter conditions, it's all too easy to find yourself in a crisis situation - winter mountains are cold and potentially dangerous places that for all their stunning beauty, can also be lethal if you lack the skills and experience to cope with the conditions.

We can't hope to tell you everything you need to know, but here are a few pointers to help you keep the balance in your favour.


Before You Go

ice axePreparation and planning are vital. Check weather forecasts and, if you're heading out on Scottish hills, have a look at the latest avalance warnings. If the forecast is bad then consider changing your route accordingly or perhaps even cancelling the day. If winter conditions are forecast,. make sure you all have the right clothing and equipment, which may include axe and crampons.

Have a think in advance about contingency plans. Are there points where you can cut the day short if needed? Is there a bothy en route and if so, is it definitely still there? Think about how experienced and strong your party is and whether it's up to what you're planning.

Remember that walking on snow slows you down and wearing crampons can take another 10 per-cent off your speed, so don't bite off more than you can chew.

Mountain weather: www.mwis.org.uk
Avalanche information: www.sais.gov.uk
Lakes Weatherline: www.lake-district.gov.uk


Tell Someone Where You've Gone

Ideally you should leave your route details with a reliable friend or contact and agree a plan of action if you don't return by a certain time. That might mean if you're not back by, say, 9 o'clock, they alert Mountain Rescue. Be specific.

Ask Instructor Girl - What to do if your friend doesn't come off the hill?

Things To Tale With You...

There's an old adage that if you carry enough kit to survive a benightment, then you'll probably move so slowly that you'll be benighted. There's a little bit of truth in that, but in winter, there are things that could save your life and are well worth the extra weight.

whistleA survival bag or a group shelter are essential. Our favourite is the Blizzard Bag which combines wind and water proofing with insulation. Spare insulation layers could save your life, perhaps an extra fleece or a filled garment and a spare hat. Some groups carry a sleeping bag just in case. Spare food is crucial.

A head torch and whistle for emergency use are essential. Add in a First Aid kit spare map, just in case, compass and a mobile phone. With the latter, bear in mind that in mountain areas, reception can be very patchy, so don't rely on the phone. And don't forget to charge it in advance, especially as batteries lose power in very cold conditions.

Ask Instructor Girl - What do I need in my first aid kit?
Buyers' Guide - Survival Aids
OM Basics - What To Carry In Your Winter Pack



Hypothemia and Cold

Hypothermia is arguably the biggest danger in winter conditions. In simple terms, if you lose more heat than you're generating, eventually your core body temperature will start to drop, you become uncoordinated, clumsy, slur your words and eventually lose consciousness and die.

survival shelterOften hypothermic people will deny that there's a problem which makes it essential to keep a close eye on one another - uncontrollable shivering is an early sign that things aren't right. If you're alone, you need to be particularly careful as impaired judgement makes it hard to make decisions.

If you're with someone who goes hypothermic, stop immediately, get them into some kind of shelter and re-warm using warm, dry clothing, food and hot drinks. Put them in a sleeping bag if you have one and insulate them from the ground. If they recover, you may be able to walk them out carefully. Alternatively it may be time to call for outside assistance.

OM Health and Fitness - Coping With Cold


In An Accident Situation

first aid kitIf one of your party has an accident, then you have decisions to make - stay calm and make a careful assessment of the situation after treating the casualty and making him or her as warm and comfortable as possible. You need to consider the state of the rest of the party, terrain, weather conditions and so on before deciding on a course of action.

You may be able to help the casualty out on your own or with the assistance of other walkers and climbers in the area or you may need to call on outside assistance from Mountain Rescue.


Getting Help

Mobile phones have made it much easier to call Mountain Rescue, simply dial 999 and insulated jacketask for the police who will then alert the appropriate rescue team. Then leave your phone on so you can be contacted if needed. You can't rely on a mobile phone though, reception in mountains is patchy and batteries can die in the cold.

Signals are another alternative - whistle blasts or torch flashes repeated six times at minute intervals are an internationally recognised signal.

