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Bheinn a Bheithin, Western Highlands
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Grade: 1/2
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A superb horseshoe in classic surroundings overlooking Loch Leven and Glencoe village, with a more strenuous alternative route joining the ridge half way along.
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Equipment: Ropes and protection
required.
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Online Map link
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Views: 4
Technicality: 2
Exposure: 2
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GIBBER FACTOR* 2
*out of
five.
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Overview Not just a scramble with stunning views, but a superb horseshoe in classic surroundings overlooking Loch Leven and Glencoe village. For those wanting a little more strenuous and demanding scrambling we also incude an alternative route to join the summit ridge half way round the horseshoe.
Ballachulish horseshoe, by Gary Johnston, from Glencoe '06
Approach The horseshoe of Bheinn a Bheithir dominates the western approach to Glencoe, with its three summits of Sgorr Bhan, Sgorr Dhearg and Sgorr Dhonuill. The best approach is from the eastern end of the horseshoe, avoiding the forested western flanks. From Ballachulish follow the signpost "Public Footpath to Creran" and continue along the track running on the west side of the River Laroch. Pass the gate and approach the obvious east north east ridge.
Sgorr Bhan Summit at Sunset, by Matthew Wood
from Mat goes Mountain Mad
Route The ridge starts off grassy and wide, but as it starts to narrow the vegetation makes way for bare rock. Interestingly the rock runs sideways to the ridge itself, giving a series of ledges and short steep sections as the crest is followed upwards. There are no particular difficulties, though the ridge narrows in places to form a true arete. Initially the rock is quite shattered, but towards the top the ground changes both its nature and colour. As the rock gets apparently cleaner and whiter it also becomes more stable on the final approaches to the main summit ridge.
From the summit of Sgorr Bhan, the first of two Munros on this route, continue along the ridge to Sgorr Dhearg. From here descend to a bealach then scramble up easy ground past the ridge to Sgurr a Chaolais to Sgorr Dhonuill, the scrambling getting slightly more interesting, but never demanding, on the final summit approach. If time and inclination allows there is the option of detouring onto the Sgurr a Dhonuill Ridge, but this is best tackled from below using the alternative scramble given below.
Wind sculptures on Sgorr Dhearg, by Matthew Wood
from Mat goes Mountain Mad
Descent Beyond Sgorr Dhonuill continue along the ridge to an obvious grassy gully on the right at NN 286 560. This leads down alongside the stream to join one of the main paths heading north through the plantation to join the A82 at the forest trails car park.
Alternative Route From the forest path crossroads at NN 044 569 follow the stream over wet ground moving south east to a gap in the fence, emerging onto the moorland ahead. A series of small cairns identify the approach alongside the stream. A stile over a newer fence now allows access to the lower end of Sgorr a' Chaolais. Take the first rocky rib to a path that leads directly onto the second rib with a gully to the left. Take the rib crest directly, mixing vegetated and shattered ground. The rib narrows in places, with intermittent steep, but short, sections as it climbs to a shoulder below the summit. The vegetation now takes over again, with occossional rocky outcrops to keep the interest up before the ridge degenerates into boulders on the final climb to the summit.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
Frank
