Bonington Slams Double Rope Bureaucrats

Sir Chris Bonington has spoken out over bizarre HSE proposals to force climbing instructors to use double ropes at all times calling the proposals 'extraordinary'...


Posted: 19 August 2003
by Jon

Sir Chris Bonington has spoken out against a recent HSE (Health and Safety Executive) proposal insisting that double ropes always be used for climbing instruction.

Writing in today's Guardian G2 section, Bonington comments: 'The climbing community believed sense would prevail in the EUs directive Temporary Work at Height'. It hasn't'. This is despite the HSE visiting the National Outdoor Centre at Plas y Brenin in North Wales and consulting leading mountaineering experts.

Britain's best known climber and unofficial media spokesperson for the sport, continues to point out that while double-rope use is the norm on multipitch routes in the UK, it's not necessarily the best practice when instructing beginners on small crags where it can be slower and more complicated than using a single rope.

He emphasises that 'experienced instructors' should be allowed to make their own decisions based on specific situations rather than being constrained by a set of rigid rules.

At the root of the problem, says Bonington, is the desire of the bureaucrats to 'bundle safety regulations for two different activities into a single package' - the proposed regulations are intended to apply both to climbing and vertical-access work on building sites. Mad. Quite mad.

You can read Bonington's full article here.

For a fuller explanation of the HSE initiative, see this story in the Telegraph


Previous article
Still Time To Enter OMM Icelandic
Next article
Nominate Your Fave Hill Caff - Win Tea And Cake...
TwitterStumbleUponFacebookDiggRedditGoogle


Discuss this story

Had this emailed to me. It's from yesterdays Telegraph Online. What ever next?

HSE has no head for heights

Because of a bizarre decision by the Health and Safety Executive - that a European Union directive designed to promote safety on building sites must be applied to rock climbers - British mountaineers will have to endanger their lives by fixing two separate ropes up rock faces instead of one. It will also be necessary to fix safety notices on mountains to warn climbers when they are approaching icy or snow-covered surfaces.

For two years Britain's leading climbing and mountaineering organisations have pleaded in vain with the HSE that the "Working at Heights" directive, 2001/45, laying down safety rules for working with ladders and ropes, was never intended to cover outdoor activities such as rock-climbing and caving, to which it is wholly inappropriate. In all other EU countries, such as France, Germany and Austria, this was taken for granted. Only in the UK have the authorities insisted that the directive, designed to promote safety on building sites and for workers such as window cleaners, should also apply to recreations such as rockclimbing, whenever a professional is involved, for example as a guide or instructor.

Among the experts who advised the HSE on the directive were Iain Peter of the National Mountain Centre in North Wales, John Cousins of the United Kingdom Mountain Training Board, and Marcus Bailie, the head of inspection at the Adventure Activity Licensing Authority. They pointed out that when climbers use a rope they do not climb up the rope itself but the rock face. The single rope is only needed as a safety device should they fall off. The directive's requirement that a second rope must be fixed alongside the first would therefore not only be unnecessary but dangerous. Climbers would have to waste effort carrying and installing a heavy second rope which is irrelevant to their safety.

Initially these experts, who formed the HSE's Adventure Activity Industry Advisory Committee, were under the impression that the people they were advising had grasped the points they were making. To their astonishment, when the draft regulations were published, it was obvious that the officials had disregarded everything they had been told - to the extent that they insist on the erection of warning notices when climbers must cross "fragile or brittle surfaces", such as snowfields and icy rock.

What particularly incenses these professional bodies is that they are acknowledged as experts on mountain safety all over the world, which was why the HSE originally invited them to sit on its advisory committee. Yet now that the HSE has persisted in issuing regulations which, as Mr Bailie puts it, "would constitute a reduction in safety standards", the committee is to be dissolved. It seems our safety officials no longer need advice, despite being laughed at by the rest of Europe for devising an application of the directive that they alone could have been crazy enough to conceive.

Posted: 18/08/2003 at 16:25

Surely only using two ropes is taking it too light-hearted. Maybe a ladder, or better still some scaffolding would make things safer. Additionally, a huge inflatable mattress should be positioned underneath.

As for the climbing surface, I've seen some rock that looked really dangerous, so maybe someone could chisel huge holds into the surface, or maybe a nice set of steps.

Did I miss anything?

Posted: 18/08/2003 at 16:54

I expect they will make it illegal to climb anything that isn't bolted next.

Posted: 18/08/2003 at 17:30

See more comments...
Talkback: Bonington Slams Double Rope Bureaucrats



Sign up to our weekly newsletter
Sign up to our twitter feed

Promotions