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Our Top Five Winter Mountains

How do you eat yours?


Posted: 15 February 2001
by Jon

We love winter here - why? Well let's put it like this, if a mountain was going to go clubbing, it'd lather itself in snow and hang icicles off its eyebrows like mascara. Big hills look better with snow on and that's a fact. One of the reasons Everest looks fundamentally unimpressive is that the daft thing's often as bald as a coot - the world's highest mountain should have snow and that's it. Give me K2 any day.

Anyway, we sat down and had a think and these are our five top winter mountains together with the reasons why:

1. Ben Nevis - 4406 feet

Where is it? Scotland, above Fort William.

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Why? It's the highest mountain in the British Isle, but that's not what makes the Ben special in winter. It's simply an immense chunk of rock on a near alpine scale that scores extra grandeur points when it's topped up with snow. Seen from the back it's a rounded, hunched unimpressive thing, but the classic North Face with its steep rock walls and gullies is something else again.

What? What really makes it though, is the variety. Forget the dull 'Tourist Path', if the weather's clear, take the Carn Mor Dearg arete route. It runs in a giant Striding Edge sort of way directly opposite the North Face giving incredible views and letting you pick out the classic routes - Tower Ridge, NE Buttress etc as you go.

Feeling more adventurous? Ledge Route is a classic summer scramble that turns into a straightforward low grade winter meander up to the summit or the classic Tower Ridge with its intimidating 'Gap'. And if you're dead 'ard? Steep Grade V gullies with serious reputations and scarce protection should keep you happy.

And at the end of the day, the whole mountain's worth of walkers and climbers sort of melts together on the summit before the long slog back down.

Tip Be very, very careful navigating off the summit - it's notoriously easy to wander into Five Finger Gully and remember that in snowy conditions, the Red Burn has been known to avalanche.

Caff Stop? Not a country for soft caffs, the best known Ben stop off is the slightly soulless but dry Nevisport cafe in Fort William. Upstairs from the shop, it's a favoured haunt of rained off and rained out climbers and walkers.

Web Search: click here

Webcam: click here

 

2. An Teallach - 3,484 feet

Where is it? Scotland, the northern bit near Dundonnell. Nearest big town Ullapool a short hop from Inverness.

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Why? Arguably the most impressive mainland ridge in the UK - Skye might be better in summer, but tends not to get the snow - winter transforms it into a serious exposed and slightly scary snow-capped razor ridge that should be on everyone's list of stuff to do.

What? There are some serious winter climbs on the steep faces, but the main reason anyone goes to An Teallach - 'The Forge' - is to traverse the mountain. If you follow the ridge faithfully, you're looking at sections which are graded Difficult in summer rock climbing terms, but there are also paths below the crest in some places if you're a scaredy cat. Highlight of the day is probably stepping up onto the exposed section of ridge at Lord Berkely's Seat. If you don't like heights, don't go there...

Tip Take a rope...

Caff Stop The Dundonnell Hotel is rather handily located at the end of the traverse. It's warm, it's dry and it serves food and beer, which is what you'll want...

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3. Kinder Scout - 2,000 feet-ish

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Where is it? Derbyshire Peak District, nearest towns / villages are Edale and Hayfield (so it's much easier to reach for most people than Scotland)

Why? Yeah, you're scoffing, but on a perfect winter's day, Kinder's peaty plateau is a blast. In fact it's at its best in winter when the boggy ground freezes into concrete-hard waves of dark chocolate. There aren't any mad pointy bits to speak of, but when the wind comes sweeping in, it can feel like a mini-Cairngorms, but without the crazy seriousness.

What? The classic round is the 20-odd mile slog around the edge of the plateau, which has the advantage of making navigation simple, you mainly just follow the edge... But for real escapists, cut loose and get out into the wild, unpathed centre of things for a big helping of wilderness feel less than ten miles away from Manchester. Finally, if there's a must see on Kinder, it has to be the Downfall, an immense waterfall tucked into a craggy corner. Occasionally it freezes well enough for ice climbing, but on really windy days the wind can blow the water back up giving you an incredible view of the water curling and turning in mid air. Look our for the homicidal, scavenging sheep though, it's a favourite picnic spot and they don't understand 'no!' in any form other than a rocket-propelled grenade in their woolly little faces.

Tip People are always getting lost, but there's no real need. Just head for the edge and follow it to safety.

Caff Stop The 20 Trees Cafe in Hayfield - not the closest but a civilised source of post-walk snacks, drinks and Sunday newspapers in the heart of Hayfield. Walkers and mountain bikers welcomed.

Web Search: click here

 

4. Snowdon - 3,560 feet

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Where is it? Snowdonia of course.

Why? Like the Ben, Snowdon is a 'proper big mountain' with a load of options to choose from and a pointy bit at the top so you can feel you've climbed something real, not like, er, well, Kinder really. In winter it ups the sartorial ante a stage further and if you're lucky you might not even notice the godawful caff thing on the summit.

What? Another something for everyone sort of mountain. You can approach Snowdon from more angles than, well, a lot of angles anyway - the Pyg, Miners, Llanberis and Watkin Path to name four walking routes, but the winter pick is the Snowdon Horseshoe, though under snow it's a graded winter climb and you need to know what you're about with ropes, axes and crampons. And if that's not enough, take a look at some of the winter climbs: the Clogwyn y Person arete makes an interesting winter mixed route, I'm told, and the Trident Face is lined with amenable gullies.

Tip On the knife edge ridge of Crib Goch, don't mess around detouring round the pinnacles. It's actually safer and easier to climb them direct and stay on the crest of the ridge.

Caff Stop There's a caff at the Pen y Pas car park, but for real atmosphere, huge mugs of tea and big plates of fantastic grub you want Pete's Eats, the legendary climbers' foul weather bolt hole in Llanberis. Check out their new web site.

Web Search: click here

Webcam: click here

 

5. Scafell - not particularly high

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Where is it? The Lake District, next to Scafell Pike and above Wasdale, which is a pretty good reason for going there in itself.

Why? Well, we've had enough ridges so far, so that writes off Helvellyn with Striding and Swirral Edge and its mainly straighforward gully climbs and the exposed but short arete of Sharp Edge on Blencathra and, let's face it, Scafell Pike is actually just a pile of rubble. Scafell though has one neat redeeming winter feature and gives you an excuse to stay in Wasdale as well. What do we mean? Lords Rake and the West Wall Traverse, a pair of straightforward summer scrambles become an easy but wintry way up in winter when the rake holds snow like a gully. All the ambience with little of the seriousness.

If you want seriousness, then climb up from Mickledore onto the polished little corner of Broad Stand, the scene of numerous accidents over the years and well worth missing, but for a safer and sneakier descent, pop round the back and descend the cunning path at the back via Fox Tarn.

Tip Give Broad Stand a miss. It looks okay on the map, but is seriously polished.

Caff Stop Not quite a caff, but you've got to go to the Wasdale Head Inn - a total classic to the extent that in summer it's often quicker to reach the loos by climbing through a window rather than fighting through the bar. In winter it's quieter and a tempting beacon of warmth, food and that intoxicating pubbish beery fug. Brilliant.

Web Search: click here


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