In some situations, you may want to send members of your party to call help. If you do that, ideally the party should comprise two people and you shouldn't leave the casualty alone, if there is one.

Once you have called Mountain Rescue, you should tell them exactly where you are and then stay put so they can find you as easily as possible. A GPS will allow you to be really exact, so if you have one, make sure you know how to find a GR for your location.

MRC Advice - www.mountain.rescue.org.uk


When Things Get Really Bad...

Often in winter conditions, the crucial decision is whether to stop and hunker down in a snow hole or survival bag / shelter or press on in the hope of walking out. There's no hard survival bagand fast rule, but many hypothermia casualties turn out to have been carrying everything they needed to survive, but for some reason - possibly impaired judgment due to the cold - didn't use it.

Bear in mind that overnight bivvying in winter can be dangerous in itself, but if you do take the decision to take shelter, stay out of the wind as far as possible, put on dry spare clothes, hats and so on and use your pack to insulate yourself from the cold ground.

Group bivvy shelters work well by sharing body heat and are also good for morale. Spare food will fuel your metabolism and keep you warm. It may not be luxurious, but it's better than dying from hypothermia and if your standby plan works, your contact should alert Mountain Rescue when you fail to return. Alternatively, if conditions improve, you may be able to walk out under your own steam.


More Information

We'd always suggest that you get professional training if you can. Winter courses from the likes of Plas y Brenin and Glenmore Lodge will give you the skills to move safely and efficiently on winter terrain. There are also specialist mountain first aid courses that are well worth a look.

Finally, in print, the classic Mountaincraft and Leadership by Eric Langmuir has a lot of good basic information.








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Hey Guys,

Based on the thread above.....

You may or may not have heard of the big rescue in the Wicklow Mountains this week. 2 Climbers were stuck overnight on a well known Wicklow Mountain called Lugnaquilla or Lug as its known by us outdoorsie types. It was a big search operation involving a number of MRT's from Ireland and the RAFMRT from RAF Valley in Wales.

As usual the media sensationalized the whole thing. The guys in question posted what actually happened in the fourms on www.climbing.ie and I just thought I'd pass it on to you. It makes for a good read and some lessons can be learned. Even these experienced climbers said they learned a lesson or two.

 here is goes:

Evenin' all!
So do ye want the truth or the reports from the print media?
The story goes like this....
That morn, we parked up at Fentons in Imaal to approach the North prision, flags were flying so I had a chat to the Army boys who rightly suggested we not go in there as they're firing the 50's and 105's (range of 6 miles)  into the glen. A ricochet from any of those can easily end up in the north prision which increases the grade of the winter climbs in there to a level I'm unwilling to climb at!
So, off we go leaving one van behind to head in the Ow valley and see whats happening on the south prision.
Snow waist deep in places made the approach across the valley a pain in the ass as ye can imagine. It's not fun postholing up to the waist in powder but we pressed on breaking trail across with the crags of the south prision looking very inviting for a bit of mixed fun. We had blue skies all the way and all was looking perfect. A damned sight better than the 60mph winds and blizzard that Delthedub and myself battled only two weeks previously climbing the haston line and hidden chimney on corrie an tsneachta in Scotland. I thought that the belays on those were the clodest I'd ever been...little did I know... C



