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The Dark Side Of Kinder...

A two-day backpack that's sort of 'Kinder by the Edges' in a more gentle form complete with pictures and route description


Posted: 16 April 2003
by Jon

Easy Two-Day Backpack: Glossop-Edale-Glossop - approx 30 km / 19 miles

Day one: Start from Glossop, follow the A624 towards Hayfield till you pass Gnat Hole farm then take the minor road on the left. At the bend, take the footpath leading up towards Harry Hut (GR 045 907). Map.

From Harry Hut - trig point - follow the unmarked but obvious path SE to join the main paved path heading up towards Mill Hill (062 905) where there's an obvious path junction and pole. Map. From here head for Kinder and up the very obvious stepped path onto Ashop Head, Kinder.

Easy walking along the edge to Kinder Downfall (085 889). Map. From the downfall continue along the edge till you reach the trig point at Kinder Low from where you head eastwards towards the distinctive rock formation.

Keep going round the edge till you drop sharply down to cross Crowden Brook (095 873) carry on along the edge. After approximately 1 km you'll reach the top of Grinds Brook, a nasty, loose, rocky descent. If you're feeling tired, head down here into Edale.

If you're still full of beans, carry on round and instead, drop down over the obvious rocks of Ringing Roger then down to Edale via the path that goes over The Nab (125 866). Map.

Edale makes an obvious place to stop. Two pubs, several b and bs, two campsites, a caff, railway station and great views.

Day two: Retrace your steps back up towards Kinder then head up the signposted path to The Nab before following the rocky way up Ringing Roger and back onto the Plateau. From here take a bearing and walk to the trig point (129 878). At this point the plateau is very narrow so you can see the far side in good conditions.

Head west and follow the edge on the back side of Kinder past cliffs, rock formations and views of the A57 Snake Pass road. Mad scenery. Just keep going.

Eventually you'll reach the point at Ashop Head where you originally climbed onto the plateau. From here you can either retrace your steps into Glossop or follow the Pennine Way path across to the top of the Snake Pass and cross the A57. (088 929). Map.

After 500 metres you can turn left and follow the Doctor's Gate bridleway back down into Old Glossop or continue along the Pennine Way and descent via Yellowslacks or even down into Crowden and back along the flat and rather dull Longdendale Trail.

Terrain Peaty country, but most of this route is on good, well defined paths, even on Kinder. The exceptions are the bit between Harry Hut and the Mill Hill path and crossing the plateau above Edale, where things can get squelchy in winter.


Kinder Edges Backpack

Kinder might be a plateau, okay, it is a plateau, but the majority of people never venture onto the dark side that looks out over Black Ashop Moor and the tiny cars and screaming motorcycles of the Snake Pass.

Instead they stay rooted to the 'popular side' with spectacular Kinder Downfall and easy access from Hayfield and Edale. The whole point of this route is contrast, the popular stuff on day one, the bleak, quasi-wilderness and weird rocks on the far edges on day two. It's pretty close to being a two-day take on the classic Kinder by the Edges circuit, but less arduous and frenzied.


Hazy Glossop views on a Saturday morning, note chimney...

We set off from Glossop late with the familiar climb onto Harry Hut and its views back over the town complete with token smoking industrial chimnies. Across onto the main paved path and gently up towards Mill Hill passing one of the areas many air crash sites on the left.
The crash site below Mill Hill

From Mill Hill, the end of Kinder looms spectacularly and the last real climb of the day takes you up onto the plateau with its rolling edge and rounded gritstone boulders. Loads of people too, up from Hayfield and Edale, trying the Pennine Way with big sacks and bright eyes or just soaking in the views.
Ashop Head from Mill Hill, plateau looming...

The highlight of the day is the huge waterfall at Kinder Downfall, well, huge when it's wet. Last weekend it was bone dry with folk picnicking at its base. A bit of an old mate, I've seen it with the water turned in mid air by the wind and literally blowing straight back up, skittered across it caked in ice and, like now, a desert arid mix of rock and dust. But it's almost always busy and, right on cue, around 30 walkers appeared on the skyline.

You're never alone on the popular side of the big hill

But you can always look the other way...

From here it's rolling, easy walking along the edge to the trig point on Kinder Low then from there past a couple of huge rock formations and along above Edale with a choice of drop-off points to reach shelter and beer.
Mystery rocks beyond Kinder Low and heading for Edale

After a mere 11 hours sleep, it's worth hitting the trail early to miss the crowds. Climbing gently back onto the plateau and over the rocky vertebrae of Ringing Roger I saw, no-one. Which was a pretty appropriate start to a gently mellow day.
Early morning haze looking up the Grindsbrook path from the Nab

The plateau's narrow at this point, but the other side, the dark side of Kinder, is like a different world, especially when you have it to yourself. There's a sense of scale and space you don't often get in the Peak, bleak moors running away towards the Snake Pass and, in your path, towering, twisted rock formations.
Rocks... Sheep ... Rocks

It's the kind of deeply mad, desolately beautiful place where you want to be either alone or with someone you know well enough to simply be silent with. I met three other walkers coming towards me and there was almost a tacit apology in our greetings, for being in someone else's landscape. It really is spectacular and, compared to the popular front of the hill, very quiet.

Big country, big features - space...

Hitting the crowds again at Ashop Head's a bit of a shocker, from here I dropped back down into Glossop to watch Arsenal put Sheffield Utd out of the cup, but you could easily extend the walk via the Snake Pass and either down Doctor's Gate or over Bleaklow.

HA bit of a tortoise this one, or is it a turtle?

And lots of pristine, lonely, desolate edge to walk before I wake
And one last set of rocks for luck.

Alternative Return

For a different take, you could always walk to Edale via the back side of Kinder, but then return a completely different way. From Edale walk up the opposite side of the valley to Hollins Cross, then follow the oath over Mam Tor, along Rushup Edge and drop down the rocky track at the end.

When you hit the road, follow the path across towards Mount Famine via Roych Clough (currently closed for restoration but due to re-open soon) then follow paths back to Glossop via Hayfield and Lantern Pike.


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