Weekly Scramble Route - Dubh Ridge, Skye

Dubh Ridge, Skye

Grade: 4

Overview: Britain's longest scramble! A glorious 30 degree slab and arete of gabbro rising from the shores of Loch Coruisk for over 3000ft to the summit of Sgurr Dubh Mor!

Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes essential!

Views: 5* - Stunning views down to Loch Coruisk and across to the mainland. From the summit classic views of the Cuillin Ridge. Technicality: 4 Exposure: 3 (4 on the descent from Sgurr Dubh Beag and the arete above)

Approach: It's a long and tiring slog down Glen Sligachan, 10.5 miles with 1700 ft of ascent. The alternative approach from Glen Brittle isn't a lot easier with a choice between 6 miles around the southern edge of the Cuillins or a climb over the Bealach a' Garbh Choire. The best approach is a boat from Elgol across Loch Scavaig then a short walk along the west side of Loch Coruisk - but this needs to be organised well in advance and is normally only available during summer.

Route - The route starts from where the ridge meets the loch shore. Start up a heather filled gully on the left to gain the start of a series of overlapping slabs. A steep start, where a rope is definitely appreciated, leads left then more gradually right to the crest of the ridge.

The next 1500 ft (450m) is delightful scrambling up easy angled slabs interspesed with the odd steep section where slabs overlap. This is the last chance to escape the ridge before reaching Sgurr Dubh Beag, with a route down to the left into An Garbh-Choire. Continue upwards for another 930 ft (285m) on slightly steeper gabbro slabs to just before the summit of Sgurr Dubh Beag. At this point you have the choice between an abseil or a retreat for 100m to an exposed bypass over a grass and scree covered ledge.

The overhanging 65 ft (20m) abseil meets the bypass at bealach between Sgurr Dubh Beag and Sgurr Dubh Mor. From here you have the option of an escape on the right into Coir' a' Chaoruinn or continue upwards to the summit of Sgurr Dubh Beag and the Cuillin Ridge.

Above the bealach the route changes from easy angled slabs to a narrow arete. The way up starts easily enough with steep walking but eventually leads to the east buttress of Sgurr Dubh Mor. Here you need to take a stairway of short ledges on the left hand side till 30ft below the summit, where you meet the crux of the whole route - a steep chimney that rates Moderate in the climbing guides.

Once up the chimney a short walk leads to the true summit of Sgurr Dubh Mor. From the summit a short scramble down leads to the summit of Sgurr Dubh an da Bheinn. At the obvious gap on the right hand side of the ridge a descent into Coir' an Lochan gives access back to Loch Coruisk.