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Grade: 3 (easy/mod
climb)
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An ideal route for anyone making the
step up from grade 2 to grade 3 scrambling with easy access
and clean, solid rock that catches the afternoon
sun.
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Equipment: Rope, slings and
nuts/hexes advised.
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Online Map link
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Views: 2
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 3-4
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GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*out of
five.
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Overview If you're making the step up in grades from 2 to 3
there's probably no better place in Britain to make the move than
Tryfan Bach.
Just ten minutes walk from the road this crag gives a choice of
scrambles and easy climbs worthy of a day in their own right or as a
prelude to any of the Heather Terrace routes on Tryfan's towering
East Face.
The rock is clean and solid and the main face makes the most of
the afternoon sun to give a glorious location for an afternoon
scramble, but is generally dry enough to make a morning starter for
routes higher up.
Tryfan's east side by OMer Dave Roberts from his
gallery
album
Approach Park at one of the many laybys on the main road (A5)
or go direct from Gwern Gof Uchaf if camping there. From the farm
take the stile and follow the obvious, signposted, path to the base
of slabby Tryfan Bach at the lefthand end of the east side of the
mountain.
Route Move 30ft along from the far left edge of Tryfan Bach's
main slab to the first obvious diagonal line heading right to left.
After 30ft of ascent you reach a large ledge with a good belay
point, then continue the diagonal line for a further 15 ft to a
second, much smaller ledge and another belay.
Continue left towards the edge of the outcrop to a point where the
slab starts to curve then start to move right. The next 50ft follows
the line of the outcrop crest, staying slightly below, but parallel,
as you follow an obvious line of weakness.
As you finally approach a drop in the crest use the obviously
much-used grooves to climb a short chimney on the right for 15ft to
where it breaks out onto the ridge of Tryfan Bach.
Easier ground over broken rock leads to the final steep nose, with
a groove which gets progressively harder. As the groove starts to
steepen dramatically a crack on the right hand wall allows a delicate
balance move to gain a broken spike.
With the hardest part now behind you the ground gets ever easier
as you follow the crest to the summit of Tryfan Bach. From here you
can access Heather Terrace and the main routes up the East Face of
Tryfan, or go down the east side of the crag on a well worn but
grassy path to return to the roadside.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and,
particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and
equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional
instruction or climb with an experienced partner.
