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 | | WastwaterNorthEnd.jpg | | by Paul Holroyd |
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Water World - How To Stay Dry-ish |  |  | Okay, here's the bad news. If you walk or climb regularly in the
UK, you're gong to get rained on and - contrary to what the
manufacturers might tell you - no way are you going to stay
completely snug and dry in anything approaching proper rain. There
are though ways to minimise the dampness, so here are our top tips to
surviving Water World.
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Waterproof and breathable? The bottom line is that no
conventional waterproof / breathable material yet produced
is breathable enough. You will get damp from the inside
unless you choose to sit stock still. To make things worse,
shell materials work worst when it's raining - ideally you
want a temperature and humidity gradient between the outside
and inside. In real world talk, that means breahability
works best when you're warm and moist inside and the outside
world is very cold and very dry. Doesn't sound much like the
UK where the damp atmosphere and coolness encourages
condensation.
Bottom line: If you insist on moving around, you
will get some dampness from within.
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Wetting Out Just to make things worse, as waterproof
garments age, the factory Durable Water Repellant (DWR)
coating on the face (outside) fabric wears off, water soaks
in - dark, wet patches - and breathability drops even lower.
You may think the garment is leaking.
Bottom line: Maintain your kit, check this
article for how to do it.
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Feeling drier You can help yourself stay drier by
wearing proper wicking baselayers and mid-layers (fleece).
Not only will they help you to transport moisture away from
the body so (ahem) it can condense on the inside of your
shell, they'll also dry more quickly than, say, cotton and
feel more comfortable when damp, though wool can work well
also.
Bottom line: Wear wicking base and mid-layers
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But not too much...Too much insulation is bad. When
you're warm and moving you overheat, when you overheat you
sweat and get damp from the inside. Wear less when moving,
but more when stopped. It's better to start off feeling
almost chilled, you'll soon warm up with exertion.
Bottom line: Don't overdress or overstress
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Wear it well In heavy rain, water will make a bee
line for the smallest chink in your clothing. It'll run down
your neck, through your zips if they're not covered by a
proper flap and, given half a chance, wick up your sleeves
as well. Batton down and keep your hood up to stop it
running down your neck. Ironically wicking clothing will
help transport water inwards. Treachery... You need to
balance this against careful venting to try and keep
cool.
Bottom line: Batten down the hatches or they'll
leak.
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Boots Feet are as sweaty as any other part of you and
just as hard to keep dry. The nature of walking means that
your feet will dampen either through water making its way
over the top of your boot, down your leg or simply from
condensation. Even waterproof - breathable linings can only
do so much. The one thing that no-one tells you is that the
lining of the boot is crucial to comfort. We like Cambrelle
- it soaks up sweat and even ingress enough to keep your
feet comfortable even when wet.
Bottom line Same problem as elsewhere. If you
don't wear overtrousers, water will get in through the ankle
opening as well.
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Gaiters and trousers In rain, wear your overtrousers
over the top of gaiters. Sounds obvious no, but you'd be
surprised how many people you see funneling water into their
boots. In snow you're better off the other way round, wear
gaiters over your trousers to stop snow being forced up
inside the cuffs of the trews and to protect them from
crampon damage.
Bottom line Gaiters are good, but not if you wear
your overtrousers inside them.
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Packs Very few packs are remotely water resistant let
alone waterproof - untaped seams and zips will leak like
sieves. MacPac are probably the best of the conventional
brands. A pack cover will make a big difference, but makes
it awkward to access the contents of the pack quickly. A
heavy duty polythene liner is another solution, but they
tend to hole and the seal at the top is problematical.
Arguably a better solution is a canoe-type 'dry bag' with
roll-over seal from the likes of Ortlieb. Heavier than a
placcy bag, but tougher and safer. Alternatively the
Craghoppers Dripac range uses the same principle, but as an
integral part of the pack. Neat.
Bottom line Packs leak, take countermeasures or
end up with soggy clothing.
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Sleeping Bags Keeping your bag dry should be high
priority. A waterproof stuff sac or small dry bag is ideal,
but back it up by stuffing the bag into a bin liner first.
If you don't have a waterproof stuf sac, using a series of
plastic bags inside your stuff sack works as well. Try to
get heavy duty ones and don't rely on a single bag. They
will always leak eventually.
Bottom line Keep dry to avoid misery nights.
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Gloves Like feet seem impossible to keep dry even
with the latest waterproof / breathable membrane-lined
gloves. You can help by putting the cuffs of your jacket
over the glove, but even so, eventually your gloves will
leak. Not only that but the constant flexing and number of
seams in a glove liner mean that the waterproofing tends to
fail with use anyway.
Windproof fleece gloves, like those made from Gore's
Windstopper fabric, will be more water reistant than
standard fleece gloves and the reduction in windchill will
help to make your hands feel warmer but they will leak
through the untaped seams. If you're looking for a pair of
thin waterproof gloves, the only ones we know of are made by
Sealskinz and, in our experience, work surpisingly well.
Bottom line They'll leak, if not straight away,
then given use, and if they don't, they'll probably sweat
out.
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Socks We've come across two types of waterproof
socks, neither of which in our experience, work particularly
well. The Gore-Tex sock is a taped Gore-Tex bootie, feels
horrid and, eventually seems to end up trapping water inside
it instead of outside. Nasty.
Seal Skinz / Porelle Drys as well, are a more
conventional sock with a waterproof liner. They work up to a
point but feel cold, even with liner socks, and if you are
sweaty footed, get wet from the inside. A good half measure
if you have unlined fabric boots though.
Bottom line They make nice pond liners
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Maps One word, Ortlieb - German-made, totally
waterproof, tough, durable, sticky so you don't drop them
and the compass won't slide. They are essential if you're
using non-laminated maps and they last forever. You can
stick a guidebook in there too. Not to be confused with
traditional stiff, crackly, slidey, map cases on cords,
which always leak and tend to crack as well.
Bottom line Buy an Ortlieb map case, you won't
regret it.
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Pockets Last but not least, we've yet to come across
a waterproof jacket with pockets that are 100 per-cent
reliable. Somehow water always seems to find its way inside,
so if it needs to stay dry, don't put it in an exterior
pocket. A better bet is an internal pocket, though it may
still get damp from within, better still is inside a
watertight bag in your pack.
Bottom line Popular with fish
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The Bottom Line
Follow our tips and you should be damp rather than plain soaked.
The good news is that modern kit is generally very good - most
waterproof jackets even at the budget end of the market - are now
genuinely waterproof, albeit not breathable enough, and modern base
layers and fleece work well.
We haben't covered the alternatives like soft shell, or Paramo's
directional clothing, or even good old pile-Pertex, since that's an
article in itself, but we shall be soon. |
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