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Crescent Climb, Pavey Ark, -
Lake District
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Grade: 3S (moderate graded rock
climb)
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First climbed 99 years ago, this route
takes the opposite end of the grading scale to the ever
popular Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark, joining the grade 1 route
part way up
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Equipment: ropes and protection
equipment essential.
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Online Map link
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Views: 2
Technicality:3
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 4
*out of
five.
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Overview First climbed 99 years ago, this route takes the
opposite end of the grading scale to the ever popular Jack's Rake on
Pavey Ark, joining the grade 1 route part way up. Crescent Climb is
right on the limit of scrambling and is also graded as a Moderate
climb,so shouldn't be taken lightly or without adequate
protection.
Crescent Climb in red joins the green line of
Jack's Rake
part way up. From here you can either descend the rake
or carry on and make a mountain day of it.
Approach From the National Trust
car
park take the path through the gate at the side of the new
Hotel. Continue ahead where the Dungeon Ghyll path exits to the left,
and follow the path alongside Stickle Ghyll, crossing the stream at
the footbridge.
Continue uphill with Stickle Ghyll on your left, over a terrace at
the head of a small waterfall, and onwards to a crossing point. Cross
the stream to the left hand side and complete the ascent to Stickle
Tarn - below.
Take the path to the right around Stickle Tarn to the foot of
Jack's Rake then continue round on a rising path to a terrace. Keep
going left past steep slabs to a rib where the angle eases.
Route The initial part of the climb follows a series of clean
and obvious steps up the crest of the rib, with flakes available for
slings, up to a terrace at around 150ft.
Belay here before continuing up the rib, which is now vegetated
rather than clean as before, to the left of a large overhang. An
exposed move down to the right gives a good flake belay on a small
ledge.
Sound rock gives excellent scrambling
Now move out right on good holds to traverse below the overhang,
rising as you go. This section is very exposed and requires extra
care to reach a grassy rake 50ft away from the start.
Belay again at the far end of the rake for the 80ft of easier
ground ascending to a tree, and belay, just before the route emerges
onto Jack's Rake.
Descent: From here all sorts of options are available, from an
easy descent down Jack's Rake to continuing to the summit of Pavey
Ark via Jack's Rake or Gwynne's Chimney - a 2 pitch Difficult graded
climb.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
