We love winter here - why? Well let's put it like this, if a
mountain was going to go clubbing, it'd lather itself in snow and
hang icicles off its eyebrows like mascara. Big hills look better
with snow on and that's a fact. One of the reasons Everest looks
fundamentally unimpressive is that the daft thing's often as bald as
a coot - the world's highest mountain should have snow and
that's it. Give me K2 any day.
Anyway, we sat down and had a think and these are our five top
winter mountains together with the reasons why:
Where is it? Scotland, above Fort William.
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Why? It's the highest mountain in the British Isle, but
that's not what makes the Ben special in winter. It's simply an
immense chunk of rock on a near alpine scale that scores extra
grandeur points when it's topped up with snow. Seen from the back
it's a rounded, hunched unimpressive thing, but the classic North
Face with its steep rock walls and gullies is something else
again.
What? What really makes it though, is the variety. Forget
the dull 'Tourist Path', if the weather's clear, take the Carn Mor
Dearg arete route. It runs in a giant Striding Edge sort of way
directly opposite the North Face giving incredible views and letting
you pick out the classic routes - Tower Ridge, NE Buttress etc as you
go.
Feeling more adventurous? Ledge Route is a classic summer scramble
that turns into a straightforward low grade winter meander up to the
summit or the classic Tower Ridge with its intimidating 'Gap'. And if
you're dead 'ard? Steep Grade V gullies with serious reputations and
scarce protection should keep you happy.
And at the end of the day, the whole mountain's worth of walkers
and climbers sort of melts together on the summit before the long
slog back down.
Tip Be very, very careful navigating off the summit - it's
notoriously easy to wander into Five Finger Gully and remember that
in snowy conditions, the Red Burn has been known to avalanche.
Caff Stop? Not a country for soft caffs, the best known Ben
stop off is the slightly soulless but dry Nevisport cafe in Fort
William. Upstairs from the shop, it's a favoured haunt of rained off
and rained out climbers and walkers.
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2. An Teallach - 3,484 feet
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Where is it? Scotland, the northern bit near Dundonnell.
Nearest big town Ullapool a short hop from Inverness.
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for location map
Why? Arguably the most impressive mainland ridge in the UK
- Skye might be better in summer, but tends not to get the snow -
winter transforms it into a serious exposed and slightly scary
snow-capped razor ridge that should be on everyone's list of stuff to
do.
What? There are some serious winter climbs on the steep
faces, but the main reason anyone goes to An Teallach - 'The Forge' -
is to traverse the mountain. If you follow the ridge faithfully,
you're looking at sections which are graded Difficult in summer rock
climbing terms, but there are also paths below the crest in some
places if you're a scaredy cat. Highlight of the day is probably
stepping up onto the exposed section of ridge at Lord Berkely's Seat.
If you don't like heights, don't go there...
Tip Take a rope...
Caff Stop The Dundonnell
Hotel is rather handily located at the end of the traverse. It's
warm, it's dry and it serves food and beer, which is what you'll
want...
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3. Kinder Scout - 2,000 feet-ish
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for location map
Where is it? Derbyshire Peak District, nearest towns /
villages are Edale and Hayfield (so it's much easier to reach for
most people than Scotland)
Why? Yeah, you're scoffing, but on a perfect winter's day,
Kinder's peaty plateau is a blast. In fact it's at its best in winter
when the boggy ground freezes into concrete-hard waves of dark
chocolate. There aren't any mad pointy bits to speak of, but when the
wind comes sweeping in, it can feel like a mini-Cairngorms, but
without the crazy seriousness.
What? The classic round is the 20-odd mile slog around the
edge of the plateau, which has the advantage of making navigation
simple, you mainly just follow the edge... But for real escapists,
cut loose and get out into the wild, unpathed centre of things for a
big helping of wilderness feel less than ten miles away from
Manchester. Finally, if there's a must see on Kinder, it has to be
the Downfall, an immense waterfall tucked into a craggy corner.
Occasionally it freezes well enough for ice climbing, but on really
windy days the wind can blow the water back up giving you an
incredible view of the water curling and turning in mid air. Look our
for the homicidal, scavenging sheep though, it's a favourite picnic
spot and they don't understand 'no!' in any form other than a
rocket-propelled grenade in their woolly little faces.
Tip People are always getting lost, but there's no real
need. Just head for the edge and follow it to safety.
Caff Stop The 20 Trees Cafe in Hayfield - not the closest
but a civilised source of post-walk snacks, drinks and Sunday
newspapers in the heart of Hayfield. Walkers and mountain bikers
welcomed.
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for location map
Where is it? Snowdonia of course.
Why? Like the Ben, Snowdon is a 'proper big mountain' with
a load of options to choose from and a pointy bit at the top so you
can feel you've climbed something real, not like, er, well, Kinder
really. In winter it ups the sartorial ante a stage further and if
you're lucky you might not even notice the godawful caff thing on the
summit.
What? Another something for everyone sort of mountain. You
can approach Snowdon from more angles than, well, a lot of angles
anyway - the Pyg, Miners, Llanberis and Watkin Path to name four
walking routes, but the winter pick is the Snowdon Horseshoe, though
under snow it's a graded winter climb and you need to know what
you're about with ropes, axes and crampons. And if that's not enough,
take a look at some of the winter climbs: the Clogwyn y Person arete
makes an interesting winter mixed route, I'm told, and the Trident
Face is lined with amenable gullies.
Tip On the knife edge ridge of Crib Goch, don't mess around
detouring round the pinnacles. It's actually safer and easier to
climb them direct and stay on the crest of the ridge.
Caff Stop There's a caff at the Pen y Pas car park, but for
real atmosphere, huge mugs of tea and big plates of fantastic grub
you want Pete's Eats, the legendary climbers' foul weather bolt hole
in Llanberis. Check out their new web
site.
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5. Scafell - not particularly high
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Where is it? The Lake District, next to Scafell Pike and
above Wasdale, which is a pretty good reason for going there in
itself.
Why? Well, we've had enough ridges so far, so that writes
off Helvellyn with Striding and Swirral Edge and its mainly
straighforward gully climbs and the exposed but short arete of Sharp
Edge on Blencathra and, let's face it, Scafell Pike is actually just
a pile of rubble. Scafell though has one neat redeeming winter
feature and gives you an excuse to stay in Wasdale as well. What do
we mean? Lords Rake and the West Wall Traverse, a pair of
straightforward summer scrambles become an easy but wintry way up in
winter when the rake holds snow like a gully. All the ambience with
little of the seriousness.
If you want seriousness, then climb up from Mickledore onto the
polished little corner of Broad Stand, the scene of numerous
accidents over the years and well worth missing, but for a safer and
sneakier descent, pop round the back and descend the cunning path at
the back via Fox Tarn.
Tip Give Broad Stand a miss. It looks okay on the map, but
is seriously polished.
Caff Stop Not quite a caff, but you've got to go to the
Wasdale Head Inn - a total classic to the extent that in summer it's
often quicker to reach the loos by climbing through a window rather
than fighting through the bar. In winter it's quieter and a tempting
beacon of warmth, food and that intoxicating pubbish beery fug.
Brilliant.
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