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 TRAVEL FEATURES 12 / 07 / 04
 

Pacific Crest Journal 3

Travel features in association with
Explore

John Manning of TGO Magazine is off in the States walking the 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail, quite a few of you were wondering how he's getting on with the bears, the through hikers and the cacti, so here's the here are the third and fourth of his updates from the trail plus three pics of him looking distinctly trail hardened and unshaven :-) Donations of shaving equipment via OM....

For more information about the PCT, see the Pacific Crest Trail Association web site. Unfortunately John hasn't been able to send us many pics, but if you want an idea of the sort of awesome scenery he's hiking right now, check out this picture gallery :-)


Greetings all from the PCT once again. Again, internet access time is very limited so here goes!

Into the Sierra Nevada

Have now hit the Sierra Nevada proper and after a rest/re-supply day at Kennedy Meadows entered the most stunning mountain range I've yet come across. The contrasts between the desert sections and the Sierras is completely overwhelming. Snow covered peaks abound, but fortunately not enough snow to delay things - only the beers do that!

Three or four days back we hit the John Muir Trail, which we're walking backwards (ie North) and this really is the highlight of the trail so far. A day's side trip took a few of us up Mt Whitney, highest peak in the 48 lower states. Altitude caused the odd dizzy spell (on descent) but it really was a moving experience - the views from the summit were incredible - mountains everywhere we could see, and the most breathtaking ones at that.

The following day came Forester Pass, highest stage of the PCT and the most intimidating; we had to cross several large snowfields to reach the switch-back approach to the pass, and the trail was indefinable from a distance, and the pass itself seemed impossibly steep and unreachable. But the trail here is a wonderful piece of engineering and despite a labourious pull-up it wasn't as impossible as it appeared. One last steep snow bank meant I used the ice axe - for less than two minutes. It'll probably be shipped home in the morning!

I'm now resupplying in Bishop, then hitching 50 miles back south to Onion Valley to rejoin the trail for a party by Rae Lakes with other PCTers.

Mind That Snake...

Recent highlights (from the last few weeks) include coming across a deadly Mojave Green Rattlesnake right by the trail - companion Chance just missed stepping oin it - and a light snow flurry about six days ago, the only precipitation we've had all trip. Must be the fairest weather seen on the PCT for years. Have also encountered some real trail magic - including an impromptu "resort" at Bird Springs pass where a trail angel set up a feeding station in the desert, with sodas, sarnies, crisps and much more...

My very good friend Robin also provided wonderful trail magic by sending Kitkats and Kendal Mint Cake to Kennedy Meadows, among other treats! Looking forward to seeing you Robin, and new husband Paul - a million congrats - somewhere around Highway 50 in two or three weeks - and to rejoining Ian, hopefully we'll all get some miles hiked together!

The fun never ends!


And the latest instalment as John is KOed with a bad back :-(

Greetings all,

Here courtesy of Pathfinder are three pics of yours truly sur le trail. Am currently holed up at Pooh Corner, Truckee, with a bad back. Lots of painkillers. Internet access is on a tiny lap top so I'm not going to bust a gut with an update (sorrreeeee) but will attempt something very soon!

Hope you can open the pictures (they're quite small) and hope you enjoy them.

Just to say that things other than the back are going fine - the back 'went' yesterday morning as I was breaking camp and I managed to hike 26 miles on it to reach Pooh Corner, another Trail Angel haven run by Bill and Molly Person.;

Last week I took some down days with good friend Robin and her new husband Paul; went kayaking, hiking with their good friend (now my good friend also!) Sheri, went out for various meals, visited Ian's brewery, celebrated July 4th in Colfax and generally had the best few days of the whole trail so far. Came just at the right moment as I was starting to feel run down physically and emotionally - there are only so many trees, lakes and mountains a chap can take in in such a short time! Can't thank Paul and Robin enough!

Since then the trail has proved superb one again - and now the back lets me down. Ho hum...

PS: still ain't seen no bears!!!!


John Manning


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