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Rab Suilven Jacket - First Look

We check out Rab's new for this winter, bombproof mountaineering jacket. Just the job for the frozen apocalypse that is full-on Scottish winter mountaineering we reckon.


Posted: 9 November 2006
by Jon

Rab Suilven Jacket - First Look

Price: £230

Weight: 670 grammes (medium)

Features: Winter walking and mountaineering jacket in three-ply eVENT fabric, roll-down, helmet-compatible wired hood, twin outer pockets with water-resistant zips, map pocket behind double storm flap, pocket drainage system, lumbar drawcord, internal security pocket, articulated cuffs, cut to layer over insulation clothing, adjustable cuffs and hem.


What's It For? Think bombproof winter mountaineering jacket - the Suilven's aimed at climbers and walkers who put their jacket through hell and want to be certain it'll last. That includes guides, instructors and people who habitually tote whopping great packs around with them while smearing themselves relentlessly against abrasive sandstone. It's cut large to accommodate extra insulation layers to cope with the cold as well.
The Techy Bits There's nothing massively innovative about the Suilven, but then that's the point of it. Everything's belt and braces, tried and trusted stuff, so you get a proper double storm flap over the main zip, tethered hood adjustment cords and hem cords, a gurt big hood with wired peak and lots of adjustment so it works with and without a helmet and so on.

What really makes it stand out is the fabric. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first really bombproof eVENT jacket on the market, so you're getting better breathability than other conventional waterproof fabrics with the icing on the cake being a super tough Taslan-type fabric on main wear areas like the outsides of the sleeves, hips and base of the back and shoulders. In the pics it's the black fabric.


How It Works We've only used the Suilven a couple of times so far and that in half-decent conditions, so we'll reserve final judgement until we've had the chance to try it in the sort of cataclysmic Scottish winter conditions it's intended for.

So far though it's been immensely reassuring. It's a bit like being out on the town with your huge, 20-stone, rugby-playing mate - nothing is going to touch you. The fabric, particularly the heavy duty reinforcement, feels massively tough and bombproof. The hood is cavernous, but adjusts down to be comfy without a helmet and moves neatly with your head thanks to an adjustable cord that grips the top of your skull.

Double storm-flapped zip is reassuring and the cords are all neatly tethered and tucked away. Like we said, nothing radical, but all very workmanlike and reassuring.

Cut is looser and longer than Rab's Latok which allows you to layer a mid-weight fleece underneath and still have room to breathe, useful in full-on winter conditions, but with a pack and harness in place, it stays neat, helped by the half waist cord which runs around the back of the jacket only and is operated through the pockets. Lots of those, pockets that is, and placed so they're fully useable with pack or harness on as well.

We do have a few minor quibbles: there's a bit of stiffness to the chin area when the hood's cinched down not helped by the use of a big metal, belts and braces, pop stud, the zipper garages on the pockets are slightly too small for the zip pulls fitted and we'd expect wear on the waist cord channel with time as it rucks up the fabric and creates ridges and high points, though only experience will tell with that one. That's it really; quibbles rather than major flaws.


Initial Verdict


So far the Suilven seems to be what it says on the box - a balance of breathability and protection with belt and braces reassurance coming as standard.

It really does feel bombproof and should appeal to anyone who wants the increased breathability of eVENT fabric married to the sort of tough materials and proven construction that should shrug off regular hard use.

We reckon this is a cracking winter jacket and at a real life 670 grammes on the OM scales, you're not paying a huge weight penalty for it. Good kit if toughness matters more than saving the odd couple of hundred grammes.


Rab web site


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Bit slow to pick up on this one, but don't the Suilven & Latok Guide look pretty similar?
Both have the reinforced areas, water resistant double chest pockets etc... Sure there plenty of minor differences though.

Posted: 08/12/2006 at 12:17

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