I wanted a sand Allak, Hilleberg's current green being too close to black for me, and got fobbed off with inaction and lies. Perhaps they thought if they strung me along enough, I'd accept the green Allak they had in stock?
It went like this:
25 Oct: sunny (ish) day, so I get on the pedal bike and ride 2 1/4 hours to Hereford, inspect the Allak they had pitched in the shop, and ask about ordering a sand version in. They'll enquire with Hilleberg and phone on Monday.
29 Oct: no phone call, so I emailed chasing up.
1 Nov: another sunny day, so I get back on the bike, ride back to Hereford, get an apology and another promise to let me know about ordering in from Sweden (by email this time).
11 Nov: still no email, so I email again, in a WTF's happening tone. (rainy at the weekend, so I didn't ride there a 3rd time to grumble in person). I receive a prompt reply from the stock control manager chap saying words to the effect of "very sorry, sand Allak is on forward order - i.e order in advance of making the tent - I've already asked when the order deadline is - till interested despite the wait?"
14 Nov: Replied saying "tell me dates, Feb/March would be OK"
20 Nov: No further contact, so I emailed Alpenstock. They got a sand Allak from Hilleberg in Sweden for me in about a week and a half, so I can only assume that the stuff about forward ordering was just excuses for doing nothing.
When I was a kid (60s), we had camp beds that were of the same construction, but cotton canvas and solid steel legs and side rails. Tough as old boots.
You can get the Thermarest 1250g camp bed for a mere £165
There are a number of fairly cheap (£30) camp beds available with box section aluminium rails and legs. These should be lighter, and may well pack up smaller than the W-shaped legs on the Argos bed allows. They may not be so durable though.
They are cheap and give lots of light that allows you to see well.
Downsides are that the light goes everywhere, including the eyes of oncoming traffic, and you may therefore occasionally get a retaliatory dose of main beam. In order not to dazzle, you've got to aim the beam short enough (beam centre hitting the road within 10-12m) that it impedes your own progress.
Also, there's virtually no quality control, so faults like the LED burning out because there isn't a good thermal path to the casing aren't all that uncommon. Lithium batteries can also catch fire quite violently, so take care with unattended charging.
If you are doing a lot of night cycling, I'd recommend getting a proper dynohub setup so you've no lighting worries at all, like in your car.
If there's a blocking high pressure system and you can read the height of your start point off the map a barometric altitude will be pretty good,
I did a 120 km bike ride one time with a barometric altimeter, having pre-armed myself with a full set of spot heights off 1:2,500 maps, and found that it read spot on for the first 50 km, 1m high for the second 50km, and 2m high for the final 20km. (Ciclomaster CM414, last seen in the middle of Tibet).
I'd interpret that to mean that a good barometric altimeter can be accurate to 1m, given recent enough calibration,
My understanding is that GPS height accuracy is about 3x worse than horizontal, so typically +/- 10m, given a decent signal. If the signal isn't good it can be quite a bit worse. I've sat at a town square cafe table trying to calibrate my barometric altimeter off a GPS, and found the height wandering up and down by 40m either side of the average.
On-line map heights will be take from either OS terrain 50 (free), which is an average height for a 50m grid square, or from NASA SRTM data, which isn't any more precise. It's good enough in a flat area, but if there's a lot of height change over a short distance, you can get fairly obvious errors such as a river flowing up and over a 140m pass rather than along a flat gorge.