Posted: 13/02/2009 at 02:34

We geared up at the bottom of a line to the left of the central gully (dont know if it's been climbed before, but it looked like an adventure) and off we went. The climb itself was fun but had little in the way of sustained interest, good belays and ran out the last pitch. I'd like to go back in soon to do some of the other lines there, short, but sweet looking. Good neve and hoar on rock....! A rare beast in Wicklow.
When we topped out, It was getting dark and the cloud had come in thick and fast creating white out conditions.The plan then was to take a bearing to the summit cairn and from there easily find our way off (Lug is practically my back garden, I've been up there solo more times than I can remember) or follow the line of the south prision to get back down into the Ow valley.
We took out the map to take a bearing and the wind snatched it back down into the valley....
Mistake number 1: We had only one map between us....
Mistake number 2: Fimilarity breeds contempt...I underestimated the mountain, thinking, it's only Lug, I've been up here a hundred times since I was a kid, I'll have no probs getting us off this, dark or not. Any other hill, be it the Alps, Scotland or wherever I'd have had more respect and for the conditions and had a second map, a bivvy bag and a foil blanket with me. I always carry them in winter.
We were travelling blind now not able to tell where we were trying to follow the line of the south prision to find a safe gully to descend, each time I approached the edge to have a look, I couldn't tell if I was about to walk over a two foot snow bank or a drop to the bottom of the prision. None of the fimilar landmarks I'd normally use were there, hollows were filled level with snow, rock formations were hidden, so I had no reference points from which to navigate my way out.
So, there we were wandering in the growing darkness looking at a blank canvass thinking, this isnt looking good.
As the cold and night grew, a phone call came in from the army barracks in the glen of Imaal, where Keith had left his bus (advert on the side has his logo and phone number) asking if we were still ok? We said, yeah, grand.
We pressed on still roped up in the wind and snow to try and figure where the hell we now were when we sat down to assess the situation and said fuck it, we're gonna have to call the MRT and let them know whats happening.
We found a spot where we both had good phone coverage and made the call to Ronan Lenihan from the Imaal rescue team.
All that we knew was we were sitting on a south facing slope, about 35 degrees facing a drop, the ground above us seemed to rise to a plateau, but we didnt know if it was a col or what part of the hill we sitting on.


Posted: 13/02/2009 at 02:35

We tried to dig a snow hole, but where we were, there wasnt enough snow to dig into. Not wanting to loose vital phone contact with the rescue squads, we found a rock sticking up about two foot out of the snow, scooped out a shallow indent on the lee side and insulated the ground using the ropes and stuffing from the rucksacks. Rucksacks were used to protect our backs from the biting winds. We built up a v small wind break on the rock with snow, put on every layer we had (thank fuck for patagonia belay jacket..it's the way forward!!!) and prepared to spend the night exposed on the hill.
During the night, we could hear helicopters close by but couldnt see them (visiblity was down to less than 5 metres), the mountain rescue lads and ladies were asking us to watch for flares they were sending up, but it was futile.
I lay there blowing the whistle in an sos and no answer...All we could do was speak to the rescue crews, and try to keep wriggling toes and feet and stay awake.
The MRT battled through the night, never giving up. They maintained contact every half hour to monitor us. Keith was growing sleepy and saying that he couldn't feel his feet anymore, we shared the last of our emergency food supplies (moro bars are great frozen by the way) and kept moving to try to keep warm.
It was an experience I'm in no hurry to repeat.
The rescue crews explained that they were having a nightmare trying to get to us with the prevailing conditions. We contacted our families to tell them not to worry that we were absolutely fine up here...what else are you gonna say to people who are worried about you?
After a long night, day finally broke and we listened to the helicopters. We were told that the rangers had been dispatched on fast ropes out of a helicopter to find us along with 50 MRT heads including an RAF sea-king Helicopter with full time MRT crew from Wales.
At 11 o clock, I phoned the MRT and said, look it's daylight, I'm going to move us and get us out of there and down. They asked that we not move, especially as Keith at that ponit couldnt feel his legs from the knees down. I explained that I'd wait until two o clock and after that, we'd have to move. Having no food or drink left, I didnt fancy our chances during a second night out and was anxious to get moving. I attempted to short rope Keith down the slope in front of us until it became clear that it was too steep to descend. I blew the whistle again. Keith said he heard a voice in the distance. I ignored him because he had also just told me he'd seen giant bats flying towards him and I kinda figured the hypothermia had kicked in hard.
As it happens, the man was right. My phone rang and it was the MRT to say a team just below us could hear the whistle!

Posted: 13/02/2009 at 02:36

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