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Wrinkled Tower, Tryfan -
Snowdonia
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Grade: 3
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A superb dry-weather alternative to
the North Ridge of Tryfan - though not for the faint hearted
as it does include moves with gut-wrenching
exposure.
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Equipment: ropes and protection
equipment essential.
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Online Map link
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Views: 2
Technicality:3
Exposure: 4
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GIBBER FACTOR* 4
*out of
five.
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Overview Ideal for those crisp dry winter days, when you want
something with a short walk-in. Wrinkled Tower takes the West face of
Tryfan, making the most of the afternoon sun and in dry weather gives
a superb alternative to the North Ridge which it joins late on -
though it's not a route for the faint hearted as it includes moves
with gut-wrenching exposure.
The North Ridge - Ian Gornall from his
Snowdonia
album
Approach From the lay-by
on the A5 take the path over the stile then move upwards and right
to pass the foot of Milestone Buttress. Continue right, past
Milestone Gully, to a second, large, slabby buttress. At the far end
of the buttress, where the scree starts, the slabs on the left mark
the start of the route.
Route Start up left on slabs with interspersed vegetation to
a series of blocks, which can be taken on the right using a corner.
Now easy ground trends left
towards
a pile of rocks where a small ledge below the nose leads left then
directly up above a spike.
Some 30 foot up, move left by stepping across onto grass, then
ascend more blocks and take the gap above and left to a ledge. From
the enormous flake take the obvious rib on its left hand side to a
shallower blocky rib above, then traverse right for 30 feet.
The next section is the hardest and most exposed, and you need to
pay attention to placing protection carefully. Take the part-blocked
chimney on the left of the tower, then emerge onto a ledge on the
left and follow it round to the left over huge drops.
At the far end of the sloping ledge use a flake to help you
stretch for the ledge above and a good belay. From here move slightly
left to a deep rift and climb to an exposed exit step.
Thirty foot above a large cracked slab gives a final bit of
excitement as you approach the ridge. Take the crack up the centre of
the slab to a final blocky ridge and an easy slab on the left to
emerge on the North Ridge above the cannon.
