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 REVIEWS 02 / 02 / 06
 

Rab Belay Jacket Tested

Rab Belay Jacket Tested

Price: £130

Weight: 635 grammes (medium)

Features: Primaloft filled jacket with 133g weight insulation in body and 100g weight in arms, full hem draw cord, full-length zip and insulated tab-down hood, four outer pockets and one inner, water-resistant zips throughout, wired peak, fleece-lined chinguard, elasticated cuffs. Pertex lining,

Looks good, works well in UYK conditions.
You may need to size up.


The Concept Belay jackets are aimed at climbers but also work well for winter walking and even mountain biking. The idea is that you generate heat when moving, so you can dress light, but when you stop, you throw on your insulated belay jacket over your normal layers for instant warmth and no fiddling with layers of fleece and shell. It works really well with soft shell.
Features Essentially it's a simple idea, you get two grades of water-resistant Primaloft, one in the body and a lighter grade in the arms for easier movement. There's an oversized hood with a wired peak, loads of pockets and neat, water-resistant zips everywhere. The outer is windproof and water resistant and the liner is a fine Pertex.
In Action The Rab Belay Jacket looks great on a hanger - slick and black with neat water-resistant zips, which is great, but it works just as well as it looks. We've used it for walking, mountaineering and biking and it's superb.

Rab Belay JacketBang it in a stuff sac and it takes up relatively little space and at just over 500 grammes it's ligtht too. But it's also deceptively warm once you do throw it on with extra protection from the windproof outer.

Because Primaloft is water repellant, it's ideal for UK conditions as well giving a down-like performance without the same vulnerability to damp. In other words, it's much more knockabout and if it happens to pour with rain when you're wearing it, it's no great problem as it'll dry quickly and still retain a decent level of insulation. We even wore it for active use in serious sub-zero temperatures and found it practical and unrestrictive. The Pertex Endurance outer also helps when things get gnarly.

The hood is a boon as well, especially as it fits over a climbing helmet, meaning it is a truly useful jacket when used for climbing. One thing to watch out for here is that it uses Rab's standard 'Active' cut which means it's quite close fitting. If you intend to layer it over bulky clothing, you may need to go up a size. What else? Er, the zip garages on the pockets are slightly under-sized, but really that's just nit-picking.


Verdict


We love this jacket, it works brilliantly and looks great too and the Primaloft filling makes it ideally suited to UK conditions. Belay jackets are ideal if you run hot when moving but cool down rapidly once you stop and the excellent hood on the Rab once simply ups the versatility. Top kit, it's our favourite insulated jacket and makes the softshell idea make a lot more sense.


Performance

Value


Rab web site


Pushed for time Brilliant Primaloft insulated belay jacket for throwing on when you're stopped and stowing once you're moving. The insulation does the business in damp UK conditions and the hood goes over a climbing helmet. You may need to size up if you want to layer it over bulkier clothing.


Know more or want to?

If you'd like to add your own experiences of this product check out our user review system and post your opinions to the world. If you have questions you can mail us direct, ask Richard Gear or try a posting to our gear forum.


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Discuss this article, 1 of 3 messages, read more:
katie Coyle 
Posted: 09/01/08 16:51:28 28

Hello,

I am going for a winter mountaineering course in Scotland and need to layer up.  Would you have advice on a mid layer ie a (Mountain hardwear) monkey man V's (Montane) Jagular Vs (Haglof) huskey .

Also I need advice on Belay Jackets Rab V Haglof ?

Thanks!

Read more...
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