Scrambling's a pretty natural activity, really it's just easy
climbing and most of the same general rules apply, but there are
still a few tricks and tips you can use to make things easier for
yourself on the steeper stuff. So hold on tight, don't look down and
here's the OUTDOORSmagic scrambling guide. Oh...
Disclaimer If you trash yourself, it isn't
our fault. It just means you haven't followed the instructions
properly. Orright?
The Basics
Route
Finding
Most of the best lines are natural - most people can follow a
knife-edge ridge for example, but every so often things get
complicated and indistinct. So how do you decide which way to go?
First, don't assume that what looks easiest actually is. On Crib Goch
for example, the paths round the Pinnacles are loose and dangerous,
it's much better to go direct.
Don't just head up willy nilly, follow the line up and estimate
whether it's still do-able higher up. Have a look round corners,
sometimes there are easier ways tucked around the corner. On the
North Ridge of Tryfan for example, there's almost always a better
alternative. On popular scrambles, worn rock will often give the game
away.
Oh, one more thing. Don't be put off by the look of a section
before you're on it. Often scrambles viewed from a distance look
harder due to foreshortening, which makes the rock seem steeper.
The
Mental Side - Don't Panic!!!
Yeah, yeah. You're looking for a balance between knowing that
you're in a potentially dangerous situation and consequently being
prudent and turning into an anxiety-racked gibbering wreck. Try to
relax and focus on what you're doing rather than worry about what
might, but probably won't happen. Concentrate, get absorbed in the
moves and the holds, stay smooth.
If you do start to panic, stop and take some deep breaths, focus.
Sometimes squeezing your handholds really hard, then relaxing
consciously can help. If exposure is getting to you - ie: there are
big drops - it sometimes helps to imagine that the drop simply isn't
there. Sounds mad, but if you could do the moves easily four foot off
the ground, why can't you do them now?
Other
People
Don't get tricked into thinking that because another party is
having problems on a route, you will to. Let's be brutal, they might
simply be rubbish or on the wrong line. Or inexperienced. Conversely,
they might be really good, so don't assume that you can follow their
line. Make your own decisions based on your own judgement and
ability.
The
Scrambling Process
The more you scramble, the better you'll get. If you climb, even
if it's just on an indoor wall, scrambling moves will seem
straightforward, but these few basic tips could make your life
easier...
Three
Points of Contact
The oldest one in the book, but a goody. Always move one limb at a
time and make sure the others are securely planted or 'fastened' to
the rock. It's sometimes tempting to rush, but better to be slightly
slower but smoother and more secure.
Trust
Your Feet
Even on hard scrambles, most of your weight should be on your
feet, you shouldn't need to pull yourself up with your hands and
arms. There are good reasons for this - your legs are designed to
lift your bodyweight, your arms aren't.
Don't
Use Your Knees
It's tempting, but standing up onto a knee is a bad move. Anywhere
you can reach with a knee, you can place a foot, which is better.
Why? Apart from not wearing out your pants, you can't stand up on a
knee without throwing yourself into off-balance hell. Don't do it
kids.
Test
The Holds
On popular scrambles, most rock should be sound, if only because
someone else will have knocked the loose bits off, but don't count on
it. Before trusting a hold, make sure it's sound. You'lll get a sixth
sense for it eventually, but give footholds a quick kick or weight
them gently before trusting them and similarly give handholds a
gentle tug too. Sometimes you'll encounter spikes and flakes that are
loose, but will still take a pull in one direction. You can use them,
but be aware of their limitations.
Don't panic and grab for holds. They're not always as good as they
look from below.
Ghylls...
Scrambling on Lake District waterfalls - 'ghylls' - is highly
entertaining, but watch out for green, slimey rock. Often rock which
is permanently underwater and washed by strong flow is the cleanest
and grippiest, even though it's wet. Strange but true.
Use
Handrails
On knife-edge ridges, you can often use footholds below the crest
and use the very top of the ridge as a secure handrail. The higher
the foot holds, the more awkward this gets with the ultimate being an
inelegant crouching crawl along the top of the ridge.
Look
For Intermediate Holds
If you find yourself struggling to take an awkward huge high step
at the very limit of your mobility, have a closer look for an
intermediate foothold that will let you move up more easily onto the
bigger hold above. It's easy to get distracted by the really big,
obvious holds and ignore smaller, but just as useful ones. They may
even be blocked out of view by your own feet.
Use
The Outside of Your Foot
If you're square on to the rock and can't step high enough to
reach the next hold, use the outside edge of your foot on the lower
foot hold. You'll gain a little more distance which can be the
difference between reaching the upper hold and not. You'll also find
your body is more balanced in this position.
Bridge Out
If you find youself in a small corner or open chimney, it's
tempting to get pulled into the corner where things feel steep,
constricted and off balance. It's often more secure to look for holds
to the side or even behind you that'll let you get into a stable,
safe, bridging position where your weight is over your feet and not
trying to pull you over backwards. It's also an ideal stance for a
rest, though it can feel exposed...
Slabs
If you have to make a slabby move, look closely at the rock for
small ripples or nicks you can use then stand on them. Keep your feet
flat so there's as much rubber in contact with the rock as possible,
unless there's a defined edge you can stand on. Keep your palms flat
on the rock and pad on up.
Downclimbing
Getting down is always less natural than climbing up. On easy-ish
terrain you can often see better by facing outwards, but if it's
steep, twist round so you can face into the rock. Look for positive
holds to use and don't be tempted to drop onto holds just out of your
reach - look for intermediate holds and move your hands down first.
Look for handholds out to the side. And don't jump, it'll end in
tears.
It's often hard to pick out holds from above, so if your mate is
already below you, ask them to point out less obvious one that you
may have missed. They can even guide your foot onto them.
Cracks
We're not about to get into talking about jamming techniques, but
cracks can often make good footholds, just jam your boot in,
preferably above a point where the crack narrows and wedge it in
there. Make sure you can get it out afterwards though...
Got any more top tips?
Why not post them on the forum thread linked below?
Jon Doran
