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 REVIEWS 07 / 02 / 03
 

Real World Breathables Shoot Out

Most media tests of breathable fabrics are pretty random - testers use a jacket on and off for a while in different conditions, form an opinion of how it performs against other fabrics, then publish it.

Alternatively, you can take a look at the results from laboratory tests - and we're going to list some of those below - but it's hard to relate how, say heating water on a hot plate then seeing how long it takes to transfer through a fabric, relates to real life use.

So, we thought we'd try and create a real life test that would give a better idea of how the three allegedly most breathable fabrics on the market performed in the real world, under the same conditions, on the same day.


The Test

We took Gore's New Paclite, Lowe Alpine's pre-production eVENT and Paramo's latest directional fabric and wore them over a high performance wicking base layer. We then walked at a fast pace, using a heart rate monitor to make sure the level of effort was the same in each case, up a steepish slope onto Bleaklow in the Peak District - see map. We didn't test XCR partly because we know that the New Paclite is more breathable and partly because walking up the same hill four times is quite dull.

The climb took approximately 30 minutes and, on the way up, we stopped at ten-minute intervals to check for internal condensation, for the dampness of the baselayer and assess how we actually felt in terms of comfort - clammy, hot etc.

At the top, we stopped for two minutes, chatted to the local sheep, made some notes. Because the test was actually quite harsh - the idea was to generate some sweat - we could then reverse the route checking every five minutes to see how things were drying out, assessing comfort etc.

Although under normal conditions we would have vented the garments for comfort, to make things fair, we wore them all fully zipped up and closed at wrists and neck. We also wore a pack to see if there was any difference in comfort under it. In the event, our back always got damp and took longer to dry out than any other area. No surprise there then.

Heart rate was between 135 and 145 bpm on the ascent and around 100 bpm on the descent. Tester's resting pulse approximately 41 bpm, maximum 184 bpm.Air temperature around 7 C, breezy.


eVENT

What is it? eVENT is a new fabric that Lowe Alpine is introducing for Winter 2003. Like Gore-Tex it uses a PTFE membrane, but Lowe claim that it's appreciably more breathable than existing Gore fabrics like XCR and Paclite. Visually it looks just like any other 3-ply fabric.

The reason for this is the construction. With Gore fabrics, the PTFE membrane is protected by a PU layer that prevents contamination from body oils, sun cream and the like. Without this layer - it was tried in the form of Activent - the membrane was extremely breathable but contamination caused 'reverse osmosis' so, basically, it passed moisture the wrong way and leaked.

eVENT claims to get round this by incorporating the protective layer within the structure of the membrane. So no PU layer to get in the way and slow moisture transmission but no contamination either.

The figures Lowe has released some test data which suggests that 3-layer eVENT has a lower RET - 4.5 - than 3-layer Gore XCR - 5.1 - which means in lab tests it was more breathable. It also has a higher Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate at 15,000 to 19,000 compared to XCR's 12,000 to 14,000. Just to throw a cat amongst the pigeons though, Gore has figures suggesting that New Paclite has an RET of just 4.0, which would mean in that test it was more breathable than eVENT.

To complicate things a bit more, Lowe says that the RET tests are unfair to eVENT. We could go on explaining this for ages, but the bottom line is that eVENT is clearly a contender. See this article for more info. And if you'd like to try eVENT for yourself, click on the advert on the right of this screen or follow this link.


The Lowdown

We wore a Lowe Alpine three-ply eVENT jacket over one of Lowe's Dryflo baselayers.

10 minutes After ten minutes uphill effort the baselayer was still dry and there was no condensation on the inside of the jacket though the area under the pack harness and back was becoming moist and there was a slight feeling of clamminess.

20 minutes After 20 minutes the tester was beginning to feel slightly sweaty. The inside of the jacket was still dry though it was damp under the elasticated cuffs (non breathable) and under the pack.

