The Basics
Why wear specialised rock boots rather than starting out in trainers or walking boots? Anyone who's tried both won't hesitate to advise you against the trainer/walking boot option. They may be comfortable but they don't have the friction you need to balance on small holds on a vertical or near-vertical surface. Rock boots, on the other hand, have a sole made of vulcanised rubber, which was originally used for tyres but also fulfils the nobler function of supporting climbers' feet:-)
So how does it work? Well, the friction generated between your rock boot and the wall increases the flexibility of the rubber, and makes it expand. This increases the surface area between your foot and the wall. In non technical terms, it means your foot sticks better.
Given this basic principle of rock boots, they still come in various shapes and sizes (not to mention the lurid colours). Once you've got your sun glasses on to block the latter, here's what to look out for ...
Fit
OK, so let's face it; climbing shoes aren't the most comfortable type of footwear. If yours are comfortable enough that you want to keep them on for the evening after you've finished climbing, there's something wrong. Novice climbers, seeking advice on their first purchase, are generally told to go for a tight fit, and buy smaller than their usual shoe size. There's something in this, but it needs taking with a pinch of salt.
While too much toe wiggling room is bad news, if your shoes fit so tightly you can barely hobble to the crag in them then your enthusiasm for climbing isn't exactly going to soar. It's better to have slightly more space than you need than to be in agony all day. Although you might start climbing on an indoor wall, bear in mind that later on you could be doing full day sessions out on a crag. You'll also have to do some walking or scrambling to get from the top of each climb to where your comfortable approach shoes await you at the bottom. In this scenario, the squashed-toe phenomena can only increase, while your willingness to give another route a shot declines proportionally. The most important thing is to buy a pair of shoes you can bear to wear.
Another decision to make is whether or not you'll want to wear socks. Admittedly, this is a faux-pas with most climbers. That can be a price worth paying though. If you plan on scaling outdoor crags early in the season then keeping your toes warm might be more important. If you want to wear your boots with socks, you'll have to try them on that way in the shop.
Climbing shoes are still hand made so sizes can vary dramatically between manufacturers, and also between models. Trying them on is a must, so buying over the internet isn't a good idea unless you know which size you want first.
Sole Flexibility
Climbing shoes are manufactured in two different ways. They can be 'board-lasted' - the 'last', which determines the fit, is placed on top of a stiff insole and the upper is then built around it. This gives a tough sole which suits beginners well, as it provides plenty of support before the foot muscles have developed. The other option is a 'slip-lasted' boot, which means the upper is built separately, like a sock, and then slipped over the last. The result is a much more flexible boot which is better for technical climbing.
There are also less orthodox designs on the market. With comfort in mind, some manufacturers have developed rock boots with a cushioned sole, to absorb some of the shock that's generated every time your feet impact with the ground. The downside is that what you gain in comfort, you lose in technicality. In other words, this type of boot does the job for long outdoor climbing sessions on fairly straightforward climbs, but it's not made for pushing your limits in. The half-way house is a sole that only has heel padding, like the Red Chili Velcro Impact Zone.
The other mutant form of shoe is made for hardened boulderers, and it features a layer of rubber on the top of the shoe, not just on and around the sole. This gives extra grip when using the tops of your feet to hold you on the wall, or to pull up on it. It's only a factor if you're climbing big overhangs regularly though.
Finally, you can buy shoes with ribbing on parts of the sole, particularly around the heel, for extra grip. This is more of an issue if you're climbing outdoors than at your local wall, where a smoother rubber finish does the job.
Laces or Velcro?
The difference is about £5, in favour of lace-ups. On the other hand, velcro fastenings obviously make it a lot easier to take your shoes off for a while in between climbs. Bearing in mind the notes on comfort earlier, this is something you might well want to do to give your feet a rest without holding up the day's climbing.
Some argue that lace ups fine-tune the fit of your shoe better than velcro does. Having said that, if the fit's right in the first place then you shouldn't need to pull in too much slack in the upper. Hence, it's mostly a matter of preference.
Symmetrical or Asymmetric?
Some climbing shoes bunch your toes up inside them, rather than letting them lie flat. The reasoning behind this is that the greater the curve of your toes, the stronger they are (just as bending your fingers enables them to take more load than if they're straight). You can spot these from the way the toes curve inwards, and you're more likely to use them for technical, and more advanced, climbing. Beginners on the other hand are more likely to want symmetrical shoes, which have a last that's less claw-like, and more ... well ...foot-shaped.
Overall
The array of climbing shoes on the market is ever-increasing, but the abundance of options doesn't mean it's easy to find the right pair. The margin of error when you're buying new rock boots is rather a small one - a fraction too tight and they make for a painful day out. A lot of outdoor shops have a mini bouldering wall that you can try them out on ...well, just a few holds attached to a board actually, but it's better than simply pacing up and down the shop floor. It's worth taking your time, but don't listen to the voices telling you to buy super-small ones too closely. Climbing shoes aren't comfort items, but they shouldn't be torture implements either:-)
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Help and Advice
This article should have given you some basic
pointers. The good news is that there's a load more advice on
OUTDOORSmagic:
- Ask on the gear
forum about general issues or specific
items.
- Check the member
reviews section for user experiences of
kit.
- See OM editorial reviews on the front of the
site for our impressions.
- Ask
Richard Gear if you have a specific
question you need answering.
Oscar Järkvik
