Scramble Route - Curved Ridge

Curved Ridge on Stob Dearg, Buchaille Etive Mor (Highlands)

Grade: 3

Overview: Classic scramble on Buchaille Etive Mor. Mostly non-technical despite the grade, but big, exposed and in a fantastic situation high above Rannoch Moor. Unmissable :-)

Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes recommended for steep section, and with novices throughout.

On line map link

Views: 3* -This is possibly Scotland's most photographed mountain, and that's just from below! By the time you finish the walk in and approach the start the vierws over rannoch Moor are stunning, and they get better and better the higher you go. Add in the famous Rannoch Wall and you'll see why a camera is mandatory on this route... Technicality: 3 - one steep section. Exposure: 3 - 3 (4 with Crowberry Tower finish)

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GIBBER FACTOR* *out of five.

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If you're looking for the next step after the Aonach Eagach, this is the place to go. Buachaille Etive Mor is one of the most recognised sights in British mountaineering, and this route takes you up the sharp end. Although a grade 3, much of the route is straightforward , and with the exception of a single steep section, not technically difficult.

But what it lacks in technicality it more than makes up for in situation and exposure - particularly if you add the Crowberry Tower finish. The sight of Rannoch Moor stretched out 2000ft below is enough enticement to take on this classic scramble, but remember it is a big route and in winter or bad weather is not a nice place to be!

Curved Ridge marks the point where scrambling becomes mountaineering. A long (two-hour) approach is worth the effort to claim one of Scotland's true classics. For a bigger version of this shot of Stob Dearg just click.

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Approach: Park at Altnfeadh (NN 221 563) and take the path towards Lagangarbh Cottage to a Y junction. Take the left hand branch which skirts the base of Stob Dearg, crossing a boulder slope and passing the Great Gulley to reach the obvious Water Slab. the route now turns sharp right, continuing steeply uphill left of the Water Slab and over the scree slope to the start. As you approach the solid rock from the top of the scree slope keep left as you move up to find the easier ground.

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Route: The route starts from a large obvious rectangular block to the left of the main path, just before it reaches the ridge itself. From the block move right then up onto the ridge and across the stream as it descends a slimy gulley.

Now you meet the crest of the ridge, and your way up. Follow the crest of the arete via a series of blocks and ledges on good solid rock, or if you prefer a little less exposure keep left and follow a defined line of zig zags. The exposure of the arete only lasts for about 50 yards before the angle eases and the ground levels to a platform.

Now halfway up Stob Dearg, it becomes a case of walking up a rock staircase, zig zagging right and left to find the ground that suits you most, and aiming for the pyramid peak above. As you approach steeper ground on the crest you reach a gulley, which provides an alternative and easier ascent. Either way, you emerge at a rock strewn paltform with more views over the expanse of Rannoch Moor.

Turn right here onto steeper ground, and climb a series of large steep blocks on good holds. Aim right of the pinnacle high on the wall above, then traverse over and round the back of the pinnacle to another platform. This platform gives access to possibly the hardest part of the route, where you follow a crack up the corner on outward sloping footholds initially, though these soon change to wide ledges.

From the top of the crack move slightly left onto the crest of the arete and easier ground, as Crowberry Tower emerges on the right above you. A cairn marks the end of Curved Ridge, and a choice of ways to the summit. The easiest route follows the right hand side of the obvious gulley ahead to the gap between Crowberry Tower and Stob Dearg. From here a short gulley and easy scramble takes you to the summit.

Crowberry Tower is a superb detour to the main Curved Ridge route. Approach as for the main route to the summit, then follow the path that spirals round the tower to emerge at a small platform with vertical drops on all sides. From the top of the tower reverse your route to the gap between the tower and the main mountain face, and rejoin the main route to the summit..

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Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.