Film maker Alastair Lee's top five climbing films of all time kicks off a new OM regular.
Welcome to a new regular, irregular feature on the site -
Outside Now! It's
a chance to find out what people in the outdoors world think about the
big issues, small issues. non issues and well, just what they think.
To kick it off, multi award-winning climbing film maker
Alastair Lee takes
us through his top five climbing films of all time - you never know,
one might even make an excellent Christmas gift surprise too. Over to
you, Al :-)

Being
a maker of climbing films, naturally, I can’t stand
them! In that I’m too close to the subject matter and the way
its produced to possibly just sit down and watch a climbing film and
take it at face value. I tend to sit there thinking the editing could
be tighter, climbing is so boring to watch and oh boy, who chose this
music! However poor music, lack of production values, story or
genuinely gripping footage aside here are five climbing dvds I did make
it to the end of!
5. Stone Monkey/Indian
Face – Although now over 20 years old this dvd
is a classic and a must see. The filming and production is competent
and still holds together well however the real wizard behind this magic
is the one and only Johnny Dawes, they just don’t make like
that anymore. Johnny was a one off in the climbing world, not only the
style in which he climbs but his complex philosophy on the subject is
unrivalled. The film itself is perhaps the most profound in the genre,
nothing else has really come close to getting to the bottom of why on
earth an individual would climb. Poignant, spectacular and some of the
best ‘real time’ climbing you’ll see in
the cumulative scene as Johnny climbs the outrageous Quarryman.
The Indian Face documentary on the same dvd is also superb covering as
it does the original battle for the ascent of the Indian Face on Cloggy
between legends John Redhead - they don’t make
‘em like him anymore either!) and Johnny Dawes, Fascination
and historically a very important film with the perfect voice over from
Jim Perin.
4. Touching the Void
– Okay hard to compare this to your average non-budget
climbing dvd but worthy for a mention in that for a big budget film
about climbing it actually gets it right and doesn’t end up
as an accidental mockumentary. Narrative being everything in film (or
so some think) you can’t go far wrong with one of the
greatest tales of survival ever told. This adaptation of Joe
Simpson’s best seller lived upto the precedent delivering
stunning cinematography with a beautifully paced narrative that draws
you in and keep you hooked right to the end, and that’s when
you know what’s going to happen before you get anywhere near
the cinema. Be warned though you may never go mountaineering again!
3. Hard Grit -
Now 10 years old and although starting to look a little dated is still
hard to beat and stands out a classic. Captured the Brit pop era of
British Gritstone climbing in the late 1990’s with an all
star cast most of whom were in there prime. Although many of the routes
in the film are now being soloed and climbed in much better style
- ground up or flashed - you can’t take away from
the gripping atmosphere throughout the film that what we are seeing is
very dangerous and a slice of climbing history. From the harrowing
opening scene of what happens if you fall off Gaia from the crux to Seb
Grieve vocalising his internal dialogue as he shakes his way up Meshuga
almost every scene in this film is as strong as the last, which in
climbing is very difficult to pull off.
2. First Ascent
– Pete Mortimer completely raised the bar with this film from
2006 where his two more recent films ‘King Lines’
and most recently ‘The Sharp End’ have continued in
a similar vain. Simply amazing camera work and spectacular action
combined with an unbelievable array of climbing stars in international
locations. Helicopters, boom shots massive falls its all in there, add
Pete’s superb post-production and you really can’t
go wrong. Might be a bit ‘American’ for some
tastes, I’m sure when these guys get to heaven’s
gates, God will be like ‘yeah that was good but did you have
to shout about it so much?’ Send it dude…. well
stick it in your dvd player anyway.
1. Parollelajams (Return
2 Sender) US producer Pete Mortimer hogs the top two,
second up is his classic from 2005 from the dvd ‘Return 2
Sender’. Although the dvd contains a collection of films,
including the delights of Biscuit the dog climbing many boulder
problems and some amazing BASE jumping before everyman and his, well
camera, started jumping off things, filming it and calling it a film.
The stand out act is the climbing film
‘Paralellojams’ set in Utah’s
crack climbing paradise Indian Creek.
Not only does this film showcase Pete’s trademark production,
IE brilliant camerawork, editing and music its hilariously funny as US
funny man Timmy O’Neil fronts the film in his inimitable
style, we also get to learn about the subtleties of crack climbing and
to see some of the most spectacular climbing action you’ll
ever witness. The final ground up sequence as the team attempt to grab
the second ascent of a Tommy Caldwell’s classic is total
heart in your mouth stuff. There’s a lot of reasons why this
film is my fave, maybe its because when I saw it I was just getting
going with my own climbing films and it had a big impact on me, its
also just got this spirit and focus about it that’s hard to
quantify.
Alastair Lee is a
multi-award winning film maker, with his latest, On Sight, taking two
prizes, including the Grand Prize for best overall film at this year's
Kendal Mountain Festival. You can find out more and indeed buy his own
DVDs and others - like the above - at
www.posingproductions.com