OM Ultimate Scrambling Guide

Welcome to the OUTDOORSmagic Ultimate Scrambling Guide, where we'll explain the mysteries of scrambling grades, point you in the direction of scrambling courses and explain the technical terms and language you'll need to understand scrambling guidebooks. We'll also tell you where go and what equipment you really need to scramble safely.  

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Scrambling - What is it?
Put simply, scrambling starts when you need to use your hands on a walk. The opposite end of the scale is a little more difficult to define, but ends around the point at which a route becomes a technically-graded climb - though Mod and Dif graded climbs often double up as scrambles, so there is a cross-over area between scrambling and climbing. 

Between the easiest, hands-for-balance, scrambles and low end rock climbs there's a series of grades to express thedifficulty of the route - generally ranging from 1 to 3 with 3S for routes that have particular difficulties beyond the range of grade 3 but don't quite make rock climbing grades. The grades for routes are generally set by consensus, with a few basic rules for allocating specific grades - but being subjective grades are open to debate and revision.

Sharp Edge on Blencathra - A classic Grade 1 scramble

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Getting Started

Many people take their first steps into scrambling without realising, when they start using their hands for balance. Every year thousands of people take Grade 1 routes without realising they're in scrambling territory on classic routes such as Striding Edge or Tryfan. 

You don't need any extra equipment beyond your normal walking kit for these low grade routes, but as you approach the high end grades you'll need to start collecting skills and kit more usually associated with rock climbing. Before you start out it makes sense to understand the grading system, what equipment to use, where to go and how to stay safe.

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Grades

Grading is very subjective, and what's an easy stroll for one person can be a struggle for another, but there's a few basic essentials for defining grades. 

Grade 1
This grade denotes routes where no special mountaineering skills are required and should be within the abilities of any hill walker without need for rope protection. Commonly Grade 1 routes put you on ridges where you'll need a head for heights, but there's no technically difficult moves. Route finding should be straightforward, with alternatives available where difficulties are encountered. You should be able to descend a Grade 1 route without need for rope protection.

Grade 2 A step up from Grade 1 that introduces new difficulties . Commonly using gullies and ridges there may be increased problems with route finding and exposure. Individual moves will involve use of the hands for more than just balance, but should be technically easy. Rope protection is generally not needed, although this will depend on the participant's head for heights and confidence. Grade 2 routes are rarely suitable for an unroped descent route, and you're well advised to get experience on Grade 1 routes before making the step up to Grade 2.

Grade 3

The problems of route finding and/or exposure are noticeably greater than on Grade 2 routes, and rope protection is advisable. Individual sections of a route may include rock climbing moves to Mod  level and commonly include short, roped, pitches. Routes are generally only suitable for descent by including sections of abseiling.

Skills

Scrambles by their nature are in mountain country so you'll need the basic skills required for safe hill walking from the start. You need to be able to navigate accurately so you can follow basic routes, and as you step higher through the grades you'll also need an ability to assess the rock in front of you for the best route. 

Whether Grade 1 or Grade 3S you'll need to be able to handle a degree of exposure - in other words be comfortable with heights and big drops - whether roped or unroped, and be able to assess the suitability of a route for all the members of your party, taking into account weather conditions. As you reach the Grade 2/3 boundary you should start learning basic rope skills for added protection and mountaineering skills like moving in a roped pair.

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Scrambling Equipment

Unlike many outdoor activities there's surpringly little equipment needed to get you going. For a Grade 1 scramble all you need is your basic hill walking kit, a head for heights and a route guide. Once you catch the bug you'll be faced with a whole range of kit  to improve the experience, from scrambling optimised boots to technical climbing hardware. 

Clothing needs to be tougher and more durable for the inevitable contact with rough rock, and you could even be tempted to change your rucksack for something more streamlined and tougher. Don't worry too much about buying specialist kit as you start out, and apart from the technical hardware you'll find most of the scrambling equipment is multi purpose and can be used when not scrambling too.

Above - Roped scrambling on Milestone Buttress, Tryfan. Once you start moving onto Grade 2/3 scrambles you'll need to start taking a look at some rock climbing kit, but that doesn't mean you'll need a full rack of hardware - and you'll find you use a lot more of certain items than others.

Helmets are an essential, with a good lid like the Petzl Elios set to cost you around £35 - you may not think you need a helmet, but remember it's not there just in case you fall and bang your head. One of the greatest dangers when scrambling is getting hit by loose rocks from above, whether walkers/climbers above you or stones your partner may dislodge onto you.