30 minutes The top. The tester worked harder for the final five minutes to try and produce some condensation. The inside of the fabric was still dry however, though the mesh linings of the pockets were damp and the base layer moist - 4 on a scale of 1-10. A noteboook in the tester's pocket had some condensation and the area under the pack was damp and clammy. Tester said he was still comfortable, but beginning to feel clammy after the hard effort.

5 minutes down Less effort and the tester had stopped sweating. The base layer was judged to be down to '3' in moistness. The only only internal condensation was under the pack and behind the Velcro storm flap fasteners which emphasised how well the rest of the garment was working. The mesh liner of the pocket was still damp. Tester comfortable.

10 minutes down eVENT fabric dry, no condensation. The mesh pocket was still damp however, the baselayer was down to '2' and almost dry. Only the condensation under the pack gave a slightly clammy feel.

15 minutes down Still damp under pack but elsewhere almost completely dry, baselayer down to '1' and tester was comfortable.

20 minutes down Dry except for the area under the pack which was still a little damp, even the mesh had dried now. The tester was very comfortable and the baselayer was dry.


Conclusion We had to work pretty hard to get the eVENT to feel clammy and even then there was no significant condensation inside the material beyond the mesh and Velcro patches and under the elastic of the cuffs. It also dried quickly on the way down, with just the pack defeating it. The mesh lining of the pockets needs looking at, but as it's a pre-production jacket, that's not a problem.
New Paclite

What is it? New generation Paclite fabric appearing in the shops about now. We've been using this for more than six months now and we're very impressed. The polymer dots on the old Paclite have been replaced with a charcoal grey liner that protects the membrane from contamination.

At the launch, Gore suggested that the lining also has a buffering effect - absorbing moisture before it's transmitted through the membrane, so reducing condensation and upping comfort. Gore's RET figure is lower than the one Lowe quote to eVENT, but we don't have an MVT figure for the New Paclite fabric. More here or see this section of the Gore site.


The Lowdown

We used a 270-gramme Berghaus Paclite Smock for this test over the latest Berghaus Powerdry baselayer.

10 minutes Tester felt moist and clammy particularly around the arms and under the rucksac, some of this may have been due to the slightly thinner baselayer 'holding' less perspiration. The baselayer was 3 out of 10 for moistness, but the inside of the Paclite material was dry apart from over taped seams which showed some condensation.

20 minutes Tester still feeling hot and clammy, baselayer now quite moist at around 4 out of 10, condensation still on seam taping and under sac at back, but no condensation on the rest of the fabric.

30 minutes At the top, the baselayer was now quite damp at around 5 out of 10, there was more condensation on the taped areas, but the rest of the fabric was still just about dry. Tester felt warm and clammy particularly under the pack, which was very damp.

5 minutes down Baselayer moistness had dropped from 5 to 3, inside of fabric was dry and the tapes seams were better. Tester felt comfortable again. Only the area under the pack was damp.

10 minutes down Incredibly the baselayer was dry again and except for the back area, there was no condensation on the inside of the garment at all. Tester comfortable.

20 minutes When the garment was removed, there was only a slight trace of dampness under the pack, the rest of the top was bone dry as was the baselayer top. Pretty impressive.


Conclusion This was a pretty harsh test and on the way up, the tester felt he was slightly less comfortable than when using the eVENT, though there was very little in it. Sweating will always feel clammy, no matter how breathable the garment. The real revelation though, was just how fast the New Paclite jacket allowed the damp baselayer to dry out on the way down. The slightly thinner baselayer may have had less moisture capacity, making it feel damper, but it cleared rapidly and, with time, completely, even under the pack.

Interestingly, Berghaus has measured the internal humidity of a New Paclite garment relative to a standard Gore top and found that humidity did rise faster initially than with the standard fabric, but it also cleared faster once the terrain flattened out, which is broadly the same as we found.


Paramo Directional System

We decided to include the Paramo because users rave about its breathability and we wanted to see if the latest membranes had closed the gap. The latest Paramo has a 25 per-cent lighter 'pump liner' to reduce weight and insulation value, which some users resent.

