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Crib Goch via Jammed
Boulder Gully and North Ridge (Snowdonia)
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Grade: 1 and 3
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Overview:An alternative appraoch to
Crib Goch, avoiding the crowds on the traditional east
ridge. Jammed Boulder Gully (JBG) adds a grade 3 start to
what would otherwise be a straightforward grade 1
route.
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Equipment: Rope, slings and
nuts/hexes essential, headtorch useful in the gully
depending on the weather/time.
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On line
map link
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Views: 3* - All the classic views
from the Crib Goch ridge..
Technicality: 4 - Commiting moves in JBG
Exposure: 3 - The moves above the boulder in JBG, high on
Dinas Mot, are very exposed. The ridge of Crib Goch is
famously "airy"..
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GIBBER FACTOR*
*out of
five.
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Crib Goch is one of the classic British scrambles, but can get
horrendously busy as a result. The North Ridge is an alternative
approach to the pinnacled main ridge that neatly side-steps the
crowds on the normal route and gives a quiet start from a deserted
Cwm Glas before the potential business of the ridge proper. The
alternative Grade 3 start up Jammed Boulder Gully is for expereinced
scramblers who want to add a bit of spice to the route. The rock is
generally good and stable, and drains well.
The North Ridge tends to dry slower after rainfall, and Jammed
Boulder Gulley in particular can be wet. The other main consideration
is wind, as both the North ridge and the main ridge of Crib Goch are
very exposed.
Approach: For JBG Start - From Pen Y Pass or
Llanberis take the A4086 to Pont y Gromlech (SH629
566) 1.34 miles north west of Pen y Pass. Follow the obvious path
heading straight for the cliffs of Dinas Mot over the stile.
In the centre of the main part of the cliffs is an obvious large
slab, aim for the base of this slab then move right to cross a stile.
Continue round to the first large incut in the face, where a well
defined buttress protrudes. JBG is the left hand gully that defines
the buttress, and is immediately recognised by the large block of
stone jammed midway up.
For North Ridge Start - Follow the above route to
near the base of the main slab on Dinas Mot, then take the scree
slope up to the left to a boulder strewn ravine.Move right and ascend
easy scramling ground to a shoulder on the North Ridge.
Route -
Jammed Boulder Gully - Enter the gully and climb steadily
up on good holds to a large block that halts progress. Pass the block
on its left hand side, then move left onto an obvious, undercut,
slab. Protection is available here using slings round sveral jammed
rocks in the "roof", and are advisable as the initial moves on the
slab are small and not immediately obvious.
The way ahead is through the large gap between the boulders above,
to emerge in a large incut bay. Continue up above the bay on the
right hand rib on good rock, but close to the border between
scrambling and rock climbing, then out onto a final large jammed
block. Climb up through the gap between jammed boulders to emerge on
easier ground and an obvious east line up to the main North Ridge
Route.
North Ridge - The North Ridge is a straightforward grade 1
scramble which starts as a broad grassy ridge and eventually spits you out on the main Crib Goch ridge. The route is always
obvious, sticking to the ridge crest as becomes increasingly rocky.
The ridge narrows to a rib as the angle increases, but the angle
decreases again as it approaches its narrowest part.
Stick carefully to the ridge crest as this is where the rock is
most stable, and continue ahead to join the main Crib Goch ridge
close to the summit. Continue ahead over grade 1 terrain to Bwlch
Coch, Crib y Ddysgl and Snowdon summit from where there is a choice
of descent routes.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
paul collins
