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Home > News : Scrambling
Sunday 21 March 2010 | Personalise | Help  
 SCRAMBLING 27 / 11 / 06
 

Scramble Route - Bla Bhein (Blaven), Skye

By Dave Mycroft

Bla Bhein (Blaven), Skye

Grade: 4

A Skye munro with stunning views of the Cuillin that really mark it out as something special.

Equipment: ropes and protection equipment essential.

Online Map link

Views: 4
Technicality: 4
Exposure: 4


GIBBER FACTOR* 4
*
out of five.


Overview
It would be so easy for Bla Bhein to be "the forgotten mountain", like Moel Siabod in Snowdonia. Being a Skye Munro helps boost its image, but the ridge to Clach Glas and stunning views of the Cuillin really mark it out as something special.

Clach Glas and Bla Bheinn - Cath Sullivan from her Cath's Photos album


Approach Use the parking spaces on the west side of Loch Slapin and take the path from NG 561 217 up the right hand side of Allt na Dunaiche. After a mile the South East Ridge of Sgurr nan Each appears on your right to provide your start.


Route The route starts up the ridge to the East summit of Sgurrnan Each, with easy scrambling along the crest. From the summit continue along the ridge, with a short drop and re-ascent, to the West summit. From here turn left and descend to the bealach above Choire a'Caise. The route ahead now takes on a different nature, and the Clach Glas ridge beckons.

Traversing Clach Glas - David Stone from his June05 album

The first wall on the climb up can be avoided by moving left and taking the corner leading to a large slab and upwards to the ridge crest. Follow the ridge crest, with escape routes right at the difficulties to a point above a large gully. At the wall ahead a gully slightly off to the right gives access to 100ft of steep but superb scrambling with solid holds everywhere and the summit of Clach Glas. The views from here in every direction are worth the scramble themselves, although the main objective still lies ahead. The scrambler is naturally drawn to the western view with the Cuillin Ridge dominating everything.

From Clach Glas head south along the ridge, which narrows to become the Imposter. Carefully descend a large slab on the left to the bottom then rejoin the ridge where it temporarily levels out. Once on the ridge crest again continue onwards to the first pinnacle, just beyond a gully, where exposed moves put you on the descent to the Putting Green. The descent to the Putting Green is marked by cairns, but gets steep in places, and requires full on down climbing at times.

From the Putting Green the imposing North East Ridge of Bla Bheinn provides the way on, and care should be taken navigating. A narrow path leads left before twisting back right to reach a narrow gully. Take the back wall of the gully up 15ft of exposed ledges to a scree platform with a path off to the right. Traverse along this path to a sharp left turn into an easy gully. The gully leads to an easy angled scree slope, and a gully on the right - note NOT the gully straight ahead. Take the right hand wall of the gully on small but good holds, then move right again at the top. Take a final easy gully to reach the main ridge crest and a line of cairns to the summit of Bla Bheinn.

Blaven - Kevin Nayor from his Scotland album


Descent: The traditional descent is the East Ridge, though a more complete feel is achieved by skirting the top of the Great Scree Gully to a secondary top and taking the South East Ridge down to Coire Uaigneich.


Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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