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Here's One We Made Earlier...

Bored with the jagged teeth of Crib Goch? Try the Clogwyn y Person arete for a harder but quieter alternative way up Snowdon


Posted: 17 April 2002
by Jon

Crib Goch? Na, done it about 20 times. Bristly Ridge? Ditto. So what's next? Want to push it a bit further, great scrambling on good rock, miss the crowds on the Horseshoe? You'll be wanting the Clogwyn y Person arete then you will.

So what is it? A grade 2 or 3 scramble depending on the exact route you choose which takes you from the relatively remote Cwm Glas on the north side of Snowdon onto Crib y Ddysgl, the broad ridge which is a continuation of Crib Goch and, eventually up to the cafe, sorry, summit. It's arguably the best scramble on Snowdon and I'm not arguing.

The arete in profiled silhouette and
looking vaguely sinister

How hard is it? Depends on who you are and how competent. Steve Ashton's 'Scrambles in Snowdonia' guidebook has some right horrors, but this isn't one of them. Grade 2 and 3 scrambles are definitely more serious than grade 1 stuff like Crib Goch and packing in a rope and basic rack is a good idea.

Getting to it The easiest way in is to park in the layby near the Cromlech on the A4086 (near grid ref: 623570) or hitch a lift, or catch the bus from Llanberis. Cross the river at Blaen y Nant then work your way up the hill following the path. As you get higher you'll see the path to upper Cwm Glas weaving up to the left of the obvious stream.

Follow it up till you emerge pop up into the upper cwm. The arete is the obvious looking thing to your left with a semi-detached nose separated from the main ridge by an obvious slanting gully, which just happens to be one of the two possible starts to the route.

You could also weave a way down from a point on the Pyg Track above Pen y Pas.

In descent For reasons best know to himself, Ashton reckons there are no particular difficulties descending the route. We say bobbins to that, route finding would be decidedly iffy in places and unless you're a competent climber we'd give it a miss.

Doing It...

Blocky but steep high on the crest

The arete's a pretty obvious chunk of rock at about (GR 616 555), less flat than the ground around it and dominating the left skyline when you're in the upper cwm. You get a choice of start, either directly up the nose, which looks kind of necky and necessitates an iffy looking down climb into the gully or directly up the gully itself.

We opted for the latter and it was a nice, dry, ungully-like sort of gully with inviting big holds on the right hand wall that suck you up onto the broad, broken crest of the ridge. If you're an exposure-hating wimp, you might want to rope up before entering the gully and move together with the odd runner - not, not Sebastian Coe.

It's amazingly hard to write route descriptions without resorting to old turnips like: 'The angle soon eases and positive holds appear.' Anyway, up on the broken, jumbly broad, but steepish crest we met some nice folk from Leicester, but they've almost certainly gone by now. A useful aid to route finding, people from Leicester, as we could watch them blunder around then choose the easier option.

If in doubt about the route, just follow people
from Leicester

Once you're up on the ridge proper, you can pick and choose your lines from a mix of little slabby bits with handy cracks, short, steepish walls, though always with good handholds and one or two more challenging options. It tends to move up in steps between flat, decent-sized ledges and, to be honest, there's not much exposure to the sides, though there are places where you'd bounce a fair distance if you took an unrestrained pinger into the blue. The easiest route is windy and devious, but then it usually is, but you can cutu and paste the difficulties according to your mood.

Low down it was cold, cool enough to pull on fleece and shell jacket, but as we emerged blinking into the sun, things warmed up quickly.

Views are brilliant, or at least they were on Saturday. Over to the left you can see the masses picking their way delicatedly along Crib Goch and perhaps one or two dissidents trawling up the alternative north ridge start. To the right you look down into Cwm Glas, which is full of, er, boulders and grass. But perhaps the best views are looking back towards the Glyders, where you can pick out the full expanse of the ridge from just abover Capel at the one end to Y Garn and beyond at the other and, as a bonus, you get an eyefull of the crap, steep stony ascent from hell up Pen yr Ole Wen as it rears up above the Ogwen Cottage tea shack (sadly very out of reach).

