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Grade: 2
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An alternative way up this popular
peak of the Mosedale Horseshoe giving nearly 300 feet of
scrambling and covering steep ground.
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Equipment: Rope and protection
optional - difficulties can be bypassed or added
to.
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Online Map link
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Views: 3
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 2
*out of
five.
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Overview An alternative way up this popular peak of the Mosedale
Horseshoe. Following Black Beck up from the valley gives nearly
2000ft of scrambling and covering steep ground. It's one to save for
a warm summer day, when the rock's at its best and there's a snake of
walkers heading up from Wasdale to Black Sail.
Mosedale - Dave Mycroft
Approach Cross the river behind the Wasdale Head pub and
follow the signposted track into Mosedale. Carry on up the valley,
passing Dorehead Screes until you reach a stream coming down from the
left. This is Black Beck. The route follows the beck and nearby
outcrops to within a few yards of the summit of Red Pike.
Route Initially walk up the beck until it starts to get
steeper and narrower and a fork is reached. Left gives a dry and easy
option, but right leads past a small fall to a steep climb on the
left wall.
Now walk up to the crags above, right of the stream, and take the
rib to a ledge. A short climb in the corner brings you onto the
ridge, which continues past another ledge to an exit left up a groove
and slab.
From here cross Black Beck and aim for the far end of the lowest
crag. A difficult move right gets you onto a pointed block and up to
the point. Step left and climb the easy slabs and on to the next
small outcrop.
A ridge on the right ends at a ledge below much steeper rock, but
follow the ridge round to the right to bypass it. The ledge leads
onto a slab then around an exposed corner to much easier ground.
Now walk back across the stream and up to another outcrop.Start on
the left up steep but rough and grippy rock to a ledge, then right to
more steep climbing and a finish up slabs.
The summit of Red Pike - Dave Mycroft
Keep moving up and right taking on whichever outcrops appeal to
evertually reach an obvious grassydepression. Head left here, keeping
your height, to a steep crag after 600ft. Take the wall in two
stages, aiming for a slabby rib just above half height.
Once up the rib you emerge into an arc of crags with Low Red Pike
on the right, Black Crag on the left and the summit ridge of Red Pike
straight ahead.
Head straight across the flat grass to the far side and the main
crags. The line now remains straight up, or as near as possible, with
the rib and slab leading to scree.
Take the wet gully ahead then move right to the final slab. This
rough slab is probably the most exposed spot on the whole climb but
once past this you're on the summit ridge with the cairn a few steps
away.
Descent From Red Pike you can head back down via Little Scoat
Fell and Wind Gap, or continue round the horseshoe to the Black Sail
path. Alternatively you can get a final bit of scrambling in by
taking on Stirrup Crag and descend via Yewbarrow.
Caution Scrambling is potentially
dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical
skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take
professional instruction or climb with an experienced
partner.
