Back in the old days we all had one waterproof jacket. Usually it
weighed about a kilo and a half and spent most of the summer living
at the bottom of your pack along with old orange peel, half-forgotten
Mars bars and that map of the Lakes you thought you'd lost...
Well, things have moved on. More of us have accepted that a full
mountain jacket is just overkill for the summer months and mostly
just deadweight in your pack. Modern ultra-lightweight jackets can
weigh as little as 270 grammes and still offer full rain protection,
but without weighing you down the rest of the time.
They're also a near essential year-round complement to some of the
wind and water-resistant 'soft shell' garments that manage 90
per-cent of the time, but can't cope with real deluge conditions.
But what should you be looking for in a lightweight, breathable
waterproof jacket? Apart from it being black obviously. Here are our top points to look out for.
Weight Versus
Wear It may be stating the obvious, but lightweight fabrics
simply won't last as long as heavier ones. If you're into Scottish
mixed climbing or off on a heavy duty, year-long backpacking trip,
light ain't necessarily right. Think sand papering...
Because of this, most lightweight jackets are cut short and aimed
at 'fast movers', though there are exceptions. Perhaps most
interesting though - if you're loaded that is - is the Arc'teryx
Cirrus, which uses New Paclite combined with tougher XCR panels in
high wear areas like the shoulders. But at a price.
Cut We've
just touched on cut, but a lot of lightweight jackets are aimed at
'fast movers' - that means a slim cut usually with a drop tail at the
rear to increase butt protection when biking and running, but allow
maximum mobility for high steps at the front. Of course by cutting
down on material, it also saves weight. If you want a longer jacket
check out the ME Firefly Berghaus's Paclite Pro which are both more
of a full mountain design.
A close fit is good for breathability, but make sure it doesn't
compromise your mobility, particularly if you'll be climbing or
scrambling. Make sure you can reach high without the hem of the
jacket pulling up and that fabric doesn't billow everywhere with a
pack on.
Sleeves and
Cuffs We like easily adjustable cuffs with a mechanism to hold
them open as well as closed - that way you get venting as well as,
well, closure. If the cuffs are elasticated, watch out for thin cord
that could cut into your wrists. Finally, if you're a sleeve-rolling
type, make sure there's enough clearance to get the cuffs up over
those powerful climbing forearms you've built up over the winter...
Contruction
All seams should be taped, which almost goes without saying, we also
prefer shoulders without seams for maximum comfort and durability
when wearing a pack, captive drawcords wherever fitted - if you're
climbing, they're better sited at the side out of harm and abseil
plate's way, than at the front.
Fabric You
could argue that because you'll be using a lightweight jacket less
often - you wish, this is Britain fercrissakes - breathability is
less crucial, then again, you'll be moving faster in warmer
conditions, so overheating is more of an issue.
Put simply, the best lightweight waterproof fabric we've used for
breathability is the New Paclite from Gore. We've used it a lot and
it's simply more effective than anything else on the market. You pay
a price premium though and if you run cool, move slowly or simply
want to save some hard-earned dosh, there are plenty of other
effective fabrics out there.
Ripstop - by the way - the grid pattern seen on many light fabrics
isn't strictly necessary any more as modern materials are very strong
for their weight, but if it makes you feel more confident, then
that's fair enough.
Hoods Many
lightweight jackets have very basic hoods. That's fine, but no-one's
told the British weather to take things easy just because it's June.
We'd look for some sort of stiffened peak, the ability to cinch the
opening down to cover as much of your face as possible and captive
drawcords to avoid a face lashing when it gets windy.
If you're a mountain biker or runner, then a rolldown or zip-away
hood is well worth having instead of the free-flapping menace of an
unsecured head protector.
The question we're most often asked though, is who makes a
lightweight jacket that will accommodate a climbing helmet? The ones
we're aware of are the Mountain Equipment Firefly, Haglofs LIM
Ultimate, Lowe Alpine's Atom and the Arc'teryx Sirrus, though we're
sure there are others out there too. As an alternative, the thin
fabric used means you may be able to wear a helmet over many other
hoods.
Pockets
Pockets are really a personal choice kind of thing. Some people
never use them, some feel bereft without huge ones full of toffees
and old sweet wrappers. It's your choice, but a few points to look
out for
If the pockets are mesh lined, make sure there's a good storm flap
as if the zips leak, you'll get wet and if you're going to be using a
harness or pack, look for pockets that will clear a hip belt. Common
sense really, but worth thinking about.
Zips and Vents
For ultimate weight saving, a smock might be the way to go - the
Berghaus Paclite Smock for example, weighs in at around 275 grammes,
though the Montane Superfly is around the same and the Haglofs LIM
Ultimate Paclite only very slightly more.
Whether the zip is full-length or not though, look for a storm
flap which gives full protection to the opening. The urethane-coated
zips sometimes referred to as 'waterproof' are really only water
resistant, so a storm flap is still vital. If it's an internal one,
under the zip, make sure it's stiff enough that it won't fold under
itself in a completely useless fashion. Ideally, we'd want some sort
of double flap for real UK wet weather use.
Venting is handy, especially if you run hot, but again, look for
flap protection and, with the thinner fabrics, beware of zips
catching on the material and jamming open. If pit-zips are fitted -
our tip is to stick your arms right through them - make sure they
don't create extra bulk under the armpit and compromise fit.
Mesh-lined pockets come vents are an effective compromise, but beware
of leaks which'll go straight through to your delicate underlayers...
The End You
don't have to pay a huge amount for a lightweight waterproof. Sure,
you can lash out 250 quid on a top-end Paclite jacket, but equally
you can get a perfectly serviceable, extremely light but affordable
jacket like Lowe Alpine's Adrenaline at under a third of the price.
It won't be as breathable or have as many cunning features, but it'll
still be extremely light and pack down small. And of course there's a
lot in between.
We'll be testing a few lightweight jackets on the site over the
next few weeks.
