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Winter Skills Course Basics

Want to move like a gazelle in crampons and self arrest at the drop of a glove? You need a winter skills course, you do...


Posted: 6 November 2002
by Jon

There's nothing worse than sliding down a 45-degree snow slope and off a precipice, quite spoils your day it does.

Which is why, if you want to get out in full winter conditions - particularly north of the border - a professional winter skills course is a very good idea. The fact is that what's straightforward, if steep, hillwalking in summer often becomes mountaineering in winter

What Do They Teach You?

Winter courses exist at various levels from straight hillwalking skills, right up to specialist snow and ice climbing courses with various stages in between. A basic course should teach:

• what equipment and clothing you need for winter use
• crampon use - how to walk with spiky things on your feet and an axe in your hand
• self-arrest - how to stop yourself when it all goes horribly wrong
• winter navigation - remember land features are often covered in snow
• winter belaying techniques and basic ropework
• avalanche awareness

They'll also allow you to make your first faltering steps on snow and ice in a controlled environment, which is great for building confidence and giving you the self-belief to get out in winter on your own.

How Long?

There are basic weekend-long winter skills courses, but a week-long course is better. Skills like self-arrest need to be practiced until they're automatic and the more time you have to practice, the better you'll get. The same goes for navigation and movement on steep snow and ice. If a weekend's all you can manage, then that's how it is, but try thinking of the course as a mountain holiday.

When And Where?

Scotland is the most reliable UK area for consistent snow conditions, which is why many winter courses are based there. Even Plas y Brenin takes students up north on some of its courses and Glenmore Lodge is sited near the northern corries of the Cairngorms because snow conditions there are reliable.

Late February and March are probably the best months to aim for, though UK winters are so unpredictable that there's no guarantee of snow even then. In the Lakes or North Wales winter conditions are often random and short-lived, so it's a question of pot luck.

The other alternative which will teach you about axe and crampon techniques as well as glacier travel and ropework would be a summer alpine skills course in the Alps.

Which Course?

The two most obvious choices are the national mountain sport centres of Scotland and Wales respectively - England doesn't have an equivalent for some reason - but there are plenty of other good alternatives. Both Glenmore Lodge and Plas y Brenin however, have a well-earned reputation for providing consistently high levels of professional instruction backed up with comprehensive stores of loan equipment, so generally all you need is your own basic clothing.

Glenmore Lodge
www.glenmorelodge.org.uk

'The Lodge' is sited near Aviemore with easy access to the northern corries of the Cairngorms and is part of Sport Scotland. They run winter hillwalking courses (aimed at basic hillwalkers), winter mountaineering courses (aimed at those who want to tackle scrambles in winter conditions) and winter climbing courses at various levels right up to hardcore water ice, including Norway-based courses.

The Lodge has also been refurbished and now has a bar as well as the copious quantities of cake that it's best known for. The biggest plus though - apart from the high quality of instruction - is easy access to the Cairngorms for both walking and climbing.

Plasy y Brenin
www.pyb.co.uk

'The Brenin' lurks beneath Snowdon just outside Capel Curig in North Wales. Like Glenmore Lodge it has fantastic facilities, a large and highly professional staff, refurbished and comfortable accommodation, cake and a bar.

They run winter courses both in North Wales and based at Alltshellach in the western highlands of Scotland ranging from winter hillwalking through to snow and ice climbing. There's also a bursary that gives reduced price Scottish winter mountaineering course for eight people aged between 18 and 25 - see this link.

Other Options?

The national mountain centres are obvious and reliable choices, but not the only ones. There are plenty of independent courses run by smaller outfits that are excellent. Lots of ads on the web and in the backs of those lamentable magazine things, but how do you choose?

First, personal recommendation is a good starting point, but the two initials to look for are:

'BMG' or 'British Mountain Guide', which is the highest mountain guiding qualification available and means the holder is also a member of the international IFMGA organisation.
web site includes list of members.

'AMI' Association of Mountaineering Instructors whose members hold the MIC - Mountaineering Instructor's Certificate - the next tier down from Mountain Guides, MIC holders are still highly trained in year-round mountain skills.
web site includes list of members.

Other Considerations

• Professional training providers should be able to point you in the direction of suitable personal insurance and should, themselves, be insured against damaging you through negligence.

• Glenmore Lodge and Plas y Brenin can provide technical equipment and some outer clothing as an inclusive part of the course, with other courses, check to see what's included and if there's a hire option if you're short of suitable kit. Using someone else's gear is a good way of working out what you prefer before buying your own.


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