The system uses a windproof outer fabric over a liner which is claimed to work like animal fur and direct moisture and water away from the body. It's not strictly waterproof and we have no lab figures for its breathability. The Paramo blurb claims that 'conventional waterproof breathable fabrics can only cope with 20 per-cent of the sweat you produce when working hard. For real comfort you need Paramo's Directional Fabrics to pump away the other 80 per-cent'.


The Test

We used Paramo's new Aspira Jacket with 25 per-cent lighter pump liner. We hoped that the lighter fabric would make it less warm than previous Paramo kit. Worn over the latest Mountain Equipment Comfort Zone base layer.

10 minutes The Apsira gave instant warmth which was good, but things were getting hot as a result and the baselayer was already on 3 out of 10 for moistness. Forehead sweaty too. No internal condensation.

20 minutes Tester feeling hot and sweaty, clammy on back - pack - and arms for some reason. Baselayer up to 4 for moistness, felt humid and warm inside jacket, but still no condensation on actually Paramo fabric except for under the elasticated wrists.

30 minutes After working hard to the top, the baselayer had reach 5 out of ten and was feeling quite damp with a hot, sweaty tester inside. A camera in the pocket of the jacket had condensation forming on its screen emphasising that quite a lot of vapour was being pumped out.

5 minutes down In contrast to the membranes which both cleared moisture from the baselayer fast, the Paramo was still around to 5 out of 10. In its favour the extra warmth meant that though the tester felt damp over the skin, he wasn't cold.

10 minutes down Slight drying of baselayer to 4 out of 10, but still moist and warm inside. Female assistant tester unimpressed by dampness - 'Yuk'.

15 minutes Baselayer still damp - 3-4 - though again, there was no condensation on the inside of the Paramo fabric. Felt damp and humid inside the jacket.

20 minutes Still moist though improving slowly.


Conclusion It may be that the format of this test - no venting, hard, uphill work - was tough on Paramo, but we were surprised at how slowly the damp baselayer top dried out once we were headed downhill with minimal exertion. It wasn't what we expected, though we did think that the extra warmth of Paramo would make it on the hot side when heading up. On the plus side, the soft drape of the material was comfortable and there was no condensation on the inside of the main fabric. If nothing else, it shows how important venting is.


Overall Conclusion

This was a pretty tough test and if you move relatively slowly or run on the cool side, we reckon all three of these fabrics will do the job for steady walking. That wasn't what we were testing for though and the results backed up what we expected from using both eVENT and New Paclite for mountain biking and running.

The bottom line seems to be that eVENT is slightly more comfortable and less clammy than New Paclite when working hard and pumping out the calories, but the Gore fabric has a slight edge once the hard work stops and it's time to dry out. We're not entirely sure why, but we suspect it's down to the buffering effect of the Paclite's liner layer.

They're very, very close in performance though and most people would be happy with either. Of course though, Paclite is a lightweight fabric while this version of eVENT is aimed squarely at Gore's XCR. Given that we know New Paclite is more breathable than three-ply XCR, we reckon eVENT is too, which means that Gore has a fight on its hands.

Finally, Paramo lived up to its claims to minimise condensation - there was none - but its warmth made the tester sweat more than the other fabrics and it took longer than either to dry the damp base layer on the descent. Of course there's more to Paramo than just breathability, but on the basis of this test, we were disappointed and surprised at its performance.



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Discuss this article, 1 of 27 messages, read more:
Andrew Whaley 
Posted: 11/02/03 08:38:49 49
Having read Jon's article, it sounds like these new Paclite III waterproofs are the dogs bo**ocks.

Does anyone have any recommendations on which would be best for running in ? The Berghaus smock looked very lightweight in the photos but didn't appear to have any manual venting, e.g. front and rear horizontal vents like the Concurve Extend or venting pockets or 'pit zips'.

Does anyone know of a Paclite III jacket or smock that is both lightweight and has lots of vents ?
Read more...
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