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North Buttress of Ben Alder, Scotland
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Grade: 2/3
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A superb scramble in an isolated location, for those who really want to get away from it all.
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Equipment: Ropes and protection
required.
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Online Map link
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Views: 3
Technicality: 4
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*out of
five.
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Overview A superb route for those who really want to get away from it all. Ben Alder is superbly isolated, and as well as the route outlined below has a choice of ridge scrambles of lower grade on the North and North East spurs. Being so isolated means a long approach walk, or making use of one of the two nearby bothies. For this route the best approach is from Culra Bothy.
Approach Starting from Culra Both head South East along the Allt a'Chaoil-reidhe towards Bealach Dubh. As you approach Meall an t-Slugain move right of the waterfalls and past the large slabs to the start of the buttress.
Ben Alder from Richard Kermode's Scottish Highlands album
Route On the right hand side of the blunt nose that forms the start of the buttress the rock is stained a rust colour. Start up here and aim for the grassy ledge that runs right to left. On reaching the ledge follow it left past the main buttress wall to an easier second wall. Take this directly to an obvious ramp. From the ramp take the obvious large crack to join a more vegetated continuation of the ramp. Eventually the ramp levels out as you approach the crest. Now turn right onto the slabs and climb to where the angle of the buttress increases. Take the right hand side of the crest to a final wall, where the route follows the corner up to the main plateau. Continue up on the right hand side to reach the top.
Ben Alder from www.edwardboyle.com
Descent The easiest descent is down the western shoulder, but for a return to the bothy it's best to downclimb the grade 1 scramble 'Short leachas' on the eastern spur of the main North Ridge.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
