|
Aonach Eagach Ridge -
Glencoe, West Highlands
|
|
Grade: 2 or 3
|
|
Overview: Long and exposed knife-edged
ridge traverse that runs down one side of Glencoe, think
Crib Goch on steroids. Stunning views across to the Three
Sisters and down to the road below with Matchbox cars. There
are no safe escape routes once you're committed to the
ridge. The route isn't technically hard, but is incredibly
exposed. In winter it's a grade III climb.
|
|
Equipment: Ropes, slings and
nuts/hexes possibly useful for exposed sections with
novices.
|
|
On line
map link
|
|
Views: 4* - tremendous atmosphere with
views across and into Glencoe.
Technicality: 3 - hardest section is the initial downclimb
from Am Bodach
Exposure: 4 - guidebooks say 'airy' we say 'scary' ;-)
|
|
GIBBER FACTOR*
*out of
five.
|
|
|
|
|
The Aonach Eagach, or "Notched Ridge", is arguably the finest
ridge traverse on the British mainland. A full crossing of the ridge
is an all-day undertaking, and once committed there's no turning
back.
The knife edge crest between Am Bodach and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh is
totally exposed, with stunning views down into Glencoe and across to
the Three Sisters, and there's no safe escape route. Traditionally
the route is taken East to West, as the approach to Am Bodach is an
easier proposition than starting from the West - although the lure of
the Clachaig Inn at the end may also have an influence.
Approach There are several approaches to the Aonach Eagach.
The classic route starts at the car park at NN173
567, just west of Allt-na-ruigh. The path leads from the car park
up the South-East shoulder of Am Bodach.
Alternative starts include an ascent of A'Chailleach from "The
Study", at the eastern end of the Aonach Eagach. If using this
approach head for the small hut on the right hand side of the crag,
then take your choice of route over a series of slabs and short
climbs to the conspicuous "orange band".
At the orange band take the furthest right of the three small
chimneys then continue along a large ledge and past the obvious
boulder to an easy climb up to the ridge.
Route
Follow the south-east shoulder of Am Bodach, with a wide
choice of terrain from steep walking to scrambling up the small
outcrops - depending on what you want to do. On reaching the summit
of Am Bodach (943m) the route becomes obvious as the knife edge
running away to the West.
Once you leave the summit you soon reach the point of no return,
with a steep climb down a series of ledges on the right hand side. As
you approach a rock tower look out for the large boulder, where you
should drop down to your left. The route down now trends left
following an obvious path on slightly loose rock before a slab is
reached on the right. Take the slab down to an old post and much
easier ground onto the main ridge.
|
|
|
Superb views across to
the Three Sisters opposite
|
From this point the ridge offers little choice along the edge as
you climb to the summit of
Meall Dearg. From this point on not
only is there no easy return, but many of the difficulties are also
unavoidable, with mind-blowing drop-offs to both sides.
The section between Meall Dearg and Stob Coire Leith is
what gave the crest its name "Notched Ridge", as a series of drops
and pinnacles serrate the edge. Along this section "keep left" is
generally the easiest way to avoid those difficulties, though the
path should be obvious in anything but snow.
Follow the narrow crest of the ridge to a short gully, which can
be taken direct or avoided to the left and continue to the col.
Scramble back up the other side on solid slabs and continue ahead,
passing a line of small pinnacles to the left - or take them direct
if you don't mind the exposure, especially on the descent from the
final one.
Continue along the exposed ridge as it narrows and approaches the
"Crazy Pinnacles". This is the most exposed part of the route,
and there is no way of circumventing these pinnacles, but the rock is
solid and the holds obvious.Once past the final pinnacle you have a
choice of keeping slightly to the right or taking the "Easy" grade
climb back up the other side of the gap to regain the ridge.
From here the ridge is obvious and mainly flat as it twists along
to the final summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaith, via Stob Coire Leith.
Descent
To descend to the Clachaig Hotel: continue past the summit
of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and trend left towards the ovious shoulder.
Just beyond the tip of Clachaig Gully a steep, loose path follows the
shoulder down on the right of the gully. DANGER - this route down is
steep, unstable and at the end of a long hard day can be particularly
dangerous.
To descend to Glencoe: from the summitt of Sgorr nam
Fiannaidth continue on the ridge for about 650 metres to a small
summit then go North-West over Cnap Glas to a col. Turn left here and
follow an obvious path down to the road. Turn Right for Glencoe or
left for the Clachaig Hotel.
To descend to Loch Antriochtan: a scree hollow on the south
flank of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh offers a steep but direct route down to
the Loch. Keep to the left on the descent for easier ground.
WARNING Between Meall Dearg and Stob Corie Leith there are
no safe descent routes.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
Andrew Hardie
