Richard Gear's Latest Answers

Q: What are the pros and cons of switching to a lightweight waterproof jacket, I like the idea of carrying less weight, but I don't want to throw money away on something that will only last a year or so? ?

A: Gear here, Richard 'Disposable' Gear. It seems a long time since a typical mountain shell jacket weighed in at around a kilo, these days even full-on mountaineering shells are getting close to half that weight and it's possible to find minimalist waterproof tops like the Haglofs Oz Pullover that tip the scales at under 200 grammes.

There's no gain - or loss in this case - without pain though and you need to understand the potential pit-falls of going really lightweight before deciding what to buy...
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Q: I am a full-time climbing bum and need a sleeping bag which is warm enough for lowland bivis, bus stations and bedroom floors across Europe throughout most of the year, as lightweight as possible and durable enough to survive constant use. I'd prefer not to spend more than £100 or so. I've been looking at the Alpkit AlpineDream, but am leaning towards the Snugpak Softie or similar for fear of ending up with a sodden, useless down bag that I can't get dry. What would you recommend? ?

 A: The name is Gear, Richard 'Slumbering' Gear, master of the unplanned public-space bivi stop and dedicated bus station crash dummy. Okay, first, the Alpkit bag is excellent value for money, but as you point out, uses down insulation which is less robust than synthetic fills. Also, the Alpine Dream uses an untreated outer shell, so is less resistant to water than some.

If you're prepared to be careful and, particularly, if you team it with a lightweight bivi bag - maybe AlpKits own Hunka bag - and a waterproof stuffsac, then it should do the job and be relatively warm and light too.

The problem is that wet down simply stops working...
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Q: How much do climbing shoes stretch and are there differences in stretch between the makes? Also does the rubber or shape of the shoe make a difference to climbing?

A: The name is Gear, Richard 'Black Toe Nails' Gear. The good news is that modern rock boots stretch far less than they used to - they will still stretch slightly with climbing use, but generally they won't expand several sizes and embark on a voyage from snugness to bagginess.

There will be some variation between brands and different models and minimalist, slipper-type shoes with little stiffness ... '
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