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 BUYERS GUIDES 20 / 09 / 02
 

The Tao Of Fleece...

Buyers guides in association with
eVent Fabrics

Fleece eh? It used to come from sheep, now it's man-made stuff and heck, Patagonia even make it from recycled plastic bottles. Of course it used to be simple, you bought a mid-weight Polartec fleece and that was it, but not any more, oh no. Windproof fleece, wind resistant fleece, microfleece, Thermal Pro fleece, Ultrafleece etc. So how do you decide which to buy? We asked dodgy hut-dwelling hermit Richard Gear for some straightforward tips...


How thick?

It depends a little on how hot you run, but for the majority of people, the warmest fleece they're ever likely to need while moving in the UK is a 100-weight microfleece, certainly under a shell in winter. If you run very cool, stop a lot or are doing pitched winter climbing, something heavier might be in order, but for active use I'd suggest either microfleece or Powerstretch or similar.

What's PowerStretch Then?

Polartec fabric with 4-way stretch, 60 per-cent polyester, 30 per-cent Nylon, 10 per-cent Lycra spandex - what you really need to know is that it's about the same warmth as a microfleece, but stetchy and close fitting, which makes it both unrestrictive and thermally efficient as there are no air gaps. Only slight downside is that the elastic content has a very small effect on breathability and wicking effectiveness.


What about cheap fleece?

It used to be that non-Polartec fleeces, with a few exceptions like Patagonia's Capilene, would pill badly with use. That's actually changed thanks to new production facilities in the far east, so non-Polartec, 'own brand' fleeces can be a good buy. Many companies now use a mix of Polartec and non-Polartec fabrics. Lowe Alpine 'brands' most of its fleece as 'Aleutian', but some of it is Polartec.

And Windproof Fleece

For most UK use, windproof fleece - it usually uses a laminate sandwiched between two layers of fabric, like Gore Windstopper or Polartec PowerShield - is simply too warm and clammy. It functions better in very cold, high, dry conditions. The closer the membrane to the skin and the thinner the fleece layers, the better it will breathe, which is why Gore's N2S works far better. For the UK though, you'd be better off with a wind-resistant fleece, which will take the edge off the wind while allowing better breathability.


Wind Resistant Fleece

In the UK, fleeces which take the edge off the wind thanks to a closer, denser weave make a lot of sense. Our damp climate puts a premium on breathability and makes breathable fabrics less effective than in drier climates. My favourites are Mountain Equipment's Ultrafleece and Karisma (as used by Montane and others) which are very similar in performance and debatably the best all round fleece fabrics for UK use.

ME says Ultrafleece is over 100 per-cent more wind resistant than normal fleece, but it also scores by being slightly thinner which makes it less thermally efficient, so it avoids being too warm when worn under a shell jacket. Polartec's Wind Pro has similar properties and is claimed to be four to five times as wind resistant as normal fleece yet retain 85 per-cent of the breathability. Subjectively we'd say it's not quite as breathable as Ultrafleece / Karisma, but slightly more wind resistant. Comes in different thicknesses - watch out for a test of Lowe's new Altered State fleece in the fabric on the site soon.

Water Resistance?

Most windproof fleeces have a reasonable degree of water resistance too due to the membrane, but don't have taped seams so the water will get in. Anything claimed as 'waterproof' will almost certainly be too warm for any sort of active use. Some wind -resistant fleeces are treated with a DWR repellant treatment which means they'll tolerate light drizzle and dry out slightly faster when damp. There are also aftermarket treatments from the likes of Grangers and Nikwax.


What about wicking?

Fleece wicks okay, but most fleece is actually just a mass of tangled fibres, so there's no directional movement of water away from the body. The exception to this are some of the Thermal Pro fabric which have a pile-like, fluffy, directional feel. Subjectively they appear to wick more effectively - Patagonia's Regulator 2 is an example - possibly because they are behaving like pile, where one theory has it the tips of the fibres dry faster thereby making you warmer and accelerating further drying. Hard to know if that's correct, but the fluffy fabrics work, though you do lose wind resistance as a trade off.

Thermal Pro?

Polartec Thermal Pro started off as an exclusive Patagonia fabric under the name 'Regulator'. It uses fluffy pile-type construction or cunning grid designs to produce fleece that is extremely warm for its weight and bulk and, coincidentally, looks good too. Initially it came in just three weights, but there are now loads of different versions including 'Special Editions'. Probably the warmest fleece per gramme or cubic cm. Makes it ideal for lightweight backpacking or trekking when the fleece will be used mainly for warmth when stopped.


Cut and Design

A lot of fleece is simply cut as a loose-ish fitting jacket. That's fine for the pub or looking good on the high street, but for mountain use a snugger, closer fit will be more efficient and hold warm air close to the body as well as wicking more effectively. Draw strings at waist and hem will help to stop air movement and a close-fitting cuff will also add to efficiency. A few technical fleeces have an integral hood - Karrimor Alpiniste, ME Mountain jacket, Montane Alpine for example - which can work well, particularly for stop start conditions.

In A Nutshell

For UK use, we wouldn't bother with thick mid-weight or heavier fleeces for active use - sitting around in the tent or pub is a different matter though - and we's also steer clear of windproof and waterproof fleece fabrics for now. In our experience they're simply too warm, too heavy and too clammy. Our ideal would be a snug fitting but non-restrictive garment made from one of the wind-resistant fleeces which retains good breathability but takes the edge off the wind.

For foreign trekking, Polartec's Thermal Pro is a good bet, but you could also look at synthetic or down-filled insulating tops which may well be warmer for a lower weight and smaller pack size.


Buyers guides in association with eVent Fabrics
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