Looking back towards the Glyderau and YGarn (left)

But back to the ridge. More blocky steps, lots of good holds but just the occasional blank patch thrown in to keep you on your toes, unsually when you reach over the top of a block desperate for something to pull on. Then one final toe-torquing crack later and it's a plain haul on broken rock and assorted crap up to the main ridgeline. A good time to site back and watch the crawling hordes on Crib Goch before rejoining the human race.

Looking back down the ridge

It's Darwinism really, a little bit of extra difficultly keeps the crowds away, but 30 minutes later on the top I got this quiet smug feeling that I'd maybe worked a little harder to be there than some of the folk around me. But then they had come up by train...

The Descent gives you more options than Milton Keynes has roundabouts. You can trundle down to Pen y Pas, continue round the Horseshoe and over Lliwedd, roll gently down the tourist track into Llanberis, or - and this would be most convenient, if you've left your car near the start - scramble back along Crib Goch and descent the North Ridge back down towards Cwm Glas. Perfect end to a top day.

You Need Standard mountain walking gear plus a pair of stiffish boots - I used a secret weapon, Scarpa's sticky Mescalito (previously El Cap) scrambling boots.

Scarpa's secret weapon - like cheating...

In addition, if you're unsure of your climbing ability, pack a rope, harness and a very basic rack - a few slings, half a dozen rocks and a couple of hexes should be enough to cope with pretty much anything. And throw in a helmet for good measure. A hydration system is a nice luxury, letting you drink on the move.

Oh, and make sure either your legs or your trousers and preferably both, are flexible enough to cope with the odd high step.

In winter This is graded a II/III winter climb and is basically a mixed route which you should be able to get up in most conditions.

Guidebook Scrambles in Snowdonia,by Steve Ashton and published by the Cicerone Press. A book of variable quality and with some strange eccentricities. Treat it as an instrument of mountain darwinism and you won't go too far wrong.

Maps OS Landranger 115, Snowdon (1;50,000), OS Outdoor Leisure 17, Snowdon (1:25,000)

Warning Scrambling can be dangerous, sometimes more so than roped climbing. Don't bite off more than you can chew and don't blame us if you do. Goodnight.

Thanks To Scott, who needs some new batteries...

And it were bloody brilliant...

Crib Goch in the background, Clogwyn y Person in front. Fantastic

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Discuss this story

Not wishing to jump the gun on the no-doubt forthcoming review of the Mescalitos, are they any good? I've been pondering getting a pair for scrambling trips, but they looked like they might be a bit uncomfortable to walk in - and since most scrambling trips in this country seem to involve a fair walk as well, I wasn't sure how good they'd be. Any views ?

P.S. I agree, Clogwyn y Person is a brilliant scramble. The grade 3+ up the middle of llwydd gives it a good run for it's money in terms of situation, but the rock's not as nice and it's a bit hard and contrived.

P.P.S. Surely with all your connections into the gear-supply industry you could blag a new pair of trousers for your partner ? Troll Jesters are Sooo 1980s :-)

Posted: 26/10/2000 at 11:55

The Mescalitos are fantastic - not only are they superb on scrambles and low grade rock climbs, but they're also very comfortable to walk in. Just about the only thing I can't see them being great for is water resistance. Also, I don't know how long the sole will last, but so far, so good. I will put a proper review up in the next day or so and then update it in the light of further abuse.

The Troll Jesters were actually attached to a very nice young lass from Leicester rather than my depleted battery climbing partner, but if she reads this and would like to get in touch, I'll see what I can do... It seems like an act of kindness really...

Cool.

Jon

Posted: 26/10/2000 at 14:45

>...rather than my depleted battery climbing partner...

Your climbing partner is a hen ?


Posted: 26/10/2000 at 15:02

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