Icebreaker Baselayers - First Look

We test three different weights of Icebreaker's excellent merino wool fabric - two base and one mid-layer top and ask how it matches up to the synthetic competition.


Posted: 26 April 2005
by Jon

Icebreaker Skin 200 / Body Fit 260 / Sport 320 - First Impressions


We wouldn't normally bundle three tops together, but in this case it make a certain amount of sense as we're testing the merino wool fabric as much as the design of the garments. We've been using three different weights of garment from New Zealand brand Icebreaker for about six weeks now - enough to tell you how they perform, but not quite long enough to have a clear idea of longterm durability, so bear in mind that this is an initial look and we'll try to run a follow-up test in a few months time.
The Concept Most base-layer garments are made from synthetic fabrics, basically byproducts of the petro-chemical industry, or plastic, if you want to be cynical. Merino wool, on the other hand, comes from merino sheep.

What makes merino wool different from standard issue sheepy wool is that the individual fibres are much finer. That means none of the itchiness that many people experience with wool and a soft luxurious feel next to the skin. On top of that, Icebreaker has a whole list of merino pluses including breathability, insulation, fire-retardent qualities, temperature regulation, a warm feel when wet, and odour resistance.

So, we're talking what's claimed to be a viable alternative to synthetic baselayer fabrics.


Skin 2000 Oasis Crew

Price: £40

Weight: 220 grammes (men's medium)

Features: Skin 2000 lightweight merino fabric, long sleeves, crew neck, flat-lock seams, seamless shoulders.


The Skin 2000 fabric is Icebreaker's lightweight, all-season, next to skin fabric. It's 25 per-cent lighter than the Bodyfit 260 mid-weight bodywear and has a nice, light feel to it. The Oasis crew is a simple long-sleeved crew neck top but the same fabric is also available as a simple tee-shirt design or as a long-sleeved zip-neck, the format we prefer .


Bodyfit 260 Tech Top

Price: £65

Weight: 370 grammes (men's medium)

Features: Bodyfit 260 merino fabric, long sleeves, zip-neck with collar, seamless shoulders, thumb-holes.


Bodyfit 260 is Icebreaker's heavier grade baselayer, some 25 per-cent more weight than the Skin 2000 ands it feels reassuringly chunky, ideal for winter or cooler weather use. The Tech Top comes with a zipped neck opening, collar and thumb-holes in the cuffs to stop the sleeves rising up when reaching high or just reaching out. Like the Oasis Crew, the shoulders are seamless to avoid any chaffing from pack straps.

Sport 320 Coronet

Price: £100

Weight: 470 grammes (men's medium)

Features: Sport 320 mid-layer merino fabric, zip-neck, funky contrast striping on outer sleeves and shoulders, thumb-holes in cuff.


The Sport 320 fabric is a mid-weight material intended to be layered over the lighter Icebreaker baselayers for added insulation. It's basically a heavier, thicker zip-neck top, but the Coronet we're testing has super funky contrasting striping down the outside of the sleeves and shoulders. It also gets the same thumbholes as the Tech Top. Icebreaker say it's designed for 'cool to freezing' temperatures and low bulk also makes it a good travel garment.
In Action We'll talk about the different garments individually in a moment, but first some general observations about merino wool. The first thing we'd say is that it's a real 'feel good' fabric, both physically and emotionally. It is lovely and soft next to the skin, particularly in warmer conditions when synthetics can feel nasty and plastic. It's also simply nice to know that you're wearing a natural fabric that's come from a renewable sheepy resource rather than a refinery.

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All of which is fine, but useless if the fabric doesn't perform. Well the good news is that it does, really well. There are lots of things we really like about merino. It feels comfortable against the skin hot or cold, wet or dry and does a neat trick of feeling warm in cold weather, but still being comfortable when everything goes scorchio.

It also has fantastic anti-odour properties. We found we could wear it for several days without nasty pongs developing, which is great for multi-day trips and travelling, or simply if you're lazy. It's machine washable too, unlike most conventional wool which has to be handwashed.

Are there any downsides? As far as we can see, the only area where merino loses out to synthetics - though durability may be another - is in moisture management. The best lightweight synthetics, Berghaus's Xstatic Powerdry for example, wick noticeably better than even the lightweight merino, which definitely holds more moisture and takes longer to dry. The good news is that damp merino still feels comfortable and wool's exothermic properties - it generates heat when wet - means that you miss out on that damp, cold sensation, so it's not a major problem unless you sweat like a Turkish wrestler in a sauna.

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As far as the individual garments go, predictably the lightest weight Oasis Crew worked best for high tempo activities and in warmer conditions and, becauser of the thinner fabric, wicked more effectively than the heavier Tech Top. Ideally we'd use it in zip-neck, long-sleeved guise for more versatility and some sun protection for the back of the neck.

The Tech Top uses a thicker fabric and is a great winter baselayer that still feels comfortable when the going gets hot. We like having the zip-neck for ventilation, but the collar is on the generous side and while it offers great protection when zipped up, it's a bit floppy when the neck is open. We weren't particularly bothered with the thumb-holes, but the big plus is that they're unobbtrusive enough that they aren't at all bulky and annoying when the sleeves are worn normally under a shell or midlayer. We're not sure if regular use of the thumb loops wouldn't cause accelerated wear in that area of the cuff however.

Last but not least, the mid-layer weight Sport 320 Coronet is the loveliest thing we've tested since the Arc'Teryx MX Gamma Hoody. It simply looks and feels fantatic and we've been living in it for weeks now. The styling is spot on with a really funky, erm, contemporary look to it. It's almost too lovely to wear on the hill...

In purely practical terms, we'd have to admit that microfleece beats it for warmth to weight ratio and handles moisture and dries faster too, but the Coronet has that feel good factor in spades.


Verdict


The first thing we'd say is that we think merino is great - it's natural, comfortable hot or cold, wet ofr dry, and it doesn't pong. It's not hard to care for either, being machine washable, and - tip - Icebreaker suggest that for the first wash you throw in a pair of jeans with it to remove short fibres, soften it even further and help prevent pilling.

The best synthetics do handle moisture better - they wick faster and dry more quickly - but merino still feels comfortable even when it's damp, so any downside is minimised. On the mid-layer side of things, we have to admit that, although we love the Coronet top, a standard microfleece is much cheaper and arguably performs as well or better, though it'll smell more in the process. Then again, it lacks merino's feel good factor and the Coronet's great look.

Which leaves the price - 65 quid is a lot to pay for a baselayer top and the £100 price tag on the Coronet is also steep, even if it does reflect the amount of work that's gone into the detailing - we comepared it to a functionally similar, but much cheaper Aldi merino top for reference. Of course, value is a very personal judgement and if you can afford Icebreaker, we don't think you'll be disappointed based on our experiences so far. Very, very nice.


Icebreaker web site


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Merino tops seem expensive on the initial outlay, but I've never worn by Dryflo synthetics since buying one, so its more expensive, but you'll only need one...

Posted: 26/04/2005 at 17:41

You'd think, but "I need a spare for going away" is too easy to say.
And online shopping? you don't even see the money.
They take a lot of abuse though, and you can't get a comfier base layer.

Posted: 26/04/2005 at 17:45

I've got an Icebreaker Chakra zip, and I love it. I wear it for walking and running, and it *really* doesn't get smelly (best not ask me how I'm sure...). I'd like another one, though, just in case something happens to the first one! My HHs are a festering at the bottom of the drawer, now.

Posted: 26/04/2005 at 18:20

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