Crampons - A Dating Guide
Boot, meet crampon, crampon meet boot... A marriage made in
heaven, yes if you follow the OUTDOORSmagic crampon bozo guide as we
rake our sharp front points through the murky complications of metal
spikiness.
Why?
Dohhh, without them you'll fall over on hard snow or ice. A
relationship with a pair of crampons opens up terrain and whole
ranges you couldn't otherwise hope to canoodle with. They're
surrounded by technical mystique and blather, but the reality is that
they're easy to use and a major safety investment.
When to put them on?
If it's easier and safer to walk with crampons than without is the
short answer. Try not to wear them unnecessarily as cramponing is
reckoned to be 10 per-cent less efficient than walking without them.
If there's hard snow or ice underfoot, chances are that it's worth
the effort. Snow doesn't automatically mean you need to crampon up,
in softer conditions, it's quite feasible and more effective to
simply kick steps with your boots.
When to take them off?
When you can walk easily and safely without them. Using crampons
on rocky ground unnecessarily will blunt the points and be less
stable.
A Crampon Fancier's Guide
You spot a crampon across a crowded dance floor, but how do you
know if it's for you? Our spotter's guide will help you decide.
For an
overview of the crampon/boot compatibility guidelines see
here
Instep Crampons - Crampon Grade -
v.crap
Mini crampons that fit on your instep are okay for ski station
workers and lumberjacks, but a dead loss for mountain walking. Ignore
these near useless wall flowers.
Walking Crampons - Crampon Grade
C1
Attachment: usually straps or a combiantion of straps and nylon
cradles.
Generally use a strip of steel running under the boot that will
flex with the sole as you walk. Officially they will match up with
any boot with a B1 grading or higher, but in reality, most 3-season
boots will take a flexible crampon for short periods.
Some C1 crampons come without front points - the ones that stick
out horizontally in front of the toe - but they're worth having for
the extra security when kicking steps into slopes, even if you're not
technically front-pointing like climbers on ice.
Articulated Crampons - Crampon Grade
C2
Attachment: Either as C1 or a combination of straps or
nylon toe cradle with a clip-on heel.
These are designed to work with stiffer boots - B2 and above - and
are usually designed for more technical use than C1s. Most are
'articulated' which means they have a hinge-type joint, however it's
not designed to flex with the sole, which will be close to rigid
anyway, but to prevent the stress that would result if they were
fully rigid.
Fully Rigid Climbing Crampons - Crampon
Grade C3
Attachment: usually full clip-on front and rear with safety
strap, which is non-structural
Fully rigid climbing crampons are designed, you guessed it, for
climbing and can only be used with fully stiffened B3 boots - either
plastic mountaineering ones or leather. The sole needs to have
suitable 'recesses; front and rear to accommodate the bindings.
Becoming more and more specialised and less useful for general
mountaineering though there are some crossovers out there which can
be used in rigid or articulated mode.
More stuff worth knowing
Fitting
Fit is the most crucial factor with crampons - different crampons
suit different boots and the best model in the world is useless if it
doesn't match the profile of your boots' soles for example. Take your
boots with you when you buy and get help. You're looking for a fit
where the crampon can be adjusted to sit on your boot without being
physically attached and without any big gaps between the crampon and
the sole. If the ones you like don't fit, try others. Some specialist
climbing boots - Scarpa's Freney for example - are very fussy about
which crampons will fit them, so be prepared for some trial and error
dating.
Small Feet?
If you have a small foot, take a look at the ten-point models
available. Often women, in particular, simply don't have a big enough
foot to provide space for twelve points and the more widely spaced
points of a ten-pointer provide a better fit.
Big Feet
You know what they say about men with big feet? They have to shop
around to find crampons. Some like the Grivel 2F offer an optional
extension bar if the standard crampon is too short, generally
crampons
Attachments
* The new nylon cradle-type fittings like Grivel's New Classic
system are actually quicker to fit than step-in systems because you
don't have to mess around cleaning snow out of grooves. We like them
a lot. Step-ins are also excellent, again because you minimise the
time spent messing around with freezing fingers, though be very, very
careful that toe bails and heel clips are properly located with
these.
* If you're using strap-on crampons with soft-uppered boots, be
aware that the straps can cut into your feet and impair circulation
which is uncomfortable and potentially dangerous.
* Always make sure any buckles or loose ends are on the outside of
your boot to minimise the dangers of snagging and tripping
Adjustment
Get them adjusted to fit in the shop. Tool-less adjustment is a
nice touch, but really only crucial if you change your crampon from
boot to boot on a regular basis. If your crampon does use bolts,
check them for tightness regularly and consider using Nylock nuts if
they aren't already fitted as standard.
With some clip-ons, you may need to bend the bails or heel clip
wire slightly for the best fit, you can also stagger location holes
to tailor the crampon for a particular boot.
Maintenance
* Use a file, follow the manufacturer's instructions and remember
that unless you are climbing hard ice, they don't need to be raisor
sharp - the concentration of weight over small points is enough in
most conditions and you'll just wear your points out prematurely.
Never use power tools, the heat generated can
* Carry a minimal crampon first aid kit. Some wire and zip-ties
could be enough to hold a broken crampon together long enough to see
you off the hill.
Using Crampons - Idiots
Tips
* Walk like an ape with your legs apart to minimise the chances of
catching a point in your trousers and tripping over your own
feet.
* Don't try to edge in crampons, the key is to keep your foot flat
and maximise the number of points in contact with the snow.
* Pure front-pointing will make you calves explode fast. Try front
pointing with one foot and flat-footing with the other, much
easier.
* If you are front pointing on steep ice, drop your heel slightly
so your second points come into contact with the ice, it's much less
tiring and more stable, honest.
* 'Balling up' is a problem in soft, damp snow. Tap your boot with
your axe to clear the balls of snow or get some anti-balling plates.
Alterntively improvise with duck tape.
* On mixed ground, with snow and rock, it often helps to look for
rocky projections where you can place your instep so the points are
either side of the rock. Try it.
Guy Redmond
