Thanks Paddy, that's helpful to know there's a hardware shop. I didn't take a stove at all on the GR20 and am contemplating not for this trip but it's the cup of tea in the morning in bed that is calling...!
They don't call a certain brand 'smelly helly' for no reason...!
Last summer on an extended hike I tested an Icebreaker 150gsm t-shirt to see how many days of continuous use I could get from it without washing it. I feel I need to clarify that a) whilst not adverse to getting stuck in whilst outdoors, I have no interest in being smelly; b) I could and would have washed it as soon as it took on a noticeable smell; c) my wife was also there who would be the first to say if it had become smelly; and d) this wasn't a case of getting used to the smell because other clothing did need washing and was washed regularly. I wore the merino t-shirt for 18 continuous days (2 travelling, 1 enforced rest day and 15 hiking days). The hike was mostly hot and at times very sweaty. By the end I was happy to wash it but it was very far from 'stinky' and certainly it could have been worn for longer.
Hope that helps - I can' imagine another material being worn for that long and not smelling. Any synthetic base layers I've had have always really needed washing after a single day's use and after 2 to 3 days definitely smell.
I've got the Yukon and asked for a modified hood: I got it made as a stud on with drawstring cinch rather than the elasticated hood. I love the hood on mine and was wearing on Sunday morning in strong, biting wind whilst feeling really snug!