It's cold, so put more clothes on? Actually it's not quite that
simple, our Richard Gear advises you on the best way to stay warm in
the British winter and take the insularity out of insulation. What a
boy...
Baby It's Damp Out There...
Did
you know that the Swiss army occasionally trains in Scotland because
the conditions are so savage? UK winter conditions are actually some
of the toughest in the world for two reasons. First, the relatively
small size of our hills means that Brits tend to go out in anything
short of a full-on blizzard. Next, the combination of dampness and
cold is a killer.
Damp air conducts heat more effectively than the dry stuff you
find high up in, say, the Alps; that means that an insulated jacket
or sleeping bag that keeps you snug and warm in the Himalaya may well
feel significantly colder in, say, Scotland.
There's a secondary effect, which is that damp air also
compromises the breathability of shell clothing because there's less
of a favourable temperature / humidity gradient between the inside
and outside of the fabric. The result is that your inner layers have
a tendency to get damp which in turn reduces their insulation value
further as they transmit body heat outwards...
In The Beginning...
Baselayers
- the thin clothing you wear next to your skin used to be known as
'thermals', but their main function is actually to transmit moisture
away from your skin and outwards. The worst thing you can do is wear
a cotton tee-shirt. It may feel comfortable inside, but cotton holds
water close to your body and feels cold and clammy. Stay away from
jeans for the same reason...
Instead look for a thin, high-wicking synthetic - we like
Polartec's Powerdry, Lowe Alpine's DryFlo and Patagonia Capilene - or
a thin merino-based garment from the likes of Rab, Icebreaker or
Macpac.
Don't Overdo It...
Before we get onto specifics, a word of caution. Most
mountain-goers tend to wear too much when moving and not enough when
stopped. Working hard on the hill chucks out a lot of heat and sweat
and even if you feel cool when you start off, chances are that on
most days, you'll warm up fast. Drench your clothing with sweat and
your insulation will be much less efficient.
When you stop, you cool down fast, so as soon as you come to a
halt, stick on a hat and some extra insulation to stop yourself from
cooling down fast.
Belay Jackets
One answer that we're using increasingly is to use a synthetically
insulated 'belay jacket' system. The concept began with winter
climbers who stay warm while climbing but cool fast once they've
stopped at a belay stance. The answer is a fat, warm jacket that,
because it uses water-resistant synthetic filling can simpply be
slung over all other layers for near instant warmth. The same system
works just as well for stop / start walking.
Insulating Layers
Once
they're moving, many people will find anything heavier than a
100-weight lightweight fleece too warm except in the very coldest
conditions particularly coupled with a windproof or waterproof shell.
Don't be afraid to experiment with a baselayer worn directly under a
shell or, even if you're still hot, without a shell jacket.
You'll cool down on descents or on level paths, but for hard
ascents and mountaineering walk-ins, you may be surprised at how
little you can get away with when moving. Try regulating temperature
with a fleece hat or cap as well.
If you run cold, then by all means use a heavier weight fleece,
but if you're sweating profusely then you're too hot and the moisture
trapped in your clothing will reduce its insulation value and mean
you cool down rapidly once you stop moving or hit a downhill or flat
section.
Alternative Insulation...
Fleece coupled with a shell layer is the traditional choice, but
there are plenty of alternatives often combining an insulating
material with a wind and / or waterproof shell element.
- Shelled microfleece - windproof and breathes and wicks well,
but is either 'on' or 'off' which can be an issue if you overheat.
Eg: Marmot Driclime, ME Microtherm.
- Pile/Pertex - pile is very warm and holds little water making
it ideal for cold, wet conditions in, say, Scotland. Venting
helps, but very warm and bulky making it less than ideal for
carrying. Great for Scottish winter mountaineering. Eg: Buffalo,
Montane.
- Synthetic fillings - down substitutes in windproof shell
fabric work far better than down when wet. Great as a standby for
stops and belays, not usuallty great for active use in UK
conditions though. Eg. Primaloft filled garments.
- Paramo - uses the fabled Analogy system to pump water
outwards, but even with venting seems too warm for some users
under active use. If you run at low to average temperatures
though, it works very well for winter use helped by judicious
venting...
Softshell
- a feature on its own, different softshells work to varying
degrees in UK conditions. The more weatherproof options like
Windstopper tend to suffer from lack of breathability in UK damp
though Schoeller-type fabrics make excellent legwear.
- Down - is next to useless for UK active use as water and
dampness stops the filling from lofting. Great for sitting around
on dry, cold days and walking down the pub, but rarely worth using
on the hill. If you must have a fat, insulated jacket, stick to
synthetics like Primaloft for the UK.
- Ventile - someone's bound to say 'what about Ventile'? Closely
woven cotton, it's very breathable and wind resistant, but tends
to get wet and take a while to dry, plus it's almost impossible to
locate the stuff
Legwear...
Legs
are less prone to cold than your upper body, plus you need to
maintain mobility making lots of layers impractical and generally OTT
except in the coldest conditions. We like a combination of
Schoeller-type, wind and water-resistant trousers with baselayer
leggings in cold weather and the option of overtrousers when things
get really nasty.
Densely-woven Ultrafleece or Karisma material also works well
though conventional fleece lacks wind resistance. Thin Gore
Windstopper fabrics also work well for legwear where the limited
breathability in UK conditions is less of an issue.
Salopettes / bibs or high-waisted trousers with braces eliminate
cold spots at the waist particularly if you're climbing and full
length zips will let you don them without removing boots, crampons or
skis.
Pile-Pertex salopettes are fantastically warm and cope well with
moisture, but are much too warm for most active use. Great for slow
ice climbs though...
Shells
Your shell layer is what keeps the wind and rain off you and
allows your insulting layers to stay warm and dry. Ideally we'd take
advantage of the added breathability of a windproof shell until it
gets properly wet. Having said that, fabrics like eVENT and Gore-Tex
Paclite are getting more and more breathable.
What's crucial though is that you have a wind and waterproof layer
option which you can deploy when needed.
On Me Head Son...
There
are plenty of stats about how much heat you lose through your head,
though bear in mind they often include heat lost through exhalation,
not an easy thing to prevent. The body pumps blood to your brain to
keep you alive so insulating both head and neck is important.
A fleece beanie, windproof fleece beanie or a mountain cap are all
options - carry a spare for emergencies - and you can also use the
hat or lack of it as an effective heat regulation device. If you're
getting hot, take the hat off. It may be enough to keep your
cool.
For really savage conditions, a neoprene face mask will protect
the lower part of your face. Finally don't forget gloves and again, a
spare pair. Windproof fleece are a good start, but you can layer
conventional fleece inners with a wind and waterproof outer or, if
you're feeling old skool, go for matter wool Dachstein mitts which
are seriously warm.
Last But Not Least :-)
I've been talking about clothing, but eating the right food is
essential to avoid exhaustion and hypothermia in winter conditions.
Your clothing is only half the battle. See our guide to coping with
hypothermia.
monkey M*gic
