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Mount Asgard Climbed

Leo Houlding and his team have succeeded on Asgard despite horrendous conditions.


Posted: 1 September 2009
by Jon/Al Lee

Leo Houlding and his team have succeeded in climbing Mount Asgard on Baffin Island after 12 days of climbing in the shade for 23 hours a day, enduring sub-zero temperatures and weathering severe ice storms.

Asgard, the final pitch

The final pitch, looks, erm, chilly no?

Here's the final despatch from Alastair Lee who's film of the expedition is scheduled to premiere at the Kendal Mountain Festival this year:

Success! After 12 days of suffering in sub zero temperatures, in the shade 23 hours a day and weathering severe ice storms we succeeding in getting Al, Chris, Jas, Stanley and Leo to the top of the wall. The harsh conditions and incredibly steep blank nature of the rock only allowed us to free half the route but given the situation and time of year (the summer is short up here it is now autumn) we are over the moon that we made it to the top. It has been brutal thank god we all had the right kit otherwise frost-nip and hyperthermia would have had us by now.

Mount Asgard is named after the realm of the Norsk gods. It feels like those gods having been toying with us the whole time. After a savage ice storm that left 4cm of haw frost on all the ropes and brought the first discussions of retreat we were treated to an insane display of the northern lights and enough fine weather to finish the route. On the summit a snowy owl swooped right by to check us out. A positive sign. On the final stage of the rappell the gods sent us off with 10 cm of snow. The wall is now unclimbable. Asgard allowed us to the top but by the skin of our teeth.

Mount Asgard summit photo, Leo Houlding and partner

Houlding (left) on the summit.

It has been such a hard experience for all of us and we are physically and psychologically exhausted. My hands are in pieces just unzipping my sleeping bag is agony. Can't wait to get back to civilization. Haven't showered for a month and we've had our fill of freeze-dried rations. Thankfully we still have enough fresh coffee and chocolate for the 30 mile hike out of here.

Our back packs are huge, at least 30 kg each. After two days of dragging barrells and haul bags we are now down at Summit lake shelter and finally off the glacier that has been home for the last month. Much nicer down here - enjoying sun and sleeping on sand instead of ice.

Though destroyed and surviving on on painkillers and anti-inflamatories we're all in good spirits. Just another three days of hard hiking to go. The river crossings that were waist deep ragging torrents on the way up are now trickles we can boulder hop across without removing boots. SO ready to get out of here! Can almost taste the fresh food and beer.

More information at www.theasgardproject.com

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Discuss this story

Unless I've misunderstood, I thought the original plan was for Leo to re-climb the route and then basejump off. Evidently, conditions have been far too unforgiving for that but I hope they don't feel any less pleased with the achievement. Even existing there sounds seriously tough to me.

Looking forward to the film...


Posted: 01/09/2009 at 17:44

30kg carry out each - love it!

Posted: 01/09/2009 at 21:31

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