Stuart, If you are staking down the inner, you are defiitely pitching it wrong. The outer (fly) is what gets staked down at the front and rear ends, and then the guylines get staked out to the sides. The inner basically hangs from the inner and shouldn't need staking down.
It could be that, by staking down the inner, you are putting tension where it's not supposed to be and distorting the geometry of the tent so that the inner and outer are touching.
The main line of tension in tunnel tents is down the length from head to foot, but only for the outer. The inner shuld be quite "relaxed." I really recommend you have a look at the pitching guide at Hilleberg's site (http://www.hilleberg.com/home/pitch_instructions/H11-Instructions-Nallo-Spreads-LoRez.pdf) and practice pitching somewhere level. You could even remove the inner and practice pitching just the outer.
As Dylan says, make sure the tensioning straps are fully extended (loosened) before pitching so that you can tension them after putting the stakes in. But don't over-tension and that can distort the tent and cause flapping and sagging too. Also, there are tensioning straps at the foot of the poles (the ends of the sleeves that the poles go into) - make sure they are loose too, and then tighten them a bit once the poles are in and the tent is standing up.
Keep practicing, you'll get there! It's a great little tent and absolutely bomber once you get the pitching sorted.
Peter - that's true. I have camped in conditions where we were basically in a cloud for the whole night. Everything was pretty damp the next morning and there was nothing we really could have done to prevent that, other than camp somewhere else. Luckily, our body heat was enough to keep the down in our quilts dry enough to avoid collapsing into wet clumps, otherwise it would have been a very unpleasant night.
Stuart, I had the same experience first night in my Nallo and it was definitely condensationin that instance. I quickly learned to open the zip as far as it would go at the foot end. I also use a stick or nearby tree to pull the central guy line up a bit, forcing some separation between the fly and the inner at the foot end. You say your Nallo is the older model with no zip so that's not much help I guess...but if you can contrive a way to force a gap between inner and fly at the foot end, I'm sure it will help. Airflow between fly and inner will also reduce condensation generally.
I also have the foot end "window" open all the way (mesh closed for bugs, but the solid cover all the way open) and I always leave some mesh-only at the front of the tent - often the top 1/2 of the front door is set to mesh only overnight.
Since taking those measures I have had very little or no condensation.
What sam09 said about the shape of the ground is also relevant. If the ground is slightly concave (curving upwards) along the length of the Nallo, I find it much harder to get a taut pitch. With the geometry of a tunnel tent like this, the flatter the ground, thea easier it is to get a really taut fly.
I've bought from them, via their ebay store, several times over the last 3 years. Always found them to be reliable, with fast turnaround, and good to deal with generally. They must be doing alright to have upgraded from (just) ebay to their own online store. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.
I probably should have mentioned that I live in Australia - hence the delay in replying
Thanks for all the suggestions ( I didn't even know that Fjallraven made clothes!). The rip might be repairable, but the fabric is really quite worn now so they probably wouldn't last much longer anyway.
It never crossed my mind to look for old stock of the converts that is still out there. I reckon that's the option I'll take. Rohan gear is stocked at a few places in Oz, so I will try to check them out in person too, in case I can't get what I want from old stock.
Stuart Allie
