The Alpine Season - Chamonix

The Chamonix Valley's one of the most popular mountaineering bases in the summer, so we decided it was time to catch up and run an article on the area. Here's where to go, what to take, when, how, where ... but not why ... whether you're into climbing or mountaineering. So, if you've recovered from all those 'w's yet, here goes...

While most people can go out for a Sunday afternoon ramble without any special preparation, mountaineering is a different kettle of fish - or a different style of boot - entirely. If you go up to 3000m+ altitudes in the Alps, even in Summer, you're going to be dealing with snow and ice, and possibly crevasses, bergschrunds, rock falls, and other hazards. Special equipment is necessary to stay safe in these conditions, and so is special training. It's not just a question of hiring an ice axe in Chamonix and heading up on to the glaciers. Knowing how - and when - to use it is a must. It's best to have some experience under your fleece-lined belt before you go:-)

If it's raining when you arrive in Chamonix (and there's a good chance of that) you might not see the appeal straight away. If it's clear though, you'll find Mont Blanc looming over you, looking no more than an afternoon's stroll away (don't be deceived). The Aiguille du Midi cable car climbs from Chamonix Village, at just over 1000m, to 3842m in altitude - less than a thousand metres from the summit of Mont Blanc. As a result, Chamonix's a perfect entry point to the wilderness of rock and ice that clusters around Western Europe's highest mountain. In non-guidebook speak, there's a mountaineer's party to be had up there.

The list is as long as your gear wish-list, and much much longer than your abseil rope. Hence, we aren't going to attempt a whistle-stop tour of even the most popular ones. Here are just a few we tried:

Table Rock (Roc de Table) Getting There: Take the Chamonix bus to Le Tour and then climb up to the Albert 1er hut (with a bit of help from the cable car, if you're already well acclimatised). Make an early start from the hut the following morning, as Table Rock's a bit on the loose side and you don't want to be caught by falling rocks in the afternoon. The Route The summit looks the way it sounds - like a granite table, lodged at the top of a rock protrusion above the Tour glacier. It's a lofty peak to aim for, but not all that high, so you can return down the valley to Chamonix the same day. To reach the summit, you cross part of the Tour Glacier, then take off your crampons and climb the granite in mountain boots. There are a choice of routes; we chose a couloir on the south west ridge. The snaps at the top (think jubilant person raising their arms above a weird rock formation) are the stuff of guidebook covers. You might want to take plenty of slings with you to get there.

Dent au Geant Getting There: From Chamonix, take the Aguille du Midi cable car, and then the Helbronner one, to the Torino hut. The Route: With decent visibility, you can't miss the Dent au Geant. The name means 'giant's tooth' and it's an accurate description - a fang of rock really does rear up above the ice. From the Torino hut, cross the glacier to reach the south west edge of the tooth. Then scramble upwards for about an hour and a half until you reach the bottom of the climb. There are large fixed ropes in place most of the way up, which can be used to protect/aid the climb (you see plenty of the latter). If you're climbing the purist way, it's about VS. Full marks for exposure, loftiness... and lightning conduction:-)

Cosmiques Arete

Getting There: Take the Aguille du Midi cable car from Chamonix. The Cosmiques Arete is the ridge to your right (as you ascend), at the level of the cable car.

The Route: Descend the steep snow slope from the cable car (there's a bit of a sheer drop on one side!) Then climb the ridge - the top-out onto the ridge itself is well worth it in clear weather - and traverse back towards the cable car station. The route takes about 2.5 hours in total.

There's a roadside crag just north of Les Houches with long limestone routes and a pub opposite. For a less casual feel, and some routes that top out on genuine summits, we took the La Flegere cable car, and then the chair lift up to Index. There are numerous classic multi-pitch routes a short walk south, with great views of Mont Blanc across the valley. As with mountaineering, the climbing possibilities are endless. For more ideas, have a look at chamonix.net or browse the numerous guide books available.

The climbing wall in Les Houches is easily reached on the Chamonix bus. The emphasis is definitely on overhangs, so if you want an upper body workout, it's not a bad place to be. The downside is that on a wet day, everyone else in Chamonix Valley will have had the same idea.

Chamonix's easily accessible from Geneva by train (about 2 and a half hours; 2 changes) or bus (an hour and a half). The state-run bus network, and a private company, Alpybus, both run a regular service. BA and Easyjet both fly to Geneva, amongst other airlines.

Once you're in Chamonix, you can get a free Chamonix bus pass from your hotel/hostel. Buses run up and down the valley regularly to pretty much everywhere you might want to go. From the bus stop, onward transport is by cable car, mountain bike, foot, and parapent:-)

• 'Aguille' means needle. Almost all the peaks around Chamonix are called the needle of something or other. It's easy to see why when you get there.
• The Mer de Glace, one of seven major glaciers above the Chamonix Valley, contains an estimated 4000 million cubic metres of frozen water (and decreasing rapidly, as it's receding by an estimated 7.5m per year).
• Local climbing etiquette is a little different from in the UK. You're probably used to waiting for routes if they aren't free, or else finding something else to climb. In Chamonix, it's normal to overtake climbers in action instead. You might be rather startled to see a pair of hefty mountaineering boots climbing past you, when you're in your dainty rock shoes finishing off one of your best leads yet. It could well happen though.
• Wine doesn't help the process of rehydration after a day's climb:-)

It goes without saying that mountaineering's a dangerous activity: crevasses are carnivorous, and the Alps are pretty loose in places ie. they throw rocks at you. You need experience to try any of the routes mentioned above, as well as maps and guidebooks, or a qualified mountain guide. Good weather helps as well, although unfortunately you can't be trained to produce it:-) Have a safe time.