If you're going to need a rope then you're going to need something to attach it to - the days of directly tying on to a rope wrapped around your waist are well gone and you'll need to look at sit harnesses designed for rock climbing or mountaineering. My personal choice is the DMM Alpine, with its extra abrasion resistance and UV resistant flat webbing but any properly fitting approved sit harness should do the job.

With a helmet and harness in place you're free to take advantage of the security a climbing rope and protection offers. Of course you don't need a rope for every person, and they don't come cheap, so this is one item you may find it's best to either share the cost of with a friend or get access to through an organised club.

By the time you need to look at investing in your own personal rope you should know enough about the different lengths, diameters and coatings to make an educated decision, but essentially you'll need a "full" as opposed to "half" rope and preferably one with a "dry" coating which restricts water getting into the rope and increases durability.

Along with a rope you'll need some way of attaching it to the rock to provide protection, this can range from tape slings to climbing "Rocks" or similar - but you don't need the full range carried by most climbers. Due to the nature of scrambling the technical difficulties are limited, although the exposure may be great, and consequently the terrain often offers simple solutions. For most routes you'll want a good selection of slings which can be wrapped around a rock to provide a running belay, and a choice selection of mid to large sized "Nuts" or "Rocks" .  

Next step is a belay device to provide friction and braking on the rope in the case of a fall. The Black Diamond ATC is a popular solution perfectly suited to the job and widely available but other devices like the DMM Bug do essentially the same job and it's down to personal choice.

In addition you'll need the usual outdoor kit of suitable boots/footwear, wet weather gear just in case, and a rucksack to carry it all in. For most scrambling your normal hill footwear will be perfectly adequate but once you start stepping up the grades you may be persuaded into something with stiffened sole and edges for better stability and friction. 

Boots like the Trango S Evo and  Scarpa Cumbre are ideal multi purpose boots suitable for both scrambling and mountaineering, whilst rucksacks like the Haglofs Climber 50, Hot Earth and Lowe AlpineMountain Attack will happily carry your load. As with any other outdoor kit these are just a few of the options available and it's best to choose something that suits you individually in terms of fit and comfort.

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Taking the first steps

The first step in scrambling is to know where you're going and that it's appropriate for your skill, experience and equipment. Most low grade scrambles follow ridge lines or gullys but this doesn't always mean you can just turn up and follow a ridge.

Tryfan's North Ridge may seem obvious enough but if you go off-line to avoid a problem you can soon find yourself way out of your comfort zone and in potentially dangerous surroundings. There's a wide range of books available covering scrambles in Snowdonia,
The Lake District and Scotland from Cicerone, which give complete route guides along with a host of other useful information on descent routes, grading and safety. These guides make an ideal starting point, in combination with your OS map, with routes covering all the grades from the borderline Grade 1s through to the high end Grade 3S routes.

OM also has its own  database of scrambling routes or you can check out the routes on UK Scrambles for further inspiration. Good starter routes, especially if you're not sure of how well you'll handle exposure include Jack's Rake, Striding Edge and Sharp Edge in the Lake District along with Tryfan North Ridge and many of the ridges rising up the Glyders in Snowdonia.

It's worth noting at this point that routes are graded on the assumption of good, dry, conditions and the introduction of wind and wet rock can totally change both the nature and grade of a route.

Striding Edge - probably the most popular scramble in the lake District

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Scrambling Courses

Simply starting on easy scrambles and working your way up patiently will get you used to moving on rock, but once you reach more difficult grades, it's also a good idea to understand the basics of climbing protection and ropework if you want to stay safe. An experienced friend of local club is one way of learning, another is to get professional training.

A good starting point is one of the two National Mountain Centres. Plas y Brenin in North Wales - www.pyb.co.uk - and Glenmore Lodge in Scotland - www.glenmorelodge.org.uk - will both be able to teach you the fundamentals of ropework and safe movement on rock.

Alternatively, you can get individual instruction from a qualified Mountain Guide - www.bmg.org.uk - or Mountain Instruction - www.ami.org.uk. Club together with some mates and you get individual, tailored instruction at a very reasonable cost.

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And Finally.......

Scrambling is fun, but it can also be one of the most dangerous of all mountain sports if you don't take it seriously. Scrambling takes you off the normal hill walkers' paths and provides stunning alternatives away from the crowds (usually), but in doing so it puts you in places where the exposure can be overwhelming if you're not ready for it  and where an unprotected slip can be fatal. 

Watch out for additional problems caused by wet rock and high winds - Sharp Edge, in particular, changes drastically when the rock's wet, and always be prepared to turn around or make alternative plans.

Clogwn Y Person Arete - a classic Grade 3 requiring ropes