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Wind Up For Winter

Our tips for staying top on the winter hills


Posted: 16 January 2001
by Jon

Okay, it's winter. I know cos the goldfish bowl's done that paperweight thing again - they never work properly afterwards - but how do you stop yourself going the same way? Here's some quick fire advice on the extras you need if you're going out in the winter mountains.

Head We won't bore you with that heat loss stat', but in winter, you need to get it covered. A fleece hat or balaclava under a waterproof hood is one option, a hat cap like the Lowe Mountain Cap with a waterproof breathable outer is another, especially if you dislike hoods. Always carry a spare. Without an insulating layer on your head you lose heat fast.

Hip Flasks Look good in films or brandished with flat caps,but alcohol on the hill is a duff idea. First, it opens up the capiliaries close to the skin, makling you feel warm, but pumping out body heat like a radiator. Secondly, it's not exactly going to improve your decision making, so save it till the end of the day.

Face Balaclavas protect the face pretty well when worn with a good, cinched down hood, but take a look at the Neoprene wet-suit material face masks as well - great for protecting your lower face from driven snow and wind.

Hands Mitts are warmer as they make your fingers into a plate, reducing the surface area available to lose heat, gloves are less efficient, but more dextrous, particularly if you're climbing and need to fiddle with gear and ropes. Again look for an insulating, fleecy lining coupled with a wind and / or waterproof shell. Again, always carry a spare set in case you lose a glove or mitt.

What's Wind Chill? Your body stays warm by heating a layer of air close to it. The warmer air's trapped by insulating layers like fleece and keeps you warm. Without a windproofing layer though, the wind will drive off the warmed air so your body is constantly reheating the air close to it and losing heat. Wind chill drops the effective temperature in line with wind speed - the faster the wind, the greater the chill factor. Hence the need for shell garments to trap warm air within your insulating layers.

Legs A lot of walkers and climbers dislike overtrousers, but without them or some form of wind resistant trouser or salopette, you can lose large amounts of heat, particularly from your thighs. Start with a thermal base layer that will trap heat close to the skin as well as wicking moisture away. On top of that, you'll want some sort of mid-layer - standard fleece is warm but not particularly wind resistant and needs a shell layer over the top, variants like Ultrafleece have a denser weave and are more wind resistant, so you can often get away without an overtrouser.

Salopettes cover the small of your back and are generally snugger than straight trousers, but in either case, if you're going to need to don or remove your trousers while wearing crampons, you'll need full length zips. Finally, think about calls of nature, particularly if you're going to be wearing a harness.

Top Tip Don't you go where the huskies go and don't you eat that yellow snow. Sound advice from Frank Zappa

Torso As with legs you need to combine base layers with an insulating layer and shell. It's much easier to regulate your upper body temperature than fiddle around with your leg wear and even in winter, you'll get hot walking up steep slopes. Often a full weight fleece is simply too warm and we'd suggest looking at a 100 weight microfleece for active use and carrying a standard fleece for stops. If it gets really cold you can swap them over and wear the standard fleece while moving. Alternatively try teaming the baselayer with a shell jacket to deflect wind.

Don't forget you can use your heat as a temperature regulator - take it off when you're warm, stick it back on if you feel chilly.

Hooded Fleeces There are a few technical fleeces which come with hoods attached. The best of the bunch is by Montane but Karrimor and Mountain Equipment also produce them. Best thing about them is that you can't lose a hood, so there's no need to carry a spare. Down side is that they always seem to get wet in drizzle unless you hide them away and that you can't wear a base layer and a hat simulataneously if your hat is also your fleece.

Jackets and Hoods It's in winter when a shell jacket's hood becomes really important. Look for one that moves with your head, gives some protection to your face when snow's driven in from the side and seals well enough around the face to keep draughts out. A good, stiff peak also helps, but don't le tit blind you to the shape of the hood overall. If you're going to be using a helmet, make sure the hood is big enough, but also check that it'll work properly without the extra bulk - a lot don't.

Lots of pockets are great for carrying the snacks you should be eating all day, but make sure you can open and close zips and fasteners with a gloved hand. If they don't have decent pull tags on the fasteners, buy some thin climbing cord and fit your own. Sorted.

Packs For winter walking or mountaineering you'll need something in the region of 40-45 litres - remember you'll be carrying spare clothing, food and shell garments plus water and possibly axe and crampons, a summer pack tends to be overwhelmed. Try not to leave the top lying open when you stop or the snow'll be in it like a rat up a drain pipe before melting moistly on your kit.

Drinking Just because it's cold, it doesn't mean you're not losing fluids. You'll still sweat and in dry, cold conditions, you're also losing water every time you exhale. If you don't drink regularly your physical efficiency degenerates and eventually you'll cramp and suffer from other more severe problems.

One solution is a hydration system, wrap the reservoir in spare clothing or other insulating material and blow excess fluid back into the reservoir after drinking to avoid freezing of the tube and bite valve. If you use a water bottle, choose a wide-mouthed version which is less likely to freeze up and invert it in your pack so ice forms at the bottom of the bottle where it can't block the opening.

Gaiters Great for stopping snow coming over the tops of your boots and keeping the bottoms of your trousers dry plus preventing overtrousers from flapping about and catching your crampons. Roll them down or vent them with the zip when the snow's not deep and if you can't stand the things, consider a pair of the mini 'stop-tous' ankle gaiter variety that only cover the ankle. Make a tough, under-sole retaining strap a priority unless you like replacing them every two weeks. Yetis are pricey, but offer comprehensive protection.

Yeti Gaiters If you use Yeti gaiters and have problems with them peeling back off the toe of your boot, stick them down with a couple of blobs of superglue and leave them fitted till the end of the season.

In your pack As well as the spare clothing, hat and gloves, you'd be daft to go out without a polythene survival bag. It may not be a thing of beauty, but it could save your life, ditto an emergency whistle and a head torch in case you get caught out in the dark.

If you're part of a group, make sure there's at least one spare map in case of wind-generated disasters and preferably a compass as well, on your own, carry both. An Ortlieb map case is the best way to keep it dry.

A basic first aid kit can make life less painful and safer. Finally if you own a mobile phone, it makes sense to pack it for emergency use only. Remember that coverage is patchy in the hills so you can't rely on it, but again, it could save your, or someone else's life.

Vacuum Flasks Stainless steel vacuum flasks are great for a morale boosting hot drink in the middle of a cold day, but they're not cheap and they're not light. Before use, fill them with boiling water to pre-warm the metal then empty and fill with the drink of your choice.

Okay, lecture over You can all go outside now and play, but don't come running to the staff room if it all goes horribly wrong and you fall over and graze your knees and stuff. Nothing to do with us yer hear.


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