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Castle Ridge. Ben
Nevis - West Highlands
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Grade: 4 (Scottish scrambling
system)
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Overview: The easiest of the classic
ridges of Ben Nevis, this is a great introduction to Ben
Nevis without the crowds in the stunning surrounds of the
north face of Britain's highest peak.
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Equipment: Ropes and protection
strongly advised in the top section.
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Online Map link
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Views: 4
Technicality: 4 -
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR*
*out of
five.
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Overview The easiest of the classic ridges of Ben Nevis, this is
a great introduction to ben Nevis without the crowds.
The approach takes you to the heart of Scottish scrambling and
climbing, with the towering North Face and it's classic and
historical lines dominating everything around.
The 2,950ft of ascent marks this route out as a major undertaking,
and though lying somewhere between Ledges and Tower Ridge in
technical terms. The route can be easily divided into two distinct
parts, with easy scrambling lower down giving way to a steep and
exposed upper half.
Note: In winter conditions, Castle Ridge is traditionally a
grade II winter route with the chimney section given grade III and
the approaches are sometimes threatened by avalanche danger, so it's best left to experienced winter mountaineers.
Approach rom the car park near
Torlundy,
follow the sign-posted path to join the Allt a' Mhuillinn. Keep the
stream to your left and ascend into the obvious bowl of Corrie Leis
towards the Charles Inglis Clark (CIC) Hut. Castle Ridge is the first
of the great ridges on the North Face as you approach via the Allt a'
Mhuillin. The route starts from the gully below the large buttress
called "The Castle".
Route - Start at the mouth of the gully on a rock slab
platform above the obvious large boulder, and take on the ridge
directly. The route meanders from side to side initially, avoiding
steeper more difficult sections as when you want, and moving
generally left as you ascend.
Route selection is easy here on a wide and easy-angled ridge crest
with a multitude of available choices to suit your ability. Take
advantage of this easy section to move the pace along as things
change dramatically quite soon.
The ridge leads up to a point where you can look down into the
gully on your left as the ridge narrows. Follow the narrowing ridge
up, moving right at a large slab to arrive at the base of a steeper,
more exposed section.
Start up the corner of two big blocks on small but good holds on
the right, then make a couple of exposed moves onto a higher,
steeper, block. Now make for the obvious wide ledge above leading to
a short steep climb up a narrow chimney.
This puts you back on the ridge crest, which initially narrows
before widening again as it reaches the summit plateau and hopefully
rewarding views.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
