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Everest Rescue Causes Ripples

Rescue of Nepali woman climber at 8300 metres re-ignites ethical debate.


Posted: 29 May 2007
by Jon

It says something about the whole Everest circus that the rescue of a near dead Nepalese woman climber high on the mountain last week has caused only minor ripples outside the specialist mountaineering media.

Usha Bista, a 22 year -old climber from Nepal was reportedly abandoned by her own team after collapsing at about 8300 metres on the mountain. Thankfully she was found by Canadian climber Meagan McGrath who initiated a successful rescue with other climbers and a team of British doctors on a medical research expedition who managed to treat her cerebral oedema - swelling of the brain caused by altitude.

According to the Guardian, the leader of the British expedition believes that scenarios like this are due to under-resourced expeditions with insufficient oxygen. Ms Bista apparently had only one bottle with her, not enough for a summit attempt.

Rescue Impossible?

The question of rescues high on Everest is one that appears on an annual basis and is particularly emotive. One argument often advanced is that rescue high in the death zone is near impossible, with climbers stretched to their limits merely to stay alive themselves. It's a standpoint that's often viewed as a convenient fiction for climbers who fear a disruption to their own summit attempts.

When British climber David Sharp was abandoned high on the mountain last year, it was this argument that was trotted out. Yet there are several precedents for rescues high on Everest. OUTDOORSmagic member Conan Harrod was helped down the mountain a few years ago after having been struck by a falling climber and breaking a leg.

The Bista rescue too shows that in the right circumstances, it is possible to rescue even semi-conscious climbers, however she was fortunate in being helped by experienced high altitude climbers like veteran US guide David Hahn and in the prescence of the British medical expedition on the mountain. Hahn is quoted in the Times as saying that he didn't think she'd survive, despite him giving up his own oxygen during the rescue.

Is there a 'right answer'? Morally it has to be unquestionable that you should do whatever you can to help a fellow climber in distress high on a mountain. Of course it's easy to write that sitting at sea level, but surely anyone considering attempting Everest should have considered the possible scenarios and their moral and practical stanc should the worst happen.

More details at www.guardian.co.uk / www.timesonline.co.uk / news.bbc.co.uk /


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It is getting scary, the weight of self-justifying crap that allows humanlife to be worth less than a tick in a guidebook.

The late Ed Hillary spotted this potential trend years ago.


Posted: 12/02/2008 at 21:55

Russell Brice - the guide for the Discovery Channel's Deadliest Climb program - has an interesting and moving account here of some of his experiences on Everest including rescuing other teams' climbers.  I can't believe that some of the people that pull themselves up the fixed rope won't even pay towards the Sherpas that put it there for them, then expect rescued.

Posted: 12/02/2008 at 22:59

There was going on a while back ago now, more evidence of such rather generalised human meanness and anti-social type unpleasantness on Everest; as it has got to be more popular to get to, and within more easy budget reach for more and more people, from all different and in particular non-outdoorsy social backgrounds, from the whole globe over. As famously revealed in the Everest memoirs of big Brian Blessed-bet they had to keep getting him to whisper that big booming actor's voice of his to prevent causing avalanches further up the mountain there-there were some rather bad types of anti-social people about in the base camp areas particularly there back then even too. People going into other groups tents and stealing food ration supplies and kit, as well as just plain barging in unannounced into other expeditions private tents expecting to be served tea and food, as if it were some kind of a restaurant at the top end of the world or something!

As Blessed I think commented disbelievingly at the time, there was rubbish from people everywhere, and a great lack of general respect for the locals or other expedition travellers; indeed being openly shown by large nunmbers of visiting individuals. It seemed then to be an unusually sad common experience at Everest basecamp at the foot of the mountain. Indeed I saw a few years back ago on tv a good program, trying to tackle similar problems there, where an expedition actually went to everest just to try to clear away the mountain of rubbish that had been left all around the bottom of the mountain by all the expeditions and other visitors there over the many years. They found discarded food cans and old bottles and litter that was up to thirty or more years old in many instances. As well as food packaging left dumped there by the many different travellers, that had originated you could easily tell-from the language wording on the packs and cans labels-just from literally all over this whole huge world of ours! A great shame indeed that people have to ruin things for other individuals, other generations, and the local population too. All just by momentary careless thoughtfulness, and inconsiderately awful uncaring attitudes to both other people and places alike. It is for this same kind of reason of course, why in the USA the very great "Leave No Trace" philosopy of wilderness lore has had to be developed of lately too; to try to protect America's own wilderness places from such bad behaviour by the minority of uncaring individual visitors. To try also therin too as best as can be done so, to ensure generations as yet unborn to come after us can too enjoy such unspoilt wilderness lands areas. Amen to that!


Posted: 13/02/2008 at 09:15

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