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Army Surrenders On Everest

The British Army team on the difficult West Ridge of Everest has reluctantly abandoned its attempt thanks to avalanche-prone slopes high on the mountain.


Posted: 23 May 2006
by Jon

The British Army team on the West Ridge of Everest has admitted defeat after encountering avalanche-prone slopes high on the route.

In the light of the conditions in the Hornbein Couloir, the expedition has opted not to make another summit bid. Expedition leader Dave Bunting says:

"The conditions high up in the Hornbein Couloir are unlikely to change and there is still a very high risk of avalanche. Due to the altitude of the Couloir at 8000m the conditions are unlikely to change and therefore the high risk of avalanche will remain.  To make the Couloir safe we need the area to avalanche or wait for a considerable change in the conditions.

'I have discussed the conditions at length with the Deputy Leader Dave Wilson and Climbing Leader John Doyle.  I have taken the difficult decision not to go for a second attempt. Knowing what I know now, I am not prepared to risk any of the lives in my team.

'As climbers, we accept that there is always an element of risk but our Army training, judgement and decision making mitigate that risk. In this case I am not prepared to risk the lives of the climbers [and my friends] by sending them back up into the Hornbein Couloir which could avalanche at any time.'

Bunting goes on to thank the army, friends and family and the team's supporters and sponsors.

In A Siege Stylee...

It's a disappointing end to a colossal attempt on a difficult route. If the team had managed to summit, they would have been the first Brits to succeed on the West Ridge.

In many ways the expedition seemed like a throwback to the days of Bonington, siege-style ascents of the mountain with successive camps on the mountain being stocked by teams of climbers to manouevre a chosen summit team into position.

The tactics are arguably those best suited to the military with their focus on organisation and logistics and also fit in with their aim of using the expedition as a promotional exercise via their extraordinarily detailed and content-rich web site. Whether a civilian team would have opted for a riskier, alpine-style attempt or a lightweight push for the summit, possibly via an alternative route, we'll never know.

The site at www.armyoneverest.mod.uk is definitely worth a browse with some interesting video content, a great Google Earth fly through and blogs and pics live from the mountain.

Tough luck guys.


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