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Home > News : Scrambling
Friday 19 March 2010 | Personalise | Help  
 SCRAMBLING 12 / 03 / 07
 

Scramble Route - Sron na Lairig, Glencoe

By Dave Mycroft

Sron na Lairig and Beinn Fhada, Glencoe

Grade: 2/1

A fine round trip at the lower end of Glencoe's rich scrambling menu, the route also gives you the option of bagging the Munro of Bidean nam Bein.

Equipment: Rope, slings not necessary.

Online Map link

Views: 4
Technicality: 2
Exposure: 2


GIBBER FACTOR* 2
*
out of five.


Overview
Glencoe is famous for its stunning scenery and wide array of scrambling routes, with classics like Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower, Barn Wall and the Aonach Eagach.

Sron na Lairig and Beinn Fhada provide an alternative at the lower end of the grading scale and a fine round trip with an option to bag the dominating munro of Bidean nam Bein, one of the Three Sisters of Glencoe.


Approach From the A82 Glencoe road take the path that follows Lairig Eilde towards Glen Etive, starting at NN 187 562.

Cross the Allt Lairig Eilde at a ford and continue uphill between Bheinn Fhada on your right and Beauchaill Etive Beag on your left. After fording several tributaries the ridge of Sron na Lairig appears. As you approach the bealach a large slab marks the start of the Sron na Lairig arete.


Route The opening slab gives a variety of routes, picking and choosing your line on how easy or hard you want to make it. Whichever line you select the rock below your feet is solid and grippy.

The slab leads to a wide and well-vegetated platform with much steeper ground above. Move left to avoid this harder ground and ascend again to where the gradient decreases.

As the ridge starts to steepen again the ground becomes more shattered and loose, and care should be taken. Now move upwards to gain the crest of the ridge and be prepared to protect less experienced members as the exposure increases.

A temporary respite comes with a slight levelling of the arete before the crest narrows and the drops to either side become more pronounced.


Richard G's shot of the Three Sisters from his OM album

Finally a tower appears blocking the route to the summit, but a move left here to a steep and grassy gully provides a line onto easier ground and the main summit ridge.

Stob Coire Sgreamhach appears ahead and a pleasant walk along the ridge will take you easily to its summit. Having made it this far it's well worth the extra mile along the ridge, dropping down to the Bealach Dearg then up the other side to summit Bidean nan Bian. Along the way you pass the "Lost Valley" of Coire Gabhail to your right.


Descent Returning to Stob Coire Sgreamhach the descent lies along Beinn Fhada, and is an easier proposition than the ascent route, but still requires a degree of scrambling.

The hardest section comes early in the descent as you drop to the first bealach. The best line follows the right hand side initially, then switches to the left hand side as you approach easier ground. Now follow the undulating ridge between The Lost Valley and Lairig Eilde as you descend.

As you approach the end of the ridge a path breaks off to the right to avoid the steep ridge end and drops you back down easily into the Lairig Eilde. From here just retrace your initial approach to the starting point.


Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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Discuss this article, 1 of 2 messages, read more:
Clive Griffiths 
Posted: 16/04/09 20:55:33 33

This is a cracking winter route - but it does get a bit narrow!

http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/members/images/47203/Gallery/Narrow_bit.JPG


http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/members/images/47203/Gallery/Sron_small.JPG

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