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Mountain Equipment Matrix - First Look

Our first take on Mountain Equipment's new super lightweight alpine shell that combines Gore-Tex Paclite and XCR for a combination of lightness, breathability and toughness.


Posted: 29 October 2004
by Jon

ME Matrix Jacket - First Look

Price: £200.00

Weight: 457 grammes (men's medium)

Features: Gore-Tex Paclite fabric combined with Gore-Tex Ascender 3-ply in high wear areas, narrow laminated center inner and outer flaps, twin external pockets with water-resistant zips, map pocket and sleeve pocket, Stelath hood with hidden one-pull adjusters and laminated peak, concealed and tethered waist and hem drawcords, half-waist cord gives a flat front. Also available as the women's specific 'Trinity' jacket.

Light, compact, breathable, nicely cut and designed.
Where's the fleece chin guard eh?


The Concept Gore's Paclite is light and very breathable, more breathable than XCR, but not really intended for hardcore climbing use - though we've found it tougher than you might think.

To make it more suitable for serious mountain use, ME has combined the lightweight Paclite fabric with panels of tougher, more abrasion resistant but heavier and less breathable, Gore-Tex XCR in a full-on technical jacket. The idea is to produce a garment that gives the lightness and breathability of Paclite, but has some of the toughness of XCR making it suitable for 'alpine routes and expeditions'.

Weight, if you were wondering, is about 60 grammes more than ME' sPaclite Firefly which shares a similar cut. Price is £20 more.


Features The clever use of fabrics is the jacket's trump card, but ME hasn't been marking time on the technical design of its jackets either and the Matrix comes completely loaded - reloaded? - with a full arsenal of technical tricks.

The ME hood has always been an OM benchmark for ease of use and turnability - it moves perfectly with your head - and the uprated, helmet-happy, Stealth Hood is no exception either with or without a lid. A new laminated peak is reassuringly stiff and well shaped too. Another ME touch is the waist's half-coard which pulls the front of the jacket flat for easy downwards vision and neat fit.

Pocket zips are water-resistant with sealed pocket bags keeping the water away from you regardless and micro cuff tabs keep your wrists sealed without creating bulk, all nice. The conventional main zip also gets a double storm flap - one inside and one outside - with the flaps being laminated to keep things safe and sealed.

The spec's not quite the same as the one in ME's work book which lists vents and a fleece chin guard, but then the jacket weighed a whole 20 grammes less...


In Action This really is a first look based on just a couple of outings, so we can't really tell you about the durability aspects of the jacket, what we can confirm is that the breathability is good and the XCR panels don't seem to effect it to a noticeable degree. Aesthetically, the two Gore fabrics are the same colour and the only real visual difference is that the XCR has a larger microgrid rip-stop pattern. Anoraks, us?

Fit, as we've come to expect from ME is excellent. It doesn't feel as svelte and tailored as, say, an Arc'teryx shell when you first put it on, but the neat half adjustment cord at the waist pulls any excess fabric round to the back leaving a clean, neat front and pulling the whole jacket in for a close, efficient fit. Cuffs and hem stay put during high reaches with or without a pack or harness and the large chest pockets are positioned well above waist belt line.

The hood's just as good as ever working well with or without a lid. It's easy to adjust and the upper shock cord grips the top of your head like a hat meaning that the whole hood turns with your head for all round visibility. The new laminated peak feels sturdy and dependable and the hidden front adjuster cords are a nice touch.

Last year's Changabang was had so much lamination up front that the whole jacket felt a bit stiff as a result, in contrast the twin laminated zip flaps of the Matrix have a much lighter touch and the added stiffness keeps them in place guarding the zip as well as making zipping and unzipping easier.

We're not sure what happened to the front vents in the original spec, but so far, thanks to the breathability of the Paclite, we've not really missed them. It' s nice to see adequate pocketage on a lightweight jacket, particilularly useful if you've dumped your pack for a summit push, and there's even a map pocket that'll take an OS map easily.


Verdict

As usual ME's technical features and cut are up there with the best in the business and the combination of Paclite and XCR produces a full on mountain jacket with a medium length and helmet-friendly hood that weighs in at a mere 450 grammes. To put that in perspective, the lightest XCR jacket we're aware of, the new Lowe Alpine Ice Light, tips the scales at 508 grammes.

It's not going to be as durable as a full XCR shell jacket, but lightweight freaks searching for every lost gramme will welcome the XCR panels as insurance against premature failure. Those panels by the way, are inside the shoulders, around butt and hips and on the inside of the arms mainly to cope with the abrasive impact of pack carrying. The forearm is reinforced too, for happy rock rubbing.

So far it looks like a great combination of features and lightness for the weight conscious. We'll be doing our best to kick the cack out of it over the winter and let you know how it gets on in due course.


Mountain Equipment Web Site



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