Yes, that looks spot on to me except I probably wouldn't carry both the Strata and the insulated jacket. You could to start with but you probably won't need both unless it's extremely cold. Thanks, glad you like the blog!
Opinions vary a lot and that's because it depends so much on conditions, just like anywhere else. I've got to the top of some 4000 m peaks wearing just a baselayer and softshell trousers and when I've done them again, same time of year, I've been climbing in a belay jacket. On your first route of a trip go conservative until you get an idea of what you'll realistically need, and if you pack too much then it's not a big deal. Also, remember that not all 4000 m peaks will be the same temperature - Mont Blanc will be 8 degrees colder on the summit than, say, Allalinhorn, on a dry day. That's a lot. Wind is obviously a factor too.
For 'typical' conditions on summit day I'd carry/wear non-membrane softshell trousers (no long johns - you'll melt in the afternoon), thin long-sleeved baselayer with a hood, thin fleece or thin softshell, superlight waterproof, down jacket or synthetic jacket. I'd have two pairs of gloves with me, warm hat, sunhat.
Interesting article, and I think it emphasises just how different people need different diets and that ultimately the body will adapt. If you look at most elite athletes, their training regimes are roughly similar but their diets often differ enormously. On an expedition you're unlikely to be able to eat exactly what you want all the time, so if there's butter or pasta you better eat it.
The fat-burning thing makes sense particularly if you've adapted to burn fat at high heart rates: someone like Carlos Sastre could ride 200 km on a single Powerbar because he was so well adapted to burning fat. Similarly, if you just eat carbs and your body burns fat and carbs, there comes a point when you must eat fat or your body will go into fasting mode and you'll bonk, even if you're supplying what seems like sufficient carbs. That point will only be reached in ultra-events, but that's exactly what an expedition is. Mark Twight talks a fair bit about this in Extreme Alpinism.