Okay, it's winter. I know cos the goldfish bowl's done that
paperweight thing again - they never work properly afterwards -
but how do you stop yourself going the same way? Here's some quick
fire advice on the extras you need if you're going out in the winter
mountains.
Head
We won't bore you with that heat loss stat', but in winter, you need
to get it covered. A fleece hat or balaclava under a waterproof hood
is one option, a hat cap like the Lowe Mountain Cap with a waterproof
breathable outer is another, especially if you dislike hoods. Always
carry a spare. Without an insulating layer on your head you lose heat
fast.
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Hip
Flasks Look good in films
or brandished with flat caps,but alcohol on the hill is a
duff idea. First, it opens up the capiliaries close to the
skin, makling you feel warm, but pumping out body heat like
a radiator. Secondly, it's not exactly going to improve your
decision making, so save it till the end of the
day.
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Face
Balaclavas protect the face pretty well when worn with a good,
cinched down hood, but take a look at the Neoprene wet-suit material
face masks as well - great for protecting your lower face from driven
snow and wind.
Hands
Mitts are warmer as they make your fingers into a plate, reducing
the surface area available to lose heat, gloves are less efficient,
but more dextrous, particularly if you're climbing and need to fiddle
with gear and ropes. Again look for an insulating, fleecy lining
coupled with a wind and / or waterproof shell. Again, always carry a
spare set in case you lose a glove or mitt.
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What's Wind
Chill? Your body stays
warm by heating a layer of air close to it. The warmer air's
trapped by insulating layers like fleece and keeps you warm.
Without a windproofing layer though, the wind will drive off
the warmed air so your body is constantly reheating the air
close to it and losing heat. Wind chill drops the effective
temperature in line with wind speed - the faster the wind,
the greater the chill factor. Hence the need for shell
garments to trap warm air within your insulating
layers.
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Legs
A lot of walkers and climbers dislike overtrousers, but without
them or some form of wind resistant trouser or salopette, you can
lose large amounts of heat, particularly from your thighs. Start with
a thermal base layer that will trap heat close to the skin as well as
wicking moisture away. On top of that, you'll want some sort of
mid-layer - standard fleece is warm but not particularly wind
resistant and needs a shell layer over the top, variants like
Ultrafleece have a denser weave and are more wind resistant, so you
can often get away without an overtrouser.
Salopettes cover the small of your back and are generally snugger
than straight trousers, but in either case, if you're going to need
to don or remove your trousers while wearing crampons, you'll need
full length zips. Finally, think about calls of nature, particularly
if you're going to be wearing a harness.
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Top
Tip Don't you go where the
huskies go and don't you eat that yellow snow. Sound advice
from Frank Zappa
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Torso
As with legs you need to combine base layers with an insulating
layer and shell. It's much easier to regulate your upper body
temperature than fiddle around with your leg wear and even in winter,
you'll get hot walking up steep slopes. Often a full weight fleece is
simply too warm and we'd suggest looking at a 100 weight microfleece
for active use and carrying a standard fleece for stops. If it gets
really cold you can swap them over and wear the standard fleece while
moving. Alternatively try teaming the baselayer with a shell jacket
to deflect wind.
Don't forget you can use your heat as a temperature regulator -
take it off when you're warm, stick it back on if you feel
chilly.
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Hooded
Fleeces There are a few
technical fleeces which come with hoods attached. The best
of the bunch is by Montane but Karrimor and Mountain
Equipment also produce them. Best thing about them is that
you can't lose a hood, so there's no need to carry a spare.
Down side is that they always seem to get wet in drizzle
unless you hide them away and that you can't wear a base
layer and a hat simulataneously if your hat is also your
fleece.
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Jackets
and Hoods It's in winter when a shell jacket's hood becomes
really important. Look for one that moves with your head, gives some
protection to your face when snow's driven in from the side and seals
well enough around the face to keep draughts out. A good, stiff peak
also helps, but don't le tit blind you to the shape of the hood
overall. If you're going to be using a helmet, make sure the hood is
big enough, but also check that it'll work properly without the extra
bulk - a lot don't.
Lots of pockets are great for carrying the snacks you should be
eating all day, but make sure you can open and close zips and
fasteners with a gloved hand. If they don't have decent pull tags on
the fasteners, buy some thin climbing cord and fit your own.
Sorted.
Packs
For winter walking or mountaineering you'll need something in the
region of 40-45 litres - remember you'll be carrying spare clothing,
food and shell garments plus water and possibly axe and crampons, a
summer pack tends to be overwhelmed. Try not to leave the top lying
open when you stop or the snow'll be in it like a rat up a drain pipe
before melting moistly on your kit.
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Drinking
Just because it's cold, it doesn't mean you're not
losing fluids. You'll still sweat and in dry, cold
conditions, you're also losing water every time you exhale.
If you don't drink regularly your physical efficiency
degenerates and eventually you'll cramp and suffer from
other more severe problems.
One solution is a hydration system, wrap
the reservoir in spare clothing or other insulating material
and blow excess fluid back into the reservoir after drinking
to avoid freezing of the tube and bite valve. If you use a
water bottle, choose a wide-mouthed version which is less
likely to freeze up and invert it in your pack so ice forms
at the bottom of the bottle where it can't block the
opening.
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Gaiters
Great for stopping snow coming over the tops of your boots and
keeping the bottoms of your trousers dry plus preventing overtrousers
from flapping about and catching your crampons. Roll them down or
vent them with the zip when the snow's not deep and if you can't
stand the things, consider a pair of the mini 'stop-tous' ankle
gaiter variety that only cover the ankle. Make a tough, under-sole
retaining strap a priority unless you like replacing them every two
weeks. Yetis are pricey, but offer comprehensive protection.
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Yeti
Gaiters If you use Yeti
gaiters and have problems with them peeling back off the toe
of your boot, stick them down with a couple of blobs of
superglue and leave them fitted till the end of the
season.
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In
your pack As well as the spare clothing, hat and gloves, you'd be
daft to go out without a polythene survival bag. It may not be a
thing of beauty, but it could save your life, ditto an emergency
whistle and a head torch in case you get caught out in the dark.
If you're part of a group, make sure there's at least one spare
map in case of wind-generated disasters and preferably a compass as
well, on your own, carry both. An Ortlieb map case is the best way to
keep it dry.
A basic first aid kit can make life less painful and safer.
Finally if you own a mobile phone, it makes sense to pack it for
emergency use only. Remember that coverage is patchy in the hills so
you can't rely on it, but again, it could save your, or someone
else's life.
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Vacuum Flasks
Stainless steel vacuum flasks are
great for a morale boosting hot drink in the middle of a
cold day, but they're not cheap and they're not light.
Before use, fill them with boiling water to pre-warm the
metal then empty and fill with the drink of your
choice.
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Okay,
lecture over You can all go outside now and play, but don't come
running to the staff room if it all goes horribly wrong and you fall
over and graze your knees and stuff. Nothing to do with us yer
hear.