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Pinnacle Ridge of Garbh Bheinn,
Western Highlands
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Grade: 3
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This particular Pinnacle Ridge takes
you away from the honeypots of Scottish scrambling and Munro
bagging to the far side of Loch Linnhe, and the Corbett of
Garbh Bheinn, with stunning views across to
Ballachulish.
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Equipment: Ropes and protection
required.
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Online Map link
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Views: 4
Technicality: 4
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*out of
five.
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Overview You could almost certainly write a book of 100 scrambles
called Pinnacle Ridge, the name's so - understandably - popular.
This particular one takes you away from the honeypots of Scottish
scrambling and Munro bagging to the far side of Loch Linnhe, and the
Corbett of Garbh Bheinn.
With a 1000ft north-east face and stunning views across to
Ballachulish it makes an ideal escape from the crowds.
Approach Start from
Glen
Tarbert where an old road heads north alongside the Abhainn
Coire an-lubhair, just beyond Inversanda. Follow the path along the
right hand bank of the river for 3/4 of a mile to the Allt a' Gharbh
Choie Mhorwhere you turn left.
As you approach the obvious tree, just beyond an overhanging wall
on your right, the grass bank on your right leads up to the rocky
start that marks the beginning of Pinnacle Ridge.
Route Head straight up the rocky toe of the ridge, picking
your own route over easy scrambling ground with good holds and grippy
rock in abundance. After reaching what is little more than a bump on
the ridge a short descent takes you to a tiny lochan.
Climb again, picking your own route as the rock degenerates into
boulders as you approach an obvious buttress ahead. The buttress is
approached by trending left over a short rib, and once established on
the butress move left again to avoid the dark recess in the centre.
Now move right on grassy ledges to a steep and exposed move over
two large blocks to another ledge with an obvious groove above. Take
the groove on, moving left to gain another vegetated ledge below a
large hanging boulder.
Move left as you climb past the boulder to another groove
following the same left-trending direction. Now the ground becomes
easier and holds more abundant as the ridge temporarily levels.
Continue along the ridge crest as it narrows into a classic arete,
and pass right of the final large tower. The route now remains
obvious as you traverse the ridge crest, with an awkward and exposed
step onto a small ledge the only difficulty.
The end is almost in sight as you reach a slippery, grass-covered,
groove where the angle steepens. Follow the groove to a point where
you can exit left onto better ground and continue along the ridge
crest.
The ground now levels out into a large vegetated terrace with an
enormous slab on the left. Take the slab directly on superb rock with
holds everywhere to emerge on the final section of crest.
A left turn at the top takes you to the summit of Garh Bheinn and
expensive vistas in all directions, with the Mamores and Nevis Range
dominating to the north east.
Descent The best descent route is south east over the second,
lower, summit to the ridge of Sron a Garbh Choire Bhig. Follow the
ridge down to meet the road just a few yards away from your start
point.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
